Waterproof DC12V to 24V Digital LED Panel Voltmeter Gauge Volt Meter

[Ishrub]

Looks like this could be fitted to the LHS accessories power outlet cover on our Rockets for a permanent waterproof fitment.

Waterproof DC12V to 24V Digital LED Panel Voltmeter Gauge Volt Meter

AU $5.68 Approximately US $4.38 Free International shipping







Description:

1.Features: It use to measure DC voltage, have prevent reverse or short circuit protection function.
2.Functions: Monitoring of the battery voltage, make the working voltage of battery in normal use, extend the service life of and protect the battery and motor.
Motorcycle is not launched under normal circumstances, the voltage of 12.5 V is normal.
Motorcycle after launch, the generator voltage normal numerical value is 13.5 V to 14.5 V, voltage too high or too low are defective, suggest to check in the repair shop.
3.Fixed methods: Firstly, open a hole of about 3 cm in diameter, and then put the charger in the hole, finally, use the screw tight.
4.Terminal guidance: voltmeter back marked with "+" "-", they can lead to the original car ACC on a line (this position, the key to the ACC voltmeter will work).

Specification:
1.Output voltage: 12V
2.Measuring range: 12 v and 24 v
3.Material: plastic
4.Display way: display in red digital LED
5.Size: outer diameter is about 3.6 cm, thread diameter is about 2.9 cm,and the thicker is about 1.5 cm

 

[1olbull]

Just FYI -
I am awaiting an order for this similar unit:
3 in 1 12v 24v LED Voltmeter Cigar Lighter Car Charger USB Battery Monitor

 

[DEcosse]

Sorry to disagree guys, but respectfully, something you can't see when riding is of limited usefulness IMO.
Even regarding being able to see it as you walk up to bike, even without a meter, you are going to know pretty quick when you turn on the key and press the button!
You really want to be able to see what it's doing WHEN you're riding.
Also note that in the OEM acc socket* or if using the wiring intended for that, it's going to be on ALL THE TIME!

I like - and personally use - this - Battery Voltage Monitors - Waterproof, accurate, robust & reliable | SparkBright
(I actually have the predecessor what is now called the monsoon - the eclipse is essentially same but the LED has auto-dimming for night riding)
They come in three sizes - for bike though, I prefer the smallest 5mm LED version.

* Isn't the OEM accessory socket a Powerlet as opposed to std cig lighter fitment (unless you have another cig lighter socket 'Bull)

 

[Ishrub]

Sorry to disagree guys, but respectfully, something you can't see when riding is of limited usefulness IMO.
Even regarding being able to see it as you walk up to bike, even without a meter, you are going to know pretty quick when you turn on the key and press the button!
You really want to be able to see what it's doing WHEN you're riding.
Also note that in the OEM acc socket* or if using the wiring intended for that, it's going to be on ALL THE TIME!

I like - and personally use - this - Battery Voltage Monitors - Waterproof, accurate, robust & reliable | SparkBright
(I actually have the predecessor what is now called the monsoon - the eclipse is essentially same but the LED has auto-dimming for night riding)
They come in three sizes - for bike though, I prefer the smallest 5mm LED version.

* Isn't the OEM accessory socket a Powerlet as opposed to std cig lighter fitment (unless you have another cig lighter socket 'Bull)

YEAH BUT - 1olbull and others were originally looking for a USB charger function that he has in that version I posted earlier "Good Looking" Handlebar Mounted USB Power Sources??
Not being waterproof he was not intending to leave it in the accessory plug but mount when required in a 12v female mounted to the handlebars.

The Sparkbright Eclipse 5mm version looks great for dash mount at £16.00(GBP) + £3.00(GBP) shipping = AUD$$29.43. (they seem to have already added the postage in prices below).
I will probably get one too for the price.

The one I posted at 1/6 the price is a cheap option too. If I fit one to my accessory plug cover or the blank fill-in cover on the other side I would add another toggle/rocker switch for it and may add a second switch wired to the alternator output before it gets to the regulator/rectifier with about 40+ volts when working. It is still handy for the price to check before riding or during maintenance tasks or if a charging fault is suspected. Especially the condition missed in the Sparkbright flash interpretation guide when the regulator/rectifier stops providing current even when the alternator is working fine. That is what happened to mine on the Rocket so the battery just kept draining until it died. I ended up spending AUD$220 on a new battery I didn't actually need before diagnosing correctly with a multimeter.
The regulator/rectifier on my Sprint ST1050 malfunctioned as their guide suggested - overcharging the battery.


From the link you provided:

• 
  Features:
• dims automatically in response to ambient light
• fully waterproof & shockproof (IP rating pending)
• available in three LED sizes; 10mm, 8mm, and 5mm
• indicates your battery’s charge condition and confirms alternator operation (if applicable)
• available in 6v, 12v, or 24v versions (or other voltage from 3v min. to 32v max.)
• extremely accurate (12v unit is +/-0.03v)
• 600mm long flexible flying leads (longer leads available on request)
• reverse polarity and overload protected
• simple two wire connection to positive & negative
• very low power consumption(8ma in bright light, 1ma in darkness)
• suitable for direct connection to battery (simply cover to reduce drain when garaged)

• 
  Applications include:
• motorcycles & automotive
• custom application (please contact us for advice)
• standby or portable power units
• aviation or marine
• recreational vehicles

• Datasheet
• Installation Guide

Below are our standard thresholds, recommended for all 12v lead-acid battery systems including an alternator or other charger. Completely bespoke thresholds and output patterns can be created for you during production (e.g. for custom or ultra-low power applications).

Interpretation:

Voltage: Output: Engine running: Engine stopped (electrics off):

>15.20v ■■ Green / Red alternating over-charging–regulator problem not applicable

>13.20v ■ Green steady normal charging exceptional battery charge (uncommon)

>12.45v ■ Amber steady under-charging–alternator problem normal battery, charged and in good health

>12.25v ■■ Red slow flashing not charging–battery low fair battery charge

>12.05v •• Red 2 flashes, repeating not charging–battery low low battery charge

>11.80v ••• Red 3 flashes, repeating not charging–battery very low very low battery charge

<11.80v •••• Red 4 flashes, repeating not charging–battery very low consider renewing battery

* this table reflects a monitor correctly installed as per the instruction guide, and not connected to a high load circuit (e.g. headlights)
** a small number of users confuse the amber and red colours. However, amber is always steady, reds are always flashing


LED size: Panel hole required for LED bezel: Notes:

10mm: 14mm: pcb is shrouded by bezel

8mm: 12mm: pcb is shrouded by bezel

5mm: 8mm: pcb is connected to LED by 50mm flexible leads,
pcb not shrouded by bezel


The units you receive will be for 12v systems with the standard settings shown, unless you state otherwise. Please ensure that you advise us of any special requirements when you place your order.

Prices:
Monsoon 10 - £13.00(GBP) / $18.58(USD) / €16.43(EUR) / $23.91(AUD)
Monsoon 8 - £13.00(GBP) / $18.58(USD) / €16.43(EUR) / $23.91(AUD)

Monsoon 5 - £14.00(GBP) / $20(USD) / €17.69(EUR) / $25.75(AUD)

Eclipse 10 - £15.00(GBP) / $21.43(USD) / €18.95(EUR) / $27.59(AUD)
Eclipse 8 - £15.00(GBP) / $21.43(USD) / €18.95(EUR) / $27.59(AUD)
Eclipse 5 - £16.00(GBP) / $22.86(USD) / €20.22(EUR) / $29.43(AUD)

We post to almost all countries, so please do not worry if your currency is not listed.
All invoices will be issued in GBP. The currency conversions shown are approximate only.


Postage & Packaging: (per delivery, not per unit)
UK postage - £1.00(GBP)
Europe - £2.00(GBP) / €2.53(EUR)
Rest of the world - £3.00(GBP)

 

[DEcosse]

... may add a second switch wired to the alternator output before it gets to the regulator/rectifier with about 40+ volts when working....

The stator output is AC volts, not DC and will never see 40V ac when connected to R/R anyway; you can only measure that when unconnected; when the R/R is connected, the shunt will kick on as soon as the peak voltage rises above setpoint - that is fundamental to how the R/R works

Especially the condition missed in the Sparkbright flash interpretation guide when the regulator/rectifier stops providing current even when the alternator is working fine. That is what happened to mine on the Rocket so the battery just kept draining until it died.

Regardless of whether the stator or r/r fails, this will definitely be reflected in the system voltage and detected by the Sparkbright

The regulator/rectifier on my Sprint ST1050 malfunctioned as their guide suggested - overcharging the battery.

It is extremely rare that a Triumph OEM R/R will fail such that you would get an OVER-charging condition - they virtually always will fail with a shorted rectifier diode or SCR which will result in UNDER-charging; never seen a,Triumph R/R fail like that although it is common on older Suzuki
Regardless the Sparkbright would report OVER-charging voltage anyway

 

[Ishrub]

The stator output is AC volts, not DC and will never see 40V ac when connected to R/R anyway; you can only measure that when unconnected; when the R/R is connected, the shunt will kick on as soon as the peak voltage rises above setpoint - that is fundamental to how the R/R works

Good point I was unaware of, I checked mine after removing the regulator/ rectifier using a multimeter testing all 3 wires from alternator output and only one produced the flunctuating high 40+ volts output when varying thottle.

Regardless of whether the stator or r/r fails, this will definitely be reflected in the system voltage and detected by the Sparkbright

Yep aware of that, stating something wrong with charging system.

It is extremely rare that a Triumph OEM R/R will fail such that you would get an OVER-charging condition - they virtually always will fail with a shorted rectifier diode or SCR which will result in UNDER-charging; never seen a,Triumph R/R fail like that although it is common on older Suzuki
Regardless the Sparkbright would report OVER-charging voltage anyway

Not sure the failed unit on my Sprint ST 1050 was OEM (do they have Triumph markings on them?) but it was putting out 16 volts when tested. It caused the gel battery to swell and eventually split, venting fuming vapour that lookd like smoke from under the seat when riding - I got off it real fast!!! And was very tentative when undoing those horrible hidden seat hex Allen bolts, wondering if it was going to burst into flame any second.

 

[1olbull]

Ya'll lost me at hello!
I have had battery issues, likely mostly my fault, but just for some security I was going to mount mine center front, near the GPS.

 

[Ishrub]

Ya'll lost me at hello!
I have had battery issues, likely mostly my fault, but just for some security I was going to mount mine center front, near the GPS.

Ahhh but your canny thriftyness (you must be related to me and the 'scot in exile' ) saved you USS$1.98 from my listed example.

 

[BenchracerBob]

The stator output is AC volts, not DC and will never see 40V ac when connected to R/R anyway; you can only measure that when unconnected; when the R/R is connected, the shunt will kick on as soon as the peak voltage rises above setpoint - that is fundamental to how the R/R works




Regardless of whether the stator or r/r fails, this will definitely be reflected in the system voltage and detected by the Sparkbright




It is extremely rare that a Triumph OEM R/R will fail such that you would get an OVER-charging condition - they virtually always will fail with a shorted rectifier diode or SCR which will result in UNDER-charging; never seen a,Triumph R/R fail like that although it is common on older Suzuki
Regardless the Sparkbright would report OVER-charging voltage anyway

Thats is exactly what happened to my sons 2007 GSXR 750, the regulator failed in an over current conditioning then took out the bulbs, battery, and worst of all the ECU!!

 

[DEcosse]

Not sure the failed unit on my Sprint ST 1050 was OEM (do they have Triumph markings on them?) but it was putting out 16 volts when tested.

I did say "extremely rare" (Left myself a little wiggle room there - never say never!!!)
Yes, that was definitely an over-charging fail for sure.
The Sparkbright would definitely have caught this - over 15.2V the LED would be flashing red/green alternately.
Incidentally if this situation was detected, the 'get you home' without destroying anything, would be to disconnect the R/R, pull the headlight fuse and head for home or to a safe spot within a reasonable distance (20-30 mins should be good) - the bike will run off the battery in that mode provided it has not already been compromised.

Thats is exactly what happened to my sons 2007 GSXR 750, the regulator failed in an over current conditioning then took out the bulbs, battery, and worst of all the ECU!!

Yes, as I had said, Suzuki R/R often fail in this mod - not good! Bulbs popping is the first clue when you get this happening.
I am surprised it took out the ECU however - that was an expensive failure!

Again, never say never, but the MOSFET R/R used on the Rocket is a very reliable device. If any failures occur on A rocket, it is much more likely to be the Stator which is unfortunate because a major operation to replace on an R3 - engine out!
For that reason I recommend a Series R/R (have written about this elsewhere on forum) - a Series R/R draws much less current (about half) from stator and therefor the stator runs cooler and is much less likely to fry itself.

Incidentally one minor nit-pick on the Sparkbright:
The LED used is actually a 2-colour LED (these devices are not a single 'chip' that changes colour, but 2 separate chips of those colours)
So for red or green, simply that particular device is operated (either solid or flashing depending on what the Controller is dictating)
For Orange, this is not another chip, both the red & green operate together to 'make' orange.
I would have to say it is easy to perceive that 'orange' for red - without another that is pure red to compare, it is difficult to differentiate the red from orange. .
But when you look at the output conditions, there is none for constant red, only constant orange;
So you can tell that if you have a constant hue - whether you perceive it to be red or orange - you know it is the condition that is dictated by constant orange is the range 12.45 to 13.2V
(When true red is displayed it will always be flashing, either alone, or alternating with green).

Of course for anyone with red/green colour-blindness, forget it! This one definitely NOT for you!