Where is the dang Starter relay on the R3T?!?

[BigNorm]

Sorry I totally screwed that up, misread both the post and the repair manual!!! I need to wear my glasses more often. Carry on!!

That being what it is. I learned something.

 

[Boog]

OK - that comment made me back up to your initial post ....





I had 'keyed' (no pun intended) on the starter not running since you called it a "starting issue"
Now with these comments - is there really NOTHING happens when you turn on the key?
i.e. is simply starter not operating or do you not get power at all?

When you turn key on
Does Headlight come on?
Does Instrument panel light up?
Does brake light or horn work?

This can help guide where the problem lies.
One thing is to look at the key-switch connector - there have been a couple of incidences of the main input power terminal (from the while/blue wire) burning up.

No power at all to anything now. Turning the key does nothing, no lights anywhere

 

[DEcosse]

No power at all to anything now. Turning the key does nothing, no lights anywhere

Absolutely nothing? Did you try the horn or brake light?
That is important - different problem depending on whether that circuit works .... or not.
If the horn/turns work, then problem possibly at the key-switch connector
If they do NOT work, it puts you back at the battery

So regardless, nothing to do with starter relay anyway

Do you have a meter? Can you measure the battery voltage?
You are confident there is no poor connection of the battery terminals, completely tight?
Also check Fuse 11 - make sure that fuse is whole and there is no problem with a poor fit into the fuse holder.

Can you take a look at that main key-switch connector - disconnect and inspect the terminals on both halves - we do not want to see any sign of burning or arcing, blackness of any kind!

p.s. Do you have ANY non-std electrical equipment/accessories on your bike?
Or different bulb in the OEM headlight? (e.g. high wattage)

 

[Joesmoe]

@Boog I know how frustrating this can be. Do you need me to stop to help with trouble shooting ? I have some time this weekend.

 

[Boog]

Absolutely nothing? Did you try the horn or brake light?
That is important - different problem depending on whether that circuit works .... or not.
If the horn/turns work, then problem possibly at the key-switch connector
If they do NOT work, it puts you back at the battery

So regardless, nothing to do with starter relay anyway

Do you have a meter? Can you measure the battery voltage?
You are confident there is no poor connection of the battery terminals, completely tight?
Also check Fuse 11 - make sure that fuse is whole and there is no problem with a poor fit into the fuse holder.

Can you take a look at that main key-switch connector - disconnect and inspect the terminals on both halves - we do not want to see any sign of burning or arcing, blackness of any kind!

p.s. Do you have ANY non-std electrical equipment/accessories on your bike?
Or different bulb in the OEM headlight? (e.g. high wattage)

At the moment, nothing happens at all when the key is on. No horn or any lights on dash or brake.
After work today, I will take the batteries to the local AutoZone and have them checked. I do not have a voltmeter.
I will check the connection you mention here and will begin a deep cleaning tonight.
The bike has OEM lights all around. I have disconnected my GPS lead and heated gear leads. The only lead on the battery now is a new charger cord. The tossed the original one due to corrosion at the distill end. The battery end seemed clean but the end out side had become bad.
The battery connection were as tight as I could get them, I tried without the charger lead to just to make sure the charger leads were not the issue, no difference.
All fuses are intact.
After reading your post, I think the key switch may be the culprit. Before the bike went all black, I would hear a click somewhere in front of me, not under me. I bet I will find some black residue when I get it open this evening.
Thanks for your help!

@Joesmoe Hi Paul, I will get back to you on your offer. I may need that help after all.

 

[tdragger]

sounding more and more like an ignition switch problem. sorry to hear that you are having to deal with this.

 

[DEcosse]

sounding more and more like an ignition switch problem.

Sorry, I would respectfully have to disagree. The key factor is that the horn/brake circuit is not working either i.e. NONE of the poles is closing their respective circuits, so the problem must be further upstream.

As I had explained before, there are separate poles (circuits) in the switch;
the horn/turns have completely separate pole (with input power coming from a different fuse) than the headlight/ignition does.
For the headlights and Ignition, Power comes in from fuse #2 through the connector pin #1 and out to pin 4 for the lights (including park light and instrument lights) and out on pin 5 for the ignition circuit.
For the Horn & brake light, this power comes from Fuse #4 and comes in through the connector pin #6 and out on pin #8.
These circuits have no common connection at either the switch itself or at the connector.
Think of it like three separate switches that are independent electrically but operated simultaneously mechanically with a single toggle
It would be very unusual for these poles to fail simultaneously, which is why I would suggest it is unlikely to be either the switch itself, or the connector to it.
For the same reason the connector can be ruled out, as different terminals are used for the different circuits.

(It is remotely possible that the mechanical coupling of the key to the wiper blade is broken- that would be a very rare circumstance, but not impossible)

Which then takes you back to either the battery itself (whether positive or negative connection) or Fuse #11, which is the main Fuse that supplies power to Fuses 2 & 4.

 

[Boog]

I just got it started.
I took both batteries to Autozone and both are good. I came home and started cleaning things around the battery compartment with soapy water on non-electronic areas and Lectra Motive on electric parts. I checked the starter relay just for visible issues and saw none so I cleaned it too.
I put the OEM battery in to see if the lights and horn would work and everything came on. So I hit the starter and it fired right off.
It cannot be that easy.

 

[Fingers]

Glad to hear that it was an easy fix.

 

[Joesmoe]

And now you know who your friends are.