2011 R3T Completely Dead

[dobro]

It sounds more like a grounding problem. I replaced the negative battery cable with a bigger gauge wire and also installed a secondary starter relay. Completely solved the problem.

tdragger, if the contacts on each end of the neg battery cable are clean why would it become insufficient after 4 years of use? My bike is a 2011 and I never had this problem till 2 weeks ago.

 

[DEcosse]

So this is a follow-on to this thread

Can't see this being the Key-Switch on a Touring Model (never say never however)
But there is clearly some intermittent connection somewhere.

Can you clarify the symptoms again please:

... when I turned key --no sign of life at all....

Are you saying absolutely nothing, nada zilch - no headlight, instrument lights, fuel pump prime etc?
Do you know for sure whether headlight was not on?
Turn signals, horn, brake light not working
i.e. turning the key was if you had done nothing?
Or just that there was no instrument indication and it wouldn't crank?

Whether or not EVERYTHING was out, or just the ignition-related circuits put the possibilities into different areas to look.
(you may not have specifically looked for this but if happens again check to see if headlight on and whether your turns or horn works - that will be big help in determining, either way)

You could at least inspect the connector for the key-switch - uncouple it & look for any sign of burning in either set of contacts

 

[TURBO200R4]

are you using English fuses or American fuses

your best way of testing it is to get your self a volt meter and run a volt test.
if it is working run your test and write down every fuse number that has about 12 volts.
when it is not working write down every thing that has 12 volts and then compare them.
if you find a difference then we can help you out.
DEcosse has a good thread on volt meter.

 

[dobro]

So this is a follow-on to this thread

Can't see this being the Key-Switch on a Touring Model (never say never however)
But there is clearly some intermittent connection somewhere.

Can you clarify the symptoms again please:



Are you saying absolutely nothing, nada zilch - no headlight, instrument lights, fuel pump prime etc?
Do you know for sure whether headlight was not on?
Turn signals, horn, brake light not working
i.e. turning the key was if you had done nothing?
Or just that there was no instrument indication and it wouldn't crank?

Whether or not EVERYTHING was out, or just the ignition-related circuits put the possibilities into different areas to look.
(you may not have specifically looked for this but if happens again check to see if headlight on and whether your turns or horn works - that will be big help in determining, either way)

You could at least inspect the connector for the key-switch - uncouple it & look for any sign of burning in either set of contacts

Decosse, I know for sure during both failures the headlight/driving lights switches were turned on and were not emitting any light. The instrument lights on the speedo did not come on and the fuel pump did not prime. The starter made no sound. I don't know whether the turn signals, horn or brake lights were working either time. The first time this happened, which was about 2 weeks ago, my bike had been sitting in the garage for a couple of days when I tried to start it. After I cleaned the battery terminals/connectors and ecm relay I drove it several times w/o any problems. The second failure occurred yesterday. I'd driven for about 15 minutes then stopped for 20 min. and tried to re-start it.

 

[Ygransom]

How old is your battery? My 2008 R3T wouldn't restart at gas station after about a 10 minute ride. Since the battery was 4 years old dropped in a new one - fired right up and no problems since. Seems the ECU is very sensative to voltage and jsut quits if to low.

 

[DEcosse]

Decosse, I know for sure during both failures the headlight/driving lights switches were turned on and were not emitting any light. ....

That alone should have not pointed you towards the EMS relay per your original thread

So if ALL circuits truly are being affected, it kinda puts you into the primary power connections to either the battery or the key-switch.
When you get the issue you need to check for power at Fuse #2, then at Fuses 5 & 9 (and check your horn)
If you get 12V at both sides of Fuse 2 but NOT at Fuses 5 & 9 problem is at key-switch
Especially if horn works, it says no power into the primary connection of the switch (white wire into switch) - the horn, turns & stop lamp get power through a different supply, from Fuse 4 and the White/Black wire into a separate pole on the switch)
If horn does not work either, that says you are losing connection fundamentally which points more likely to the battery connection or possibly even broken post internally (and could be either on the positive OR the negative)

 

[dobro]

That alone should have not pointed you towards the EMS relay per your original thread

So if ALL circuits truly are being affected, it kinda puts you into the primary power connections to either the battery or the key-switch.
When you get the issue you need to check for power at Fuse #2, then at Fuses 5 & 9 (and check your horn)
If you get 12V at both sides of Fuse 2 but NOT at Fuses 5 & 9 problem is at key-switch
Especially if horn works, it says no power into the primary connection of the switch (white wire into switch) - the horn, turns & stop lamp get power through a different supply, from Fuse 4 and the White/Black wire into a separate pole on the switch)
If horn does not work either, that says you are losing connection fundamentally which points more likely to the battery connection or possibly even broken post internally (and could be either on the positive OR the negative)

Thanks very much, Decosse. I won't be riding this bike until I think the problem is probably fixed so if I wait until it won't start in my garage I could be waiting for a month or more. I want to check out the key switch now. What can I do to rule it out while the bike is not failing to start?

 

[DEcosse]

... What can I do to rule it out while the bike is not failing to start?

I had tried to explain that ........
There are three switched circuits in the key-switch
Two have a common input source - the headlights and the ignition circuit;
the third - Turns/Horn/Brake light has an independent power source; (it's like having two separate switches ganged together mechanically)
If NONE of these is working it would be unlikely to be the switch and a fundamental power connection at the battery
If the lights AND Ignition OFF but the third circuit works then very likely the switch itself (or the connector plug).

Edit - quick question - are you running a stock headlight bulb? (the main headlight)
Or do you have a 100W bulb in there?
(previous dismissal of key-switch failure with Touring more applicable to stock 55/60 bulb and all bets off if you have high wattage bulb)

Again, suggest you at least uncouple the key-switch connector (especially if only the lights/ignition are the problem) and look for any signs of arcing/burning at the terminals

(ignore top half of this - picture just to show the Key-switch connector

Link Removed

 

[DEcosse]

Here's a super quick & dirty test you can do if you have the problem and especially if the turns/horn/brake is working.
Turn key on - you get nothing - DON"T MESS WITH IT SO IT REMAINS IN THIS STATE;
Access the Fuse Panel;
take pair of needle-nose pliers and bridge between Fuses 2 & 5 by touching the metal tabs at tops of fuses with the pliers - ignition should come on.
(or you can bridge to Fuse 9 and watch lights come on)
Remove pliers - does ignition go off again?
Problem at the switch.
If you get no reaction from the bridge then fundamental power connection of battery.

 

[cr0ft]

I have to say I'm a bit skeptical too about a grounding issue. It seems like a bit too simple a fault, unless the cable is actually loose in the attachment point to the engine or something and rattling around there and only connecting intermittently...

Since @DEcosse has already given some really constructive suggestions I'll just go off on wild speculation.

Aren't the three relays on the left side the same? If so, try pulling them all and shifting them all one step to the right (or left). Purely speculative here, but - turning the bike on/off/on/off and then eventually getting it to activate could, possibly, maybe be because the relay only reacted on try number 10. Heck, buy three new relays and install those to guarantee it's not that, they're what, 5 bucks a pop or something? As I said, just speculating more or less wildly here, but if the loss of a specific relay can cause the bike to be stone dead then replacing it just on suspicion might be a thought.