Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

The EB arrived on Monday afternoon, and after reviewing the printed instructions and Benny's YouTube install tutorial several times, I was able to complete the install Tuesday and Wednesday after work. After getting all the wires secured, testing at every step, the left side low beam is out. Hopefully, it is just a bulb failure, will pick one up on the way home today. Bike is back together and ready to ride!

Now if I can just get the rain to stop ....

One additional question, please? Are the Parking Lights in the headlamp "cups" supposed to be on at the same time as the headlights?
 
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It has been 2 weeks since reassembly and everything is working great! I have ridden 9 days and put about 500 or so miles on without any issues.

Thanks to all for their help and suggetions!
 
My 09 classic has 30,000 miles on the clock now & EB lighting harness fitted 18 months ago. Now starting with faulty ignition switch with occasional none sweeping & causing intermittent none starting.
 
My 09 classic has 30,000 miles on the clock now & EB lighting harness fitted 18 months ago. Now starting with faulty ignition switch with occasional none sweeping & causing intermittent none starting.

It's possible the ignition was already damaged before you got the EB installed. I put my EB kit in at about 20,000 and wondered if I'd got it in time. My bike originally came from Arizona, so it saw some heat early in it's life. 52,000 now, so far so good (knock on wood).
 
All that's ever been done to my bike was a thicker wire running into the switch.. don't even know which wire young Hank the mechanic in Darwin replaced. Did it at purchase time, before I even picked my bike up .. 110,000 klms ago ..touch wood as well, ignition has never given me any grief.
 
I don't believe that the EB harness is to blame, on the contrary I think its saved more trouble, but I do think that Triumph have a problem which they are passing on to us.
 
Is it possible to just resolder the wire that had problem?

you might get it to go,however if it got hot enough to melt the soldier the switch is probably in bad shape and should be replaced as soon as possible.
i think what takes out the ign switch is when the current goes through the ign then the starter relay then to the starter solenoid.
i think that if you replace the ign feed with a bat feed through the starter relay it would be a better set up and the switch would last a long time. this is the way i am going to do mine when i get the chance.
the only draw back to this set up that i can see is that if the relay ever melts closed the starter will keep cranking over till the battery is dead or you disconnect the bat.
also when i start mine i turn on the ign switch then the kill switch. that way the kill switch makes the first contact spark. i don't know for sure but i think that it would be less money and time to replace kill switch. if any one has replaced one let me know.
this is off the wall but a couple years back i drilled a small hole in the intake manifold and when i first start it i put a very quick shot of starting fluid and it starts right up. i have not seen any side affects from doing this the last two years.
this is just my opinion and it is NOT carved in stone as a repair manual.
 
My problem was inside the ignition module. Apparently one of the connections came loose. After I removed it, there was a rattle inside.

I don't know whether or not that was caused by power surges that have since been (hopefully) remedied by the EB install and ignition module replacement.
 
How do I remove the ignition switch? I don't see any information in my service manual on removing it.