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not ture, there is actually very little if any difference as long as it meets spec. JASO is essentially a snake oil scam
JASO is just a standards organization that, among other things, conducts objective tests of the characteristics of oils submitted to them. Oils subjected for friction analysis are rated either MB, MA1, MA, or MA2, in ascending overall order of friction, based upon objective measures of their performance. Those yielding results that fall within the MB category are usually too "slippery" for use in a wet clutch, typically due to the use of friction modifiers, but would work well in other situations such as Harley-Davidon M8 engines and transmissions (which don't share oil with the clutch) and automobile engines. There's nothing "snake oil" about that--it's a simple reality that oils which are too slippery can cause clutches to slip and may not give the "grabbier" feel that some riders want in certain situations. If an oil hasn't been submitted to JASO or another organization for analysis of friction characteristics, then one is free to experiment with it and see if it's fit for purpose.

If an oil causes your clutch to slip earlier in its lifecycle than it otherwise should have, then saving a few bucks to use that specific oil is probably a poor choice.
 
JASO is just a standards organization that, among other things, conducts objective tests of the characteristics of oils submitted to them. Oils subjected for friction analysis are rated either MB, MA1, MA, or MA2, in ascending overall order of friction, based upon objective measures of their performance. Those yielding results that fall within the MB category are usually too "slippery" for use in a wet clutch, typically due to the use of friction modifiers, but would work well in other situations such as Harley-Davidon M8 engines and transmissions (which don't share oil with the clutch) and automobile engines. There's nothing "snake oil" about that--it's a simple reality that oils which are too slippery can cause clutches to slip and may not give the "grabbier" feel that some riders want in certain situations. If an oil hasn't been submitted to JASO or another organization for analysis of friction characteristics, then one is free to experiment with it and see if it's fit for purpose.

If an oil causes your clutch to slip earlier in its lifecycle than it otherwise should have, then saving a few bucks to use that specific oil is probably a poor choice.
i said essentially and i meant that putting the words "motorcycle" and "JACO" on the front of the container of oil is the scam as in marketing to make you spend more $20 to $30 a quart is a scam and if you are willing to pay for that its usually out of ignorance or the ability to look at the back of the container where those ratings actually matter. Jaco started in 67, wet clutches and motorcycles sure existed before then
 
i said essentially and i meant that putting the words "motorcycle" and "JACO" on the front of the container of oil is the scam as in marketing to make you spend more $20 to $30 a quart is a scam and if you are willing to pay for that its usually out of ignorance or the ability to look at the back of the container where those ratings actually matter. Jaco started in 67, wet clutches and motorcycles sure existed before then
It's not a scam, it's simply stating some facts about the oil and its intended usage. I can get a quart of Mobile 1 full synthetic 20W-50 "V-Twin Motorcycle" branded oil, which by all rights is one of the higher quality oils based on oil analysis data at BITOG, from Wal-Mart for $11. I can also get 10W-40 "Racing 4T motorcycle" branded oil for the same price and Automotive-branded oil of the same viscosity for $12 to $18. So, where's the scam? What, they "scammed" me into paying at least a dollar less a quart? Hell yeah!
 
so I replaced oil yesterday, and I drained total of 3.5Liters or 3.6 quarts out in pan including oil filter, I remember adding 5liters/ 5.2 quarts of racing oil last year when I changed the oil.

Not sure where the rest of the oil went? I dont see tip of exhaust having tons of deposit etc, normal deposits
There is no oil leak anywhere on the bike
I let the oil drain for 2 days in pan, still got 3.5L/3.6Q including filter.

I put new oil in yesterday and will check today how is the noise. I put 5L again as I always do, manual says to put 4.6 L / 4.8Q, I just put 5L / 5.2Q and call it day.
 
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so I replaced oil yesterday, and I drained total of 3.5Liters or 3.6 quarts out in pan including oil filter, I remember adding 5liters/ 5.2 quarts of racing oil last year when I changed the oil.

Not sure where the rest of the oil went? I dont see tip of exhaust having tons of deposit etc, normal deposits
There is no oil leak anywhere on the bike
I let the oil drain for 2 days in pan, still got 3.5L/3.6Q including filter.

I put new oil in yesterday and will check today how is the noise. I put 5L again as I always do, manual says to put 4.6 L / 4.8Q, I just put 5L / 5.2Q and call it day.
It will be interesting to see what the oil level shows on the dipstick after this.
 
I found this at local yamaha dealer, what do you guys think? its around 23USD per bottle, so I would need 23usd x 5

while Motul 7100 15w 50 is only 65usd for a gallon

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23 a qt is too much but im sure its good stuff
 
so I replaced oil yesterday, and I drained total of 3.5Liters or 3.6 quarts out in pan including oil filter, I remember adding 5liters/ 5.2 quarts of racing oil last year when I changed the oil.

Not sure where the rest of the oil went? I dont see tip of exhaust having tons of deposit etc, normal deposits
There is no oil leak anywhere on the bike
I let the oil drain for 2 days in pan, still got 3.5L/3.6Q including filter.
Something aint right
I put new oil in yesterday and will check today how is the noise. I put 5L again as I always do, manual says to put 4.6 L / 4.8Q, I just put 5L / 5.2Q and call it day.
 
23 a qt is too much but im sure its good stuff
As I said two pages back- here we go with another oil thread...

It's $56.21 US on Amazon, which is $14/quart. There may be other oils just as good, but not better.

I always put in less than called for, do the warmup procedure and then add as needed to get it between the marks

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