2011 R3T Completely Dead

[DEcosse]

It is most unlikely to be a relay
For the lights to be off, it would have to be the starter/headlight relay and that would have zero impact to the ignition circuit being on or off, nor the turns. horn etc
Reciprocally the EMS relay is not going to affect the lights
Fuel Pump Relay not a factor in lights either but of course will not be on if ignition circuit not on

 

[cr0ft]

Yeah I suppose if it's stone dead... hm.

 

[TURBO200R4]

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE VENTILATION let it run for about 20 minutes shut it off and let set for a few minutes (to let the heat rise) then turn on the key a few times to see if you get the problem. if it acts up then you can leave the key alone and check brakes lights and use your voltmeter to find the problem.

 

[dobro]

I'm reaching on this possibility but the second occasion it failed it seemed like there was less friction inside the key cylinder than usual each time I turned the key. The key freely turned everytime but it vaguely seemed to be turning TOO freely. When it suddenly lit up I was so darn happy I didn't note whether it felt like there was more friction that time. Does that make any sense?

 

[Bedifferent]

Intermittent issues are always a pain to solve. They show their ugly heads at the worse possible times. The good thing is.....if it is dead and stays dead, you have a good chance of finding the problem. Having worked with electric and electronic circuits I would suggest you stay with the DEcosse suggestions. Always work from the simple to the more complex when troubleshooting.

Good luck and I am waiting to hear what the problem was so I can add it to my growing list of unusual problems and solutions I have found here on the forum.

 

[Bedifferent]

I'm reaching on this possibility but the second occasion it failed it seemed like there was less friction inside the key cylinder than usual each time I turned the key. The key freely turned everytime but it vaguely seemed to be turning TOO freely. When it suddenly lit up I was so darn happy I didn't note whether it felt like there was more friction that time. Does that make any sense?

I would suggest you make up an ignition bypass (found here on the forum) and see if the bike fires up. Fairly simple to make (if you have some skills) and implement in the fuse box. That will help rule the switch in or out.

 

[DEcosse]

I would suggest you make up an ignition bypass....

That was what I described in my 'needle-nose-pliers' test above

 

[TURBO200R4]

I'm reaching on this possibility but the second occasion it failed it seemed like there was less friction inside the key cylinder than usual each time I turned the key. The key freely turned everytime but it vaguely seemed to be turning TOO freely. When it suddenly lit up I was so darn happy I didn't note whether it felt like there was more friction that time. Does that make any sense?

makes a lot of sense if the switch is messed up.

 

[dobro]

makes a lot of sense if the switch is messed up.

Can that be repaired or must the cylinder be replaced?

 

[dobro]

I had tried to explain that ........
There are three switched circuits in the key-switch
Two have a common input source - the headlights and the ignition circuit;
the third - Turns/Horn/Brake light has an independent power source; (it's like having two separate switches ganged together mechanically)
If NONE of these is working it would be unlikely to be the switch and a fundamental power connection at the battery
If the lights AND Ignition OFF but the third circuit works then very likely the switch itself (or the connector plug).

Edit - quick question - are you running a stock headlight bulb? (the main headlight)
Or do you have a 100W bulb in there?
(previous dismissal of key-switch failure with Touring more applicable to stock 55/60 bulb and all bets off if you have high wattage bulb)

Again, suggest you at least uncouple the key-switch connector (especially if only the lights/ignition are the problem) and look for any signs of arcing/burning at the terminals

(ignore top half of this - picture just to show the Key-switch connector

Link Removed

My headlight bub is a 35W Hella.