The freeplay was fine. It had some play same as any motorcycle I've ever owned and I've owned bikes for 39 years. It wasn't sloppy loose and wasn't too tight. Therefore, I'd have to disagree with you in this case unless I'm misunderstanding what you mean by freeplay.
As far as checking things, I don't just hop on and ride. I do a pre-check to include fluids, tires, etc... and a general walk around. I spent an hour going through the bike the night before checking every nut and bolt I could reach and all the fluids.
Thanks for blaming it on me, however. I appreciate it.
I'm not balming anything on you. It obviously has a problem and usually shaft breakage is directly attributable to lack of freeplay. I wasn't riding the bike...you were.
Now, to the meat of it. You've had bikes for 40 years? Ever have a pre-Hinkley Triumph or a Norton, AJS, Royal Enfield, Velocette or Matchless? All the pre Hinkley bikes have something in common with the Rocket and that is metal to metal contact in the actuation mechanism. Like Tomo has explained, the short shaft (in the clutch itself) contacts a bearing which is supposed to preclude any rotation between the short shaft and the actuation shaft (which connects to the bellcrank on the outside of the housing). Sometimes however, the short shaft turns (for reasons unknown) when the clutch is disengaged (pressure is applied to the basket releasing the plates). and the short shaft spins. The short shaft spins in the lifter shaft (long shaft) and eats out the lifter shaft recess and it eventually breaks. Tomo suggested checking the short shaft for excessive runout. I suggest checking the long one as well. In lieu of a dial indicator and centers, toll the shafts on a piece of float glass. That will give you a good idea. Modern float glass is flat within a couple 10ths.
Now the freeplay. The old Limey bikes are like the R3 in that they used solid actuators as well. The Limey bikes use a ball (like a ball bearing) on the end of the actuator shaft and holding the clutch in the released position for extended periods welded the ball to the basket and the end of the shaft resulting in basically the same scenario you have. The R3 is very similar in physical characteristics.
Freeplay is critical as is the start point of the bellcrank in relationship to the actuator mechanism. 2mm at the handlebar MUST BE MAINTAINED at all times, no exceptions. Any less than 2 mm (between the handlever and the handlebar attachement casting will result in a broken lifetr shaft because the freeplay isn't sufficient and it's going to eat itself and there is no way around it.
I'm familiar enough with my bike that I don't have to check the freeplay to know it's right. I can tell from the mechanical noise the engine emits between a clutch engaged situation and a clutch disengaged situation. It's a very different sound and seat of the pants feeling, but that's just me and that might not work for you.
With the exeption of the Rock and the old Silver Wing GL500, clutch actuation is straight through instead of transmitting the motion through a right angle...something that has to be done with the engine/clutch setup on the Rock. The Goldwing also has the same arrangement but it has a hydraulic slave cylinder instead of the 2 piece arrangement.
On another note, I hope Tony and his wife are ok. Please keep us informed as the situation unflods.
