The BEST MOD ever

[mully95]

Is this a Kisan and are you using the Running Lights option @mully95 ?

It's made by KRISS Motorcycle Products

No running light.

 

[barbagris]

However the fact that you have to use a resistor to make the flash rate work correctly should probably tell you that it is NOT 10W, where no resistor would be necessary. Have you actually measured the current (without the parallel resistor) - a series resistor would be necessary to limit the forward current, but no parallel resistor should be necessary to make the blink rate correct (on a Touring) if indeed is truly expending 10W of electrical power.

Ken, I don't have a flash rate issue as I changed the relay for a load independent LED friendly one ages ago.

But the pre roadster has just one dash-led in the clocks for both L and R. Without a tiny resistor - the indicators themselves blink fine but the dash light does not. It just comes on until you kill the indicators. Looks like you're in Neutral.

On my Guzzi I had a similar issue where the dash lights dimmed lo/hi rather than on/off.

So far I've found most Load independent relays actually leak a small current when theoretically in the off part of the flash cycle. It's how they detect if they're being referenced or the switch is indeed OFF.. Enough to keep a small LED lit dimly.

And yes they draw about 900mA. The white ones put out a lot more light BUT mostly in the Blue Spectrum. The Yellow/Ambar LEDs have a coloured filter resin - this filters out blue - leaves about 400lm. But WAY more than even the most beefy plug and play ones that will fit under Triumph lenses.

I have some spares made up - will post pictures once I'm home.

 

[HansO]

My Rocket now Talks to me he he Thank You Ken, and my Kisan Signal Minder does not interfere with it either

 

[barbagris]

I have some spares made up - will post pictures once I'm home.

As promised - not wired or anything. Single central LED - which I recommend over the experimental 2 LED versions I tried.
These are Amber ones. Held onto the plate by M3 screws recovered from busted PC Disk Drive. Note heat-sink paste between LED and plate.

Note the Helicoil (green). The rear indicators use one machine screw and one self tapper to hold the lens on.
Ali used is too tough for a self tapper.

So the self tapper I replace with an M3 - and it screws into the helicoil. Tried threading the plate but was not enough purchase.
The existing screw passes through the other hole (3mm). I replace the OEM with one to match the selftapper replacement.
Front plates have 2 helicoils to replace 2 self tappers. Thus 2 replacement screws.

Plates are a TIGHT fit. 55.5mm O/D and 2mm thick.

Fitted and 2 LED plate shots when I get a moment.

 

[HansO]

Anyone contemplating the keyless ignition system should go ahead, Ken supplies easy to understand instructions With Pictures, as the hardest part is locating the black and orange wire and even that is not hard, if you have any queries Ken will have you straight before you know it, he is in my books a Electical Genius! As I like to Call him "The Wizard of all things Electrical" I pride myself on my wide knowledge of bikes workings but I would love to know half as much about the Electrics as he does
Ken is THE Man with electricity running in his veins

 

[barbagris]

Fitted and 2 LED plate shots when I get a moment.

Found an old R+D shot
Single vs double

And here is a video taken during R&D Indicators and the RED tail-light flashers. No the latter are not legal in Spain.
But even the police think they're a good idea. Flash twice and then a gap - then 10seconds Flashing (or until you release the brake) then off.

https://app.box.com/s/yjd7ng1lj8f3zcywjcf9y6of4rndxx7r

There is NO WAY the heat sinks would support these LEDs be "on" solid for any length of time .
About 6s and they were hot - 10s VERY HOT. Not clever in plastic indicators.

 

[HansO]

Trying to decide which keyless fuel cap to get, so it got me thinking about how we can have a keyless seat release and came up with a simple solution which would cost bugger all, I have taken pictures and am willing to share them but only privately as I don't want every Tom, *****and Harry knowing how easy it is to get under my seat, not that I carry anything of any value under there but if interested drop me a line
THIS WILL ONLY WORK WITH A ROCKET STD OR CLASSIC AND THE ROADSTERS WHICH HAVE THE KEY RELEASE MECHANISM
NOT THE TOURINGS

 

[DEcosse]

What ............... you don't like this, Hans?

(Incidentally this is interlocked to my keyless - the ignition does not have to be on, but the remote needs to be in range for button to activate)

 

[IMFASTTOO]

I keep the locked gas primarily to prevent anyone from f'ing with the fuel tank and putting stuff in (sugar, water, dirt, etc.). Preventing fuel theft is lower down on my priority list. I'm definitely not comfortable with how easy it is to sabotage the oil tank...

NO S---t

 

[barbagris]

What ............

All this electrickery - We fear change