Trans went

[cootertwo]

If it were me, first thing I'd do, like I did to 2 of my Rockets that came with the power commander thing, "Take that cwap off" plug everything back together as stock, and go from there. Just sayin. Tune ECU is so easy to change anything you want. Don't need those "plug in-line" things. Just my humble opinion. BTW, 2 power commanders laying out in the barn somewhere, FREE pickup only.

 

[verticalspark]

If it were me, first thing I'd do, like I did to 2 of my Rockets that came with the power commander thing, "Take that cwap off" plug everything back together as stock, and go from there. Just sayin. Tune ECU is so easy to change anything you want. Don't need those "plug in-line" things. Just my humble opinion. BTW, 2 power commanders laying out in the barn somewhere, FREE pickup only.

My thing is that everything worked without issue on the old engine. So assuming I just swapped out the core engine (using the same electronics as the original engine), it should run. But with the stock ECU, it is extremely rich.

BUT, even when its off, the error code and lack of gauges is a problem that I need to fix first. The PC is only 2 plugs and they are not the problem.

Ill be gone for a few hours and when I get back I will get back to it. I have some electric connector cleaner and dielectric grease so I will likely be cleaning all of the connections that I disconnected.

 

[stingray]

You might look at all the wiring plug pins to be sure they are all seated in the connecting plugs after the unplugging and all. Probably not but sometimes they can be plugged in 180 degrees off doing weird things. At least it runs so making progress.

 

[Gerald]

My thing is that everything worked without issue on the old engine. So assuming I just swapped out the core engine (using the same electronics as the original engine), it should run. But with the stock ECU, it is extremely rich.

BUT, even when its off, the error code and lack of gauges is a problem that I need to fix first. The PC is only 2 plugs and they are not the problem.

Ill be gone for a few hours and when I get back I will get back to it. I have some electric connector cleaner and dielectric grease so I will likely be cleaning all of the connections that I disconnected.

If you can make it run smooth enough, check TPS, possibly got bumped and moved during disassembly and reassembly.

 

[verticalspark]

You might look at all the wiring plug pins to be sure they are all seated in the connecting plugs after the unplugging and all. Probably not but sometimes they can be plugged in 180 degrees off doing weird things. At least it runs so making progress.

If you can make it run smooth enough, check TPS, possibly got bumped and moved during disassembly and reassembly.

So I checked over every plug I could get my hands on for being plugged in correctly and any corrosion. I didn't find any issues besides a single TPS plug where one of the prongs were backed out. I reseated it and tried again with nothing.

I had this stupid idea, what if I pull the power wire from the PC off the battery? I tried to start it and nothing but the air ratio light bar was still on and working. So I moved the wire from the positive to the negative and it fired up and idled...kinda. Someone had the bright idea to install a red connection end even though it was supposed to be on the negative. It is still running very rich as if the PC wasnt there but its running.

This did not fix the gauge issues though. I double checked all the connectors and all the fuses. I swapped the black square boxes as well with nothing changing. I am going to try to get an electrical diagram for the bike because every link I have found is now dead.

 

[Journeyman]

If you can make it run smooth enough, check TPS, possibly got bumped and moved during disassembly and reassembly.

While riding today and thinking about this bike and the TPS came to mind. He's referring to the setting, which you do with TuneECU, not the connection. Pretty easy to check, although I think it might be a longshot- definitely worth a try. Along those lines you have the stepper motor, vacuum lines and caps (if custom air filters), crank position sensor.....

Also, wondering if you have a large exhaust leak if that might be the cause of the shooting flame.

For the wiring diagram I'll go looking for you.....

 

[Journeyman]

I don't see the service manual in Resources (maybe I missed it). Here's a link to it that will have your wiring diagram....

Service_Manual_R3S_C_T.pdf

drive.google.com

 

[verticalspark]

While riding today and thinking about this bike and the TPS came to mind. He's referring to the setting, which you do with TuneECU, not the connection. Pretty easy to check, although I think it might be a longshot- definitely worth a try. Along those lines you have the stepper motor, vacuum lines and caps (if custom air filters), crank position sensor.....

Also, wondering if you have a large exhaust leak if that might be the cause of the shooting flame.

For the wiring diagram I'll go looking for you.....

I don't see the service manual in Resources (maybe I missed it). Here's a link to it that will have your wiring diagram....

Service_Manual_R3S_C_T.pdf

drive.google.com

Thanks! The air intake is stock even though I would like to change that if the bike starts to run correctly. I have been looking at some of the wires for the instrument clusters and it looks pretty simplistic but I couldnt see anything wrong with the wiring or connectors. Think I may start off by turning the bike on and just wiggling the wires to see if it has a response to either a short or bad connection.

 

[Journeyman]

Thanks! The air intake is stock even though I would like to change that if the bike starts to run correctly. I have been looking at some of the wires for the instrument clusters and it looks pretty simplistic but I couldnt see anything wrong with the wiring or connectors. Think I may start off by turning the bike on and just wiggling the wires to see if it has a response to either a short or bad connection.

Also, the dreaded ignition key barrel where all that stuff runs through!

This is for the Roadster, but I think it's similar...

How to remove ignition switch from Roadster?

My switch is going bad and I need to quit putting off the repair. I suspect that one or more wires have come loose or are loose and just barely making enough contact (most of the time). My question is what's involved in getting the switch out? I know that I'll be running into some bolts with...

www.r3owners.net

 

[stingray]

I was just thinking about your situation and was wondering if all of the grounding lugs/wires have been reattached to the frame to the battery. Sometimes one is under a bolt that had to be removed and might be hanging left ungrounded.