Widow maker journey to the 200hp club

[Kevin frazier]

Congratulations, very consistent. What plugs are you using, and heat range?

i put oem plugs back in today after testing, the 7’s will keep an eye on this, will maybe have to go to 8’s , will see

 

[Gerald]

i put oem plugs back in today after testing, the 7’s will keep an eye on this, will maybe have to go to 8’s , will see

Thanks, I'm going to start with 8's

 

[Kevin frazier]

Do the forks bottom out when you brake hard? How much travel is left after you sit on the bike (have someone measure the sag when you sit on the bike (what was it and what is and add this to the amount of sag without you (lift front end with jack and measure fully extended and then again with the bike on its wheels sitting vertically.) If you have 5" travel in total you should have 3.5 to 4" left with you on the bike. If you have less than this add spring spacers to raise the bike. If it still bottoms when hitting the brakes or when hitting a bump, you need stiffer springs.

speedy I recieved my springs from race tech and for now the oil they recommended with the setup I have, gold emulators snd there 1.1 springs, 15wt spectro. I did not pull forks I just evactuated, emptied compressed tube, so not completely empty this time, with the bike going to kickstand with no rider it sags 19mm then when I sit on it the best I can lean over steady and mark and come up with 24mm additional sag so with me on bike about 43mm total saga, then when I get brake while shoving I get 45mm travel there’s still at least 20mm to bottom out. it returns nicely, it seems like it is going to acknowledge every bump but handle well. I will report and I hope these sag numbers are helpful so you get an idea of what it’s doing, thanks for looking

 

[Speedy]

Kevin, You might need spring spacers yet. If you are 20mm from bottoming on braking you will hit bottom on bumps. I would put a 12 to 13 mm (7/16 to 1/2") spring spacer in those forks. How much sag do you have in the rear shocks? How close to bottoming out (put a zip tie on the shaft for a travel indicator) are the rear shocks?

 

[Kevin frazier]

Kevin, You might need spring spacers yet. If you are 20mm from bottoming on braking you will hit bottom on bumps. I would put a 12 to 13 mm (7/16 to 1/2") spring spacer in those forks. How much sag do you have in the rear shocks? How close to bottoming out (put a zip tie on the shaft for a travel indicator) are the rear shocks?

I will go for a ride and test I could be off on the 20mm to bottoming out I didn’t mark (doh) for fully compressed so I had to guess at that number, on the rear about 1in sag when I mount up and the rear doesn’t bottom out plenty of adjustment in the 13.5in shock from ikon, it has 4 preload and 4 rebound settings made for my weight and riding style, it’s setup pretty stiff. I will try to get some help so I can be more accurate but I will go test and report. I will pop off caps and get the bottom mark when I return, sorry I should have last night just a blunder I know it’s impossible to help with a guess measurement for that. I’ll get it,

 

[Kevin frazier]

Kevin, You might need spring spacers yet. If you are 20mm from bottoming on braking you will hit bottom on bumps. I would put a 12 to 13 mm (7/16 to 1/2") spring spacer in those forks. How much sag do you have in the rear shocks? How close to bottoming out (put a zip tie on the shaft for a travel indicator) are the rear shocks?

Speedy I just did the shakedown on the work I did last night and the forks don’t bottom out, feels great, coming through first gear accidentally twisted at about 25 and the front end came up and landed very good. I’m pretty happy with it, I’m sure you could in person dial it in even more with the emulator and air gap but it’s very good now to me compared to stock springs or progressive, hope to run into you this summer somewhere and maybe you could eyeball it for me in person, thanks speedy

 

[Kevin frazier]

speedy after reading your post again and again I knew something wont right, so I dug in again, and the spacers resting all unladen they rest level with top edge of triple clamp where cap tightens too so that is 15mm preload, pushing on spring from beginning of tightening cap. So like that the front end set lower and travel was short which you nailed, and it was pulling up on rear unbalanced, so I cut 2 new spacers .75 longer a little above the .5 you said may be needed, figured I could take .25 off if needed, now I have 1 1/8 sag with me on and 4.75 in of travel, now the top part of the fork tubes lift more and the rear also is better, on the kick stand handle bars turned left normal resting the rear is 1/4 higher than front. I’m gonna go test this and hope I can give better feedback, guess my mix up on spacers explains numbers you pointed out wouldn’t work. My shocks don’t have an infinite threaded tube to dial in preload so they got to go. I am at 1in sag when Im on, you cannot lift my rear the spring pushes bike up to stop when on kickstand unladen and at any pre load, rebound adjust 1 for lightest and 4 for big girl on back, thanks man appreciate your feedback,

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Kevin, Have you been to the dyno yet ?

 

[Kevin frazier]

Not yet, waiting on a pipe that doesnt have a 1/4in drop down at header to muffler connection. It’s on the way a lms piece and I have another surprise coming from the Viking, lms pipe will go to jet hot for coating to match header and then to The dyno, the dyno man said wait on correct pipe and the Neville lush tune is SPOT on, amazing tuner Mr. Lush is bike has never ran this clean smooth. the dyno man is not gonna have to adjust much. @rainman rode it, he didn’t gas it or anything but he said quiet intake, smooth but maybe he will comment on engine no kind of back fire popping zero anywhere in range in any gear, I’m real happy with it but dyno will be the end of this thread and it’s RoadTrip time.

 

[rainman]

Not yet, waiting on a pipe that doesnt have a 1/4in drop down at header to muffler connection. It’s on the way a lms piece and I have another surprise coming from the Viking, lms pipe will go to jet hot for coating to match header and then to The dyno, the dyno man said wait on correct pipe and the Neville lush tune is SPOT on, amazing tuner Mr. Lush is bike has never ran this clean smooth. the dyno man is not gonna have to adjust much. @rainman rode it, he didn’t gas it or anything but he said quiet intake, smooth but maybe he will comment on engine no kind of back fire popping zero anywhere in range in any gear, I’m real happy with it but dyno will be the end of this thread and it’s RoadTrip time.

It ride real good and the ram air is a lot quieter than mine
I gas it a little it was smooth