Put your railroad cap on - buy and install a new battery - then see what's up!!!
 
My headlight bub is a 35W Hella.

Std main lamp bulb is an H4 55/60 - the aux lights are 35
Are you saying you replaced the main bulb with a 35W? ???

Current from main light goes via the key-switch - aux lamps current does not

Regardless - 35 or 55 - either way that is not a great current load on the stock switch
However it may have a mechanical problem
The switch has the top half (mechanical lock assembly) bolted to the bottom half (electrical switch);
these are coupled together with shear bolts
It is possible either the shear bolts have come loose or there is something else wrong with the mechanical part, especially if it 'feels' funny.
 
Std main lamp bulb is an H4 55/60 - the aux lights are 35
Are you saying you replaced the main bulb with a 35W? ???

Current from main light goes via the key-switch - aux lamps current does not

Regardless - 35 or 55 - either way that is not a great current load on the stock switch
However it may have a mechanical problem
The switch has the top half (mechanical lock assembly) bolted to the bottom half (electrical switch);
these are coupled together with shear bolts
It is possible either the shear bolts have come loose or there is something else wrong with the mechanical part, especially if it 'feels' funny.

Decosse, when it failed the first time, which was about 2 weeks ago, the 2 auxillary lights did not come on (neither did the headlight) when I turned the key. I always keep my 2 auxillary lights on so they immediately come on whenever the ignition is turned on. Does that mean the culprit is the battery or battery ground or a mechanical problem in the switch?
 
DO YOU HAVE A VOLT METER?
do you know how to use a volt meter?
 
You can pick up a basic multimeter for 5-10 bucks. Well worth it for this kind of thing considering the cost. If you basically just need a basic volt meter which will serve fine on a bike, you can go with the $5. Obviously we're talking cheap trash but it should serve fine to show volts or no volts. :)

 
You can pick up a basic multimeter for 5-10 bucks. Well worth it for this kind of thing considering the cost. If you basically just need a basic volt meter which will serve fine on a bike, you can go with the $5. Obviously we're talking cheap trash but it should serve fine to show volts or no volts. :)


I have high dollar and cheap multimeters from my TV and Audio repair days, but this little unit from Radio Shack is great and super compact as a carry along unit. The Optimate battery/alternator tester I have shown is also a useful item I keep around at home. Maybe not a true load tester for a battery, but a quick indicator of your battery and charging status under actual starting and operating conditions.
 

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My money's firmly on the connector block under the tank. If it happens again try moving the bars firmly from side to side. This puts pressure on that block and can make things work at least intermittently. The quick fix for that is to bridge the block with one (if you can identify which one) wire or all wires. If you can find a burnt, even slightly brown, terminal inside the block, that's your culprit. My quick fix has become a permanent fixture........

I also suggest you wear your engineers cap while doing this. Looking badass is important when trying to fix electrical issues. ;)
 
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