The BEST MOD ever

[DEcosse]

Yours should be fine @HansO - at least regarding the LEDS (problem is with BIGGER bulbs - LEDs draw less current)
We'll have to see regarding the signal minder - i came across problem with one on a Bonnie* & we had to add a diode there to eliminate issue - let me look at that again & I'll cover that privately with you

Go ahead & get it on there so we can see!

*I need to refresh my memory - as I recall think this was a combined running light/signal minder module and think it was unique circumstance coupled to that & fact the Bonnie had all circuits through single pole

 

[ozrider]

I was walking past my bike at RDU and @HansO yelled out my bike was talking to me
I'm really happy with the keyless mod @DEcosse..... thankyou

 

[Mittzy]

If they don't blink when arming/disarming Tony, the problem is almost certainly that you have higher wattage incandescents in the Turn Signals (there is a note in the install guide that you cannot fit more than the std 10W bulbs)
(I run into this all the time with the UK guys particularly, where the clear lens/orange bulb mod is quite popular)
It's not 'broken', the drivers simply current-limit when they are 'asked' to drive higher current than the designed 10+10 watts.
You can test this by simply disconnecting your front (or rear) turns and if it works to flash the other end still connected, this confirms the issue.

The solution will be to either go back to OEM rated 10W bulbs, or perhaps better, install LED bulbs (in which case you will also need an LED-friendly relay)
In actual fact, you can probably get away with just changing to LEDs at the front ONLY, leave the 20's in the rear and it should flash at normal rate with the std flasher relay

This is the note in the installation guide:

Thanks Ken

 

[DEcosse]

I should have added Tony - it won't cause any permanent issue with controller other than they just won't flash - but if you do want that feature, changing the bulbs is way to resolve
It's kinda nice to know - at least when you are walking away - that you get the flash indication notifying you it has armed
For those who don't have the system, the turn signals flash twice as it disarms when you approach and flash once when arms as you walk away (you can see this in mully''s video in my signature link)

 

[barbagris]

The solution will be to either go back to OEM rated 10W bulbs, or perhaps better, install LED bulbs (in which case you will also need an LED-friendly relay)

Esp if you use 10W LEDs

 

[Mittzy]

Esp if you use 10W LEDs

Do tell

 

[DEcosse]

Doubtful any such thing as 10W led turn signal bulbs

You have to view LED lamp specs with extreme caution - like when LED headlamps are rated at 85W or so - it does not mean they really consume 85W, but that they are supposedly some kind of 'equivalency' (in light output) to (some 'nominal') incandescent rated at 85W (while actually consuming considerably less - maybe 35W)

An LED bulb for a turn signal is probably going to consume somewhere in the 2W range
The challenge with LEDs in the OEM turn signal housing is finding one with adequate output that is not physically too big to fit.

e.g. - 67 LED Bulb w/ Focusing Lens - 3 High Power LED - BA15S Retrofit | LED Brake Light, Turn Light and Tail Light Bulbs | LED Car Light Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

Note that is says "comparable wattage" = 10-15W; then actual current (for amber) is 240mA
240mA is <3W (nominal)

Incidentally I have seen the turn signal bulbs listed here on forum as both 1156 and BAU15S - these are not the same. Now I can't tell you with 100% certainty WHICH is used - don't have one and have not removed OEM to check;
but my understanding is that these OEM are actually 7507 which is same as BAU15S;
but the way to tell is to look at the base of the OEM bulb and inspect the locating pins; 1156 have them directly at 180 degrees to each other; on a BAU15S (or 7507), they are offset (150 deg)
You can modify to fit each into the other housing if you trim or grind off ONE of the two pins. (1156 are much more commonly available)
Also important to note that when fitting LED bulbs, often the fixtures' wires have been polarized incorrectly - this is irrelevant for incandescent but becomes issue for LED; if you install LED and it does not light, you probably have to swap the wires polarity.

 

[mully95]

funny I was going to ask you about this, I have LED (including the relay) front and back and the fact I have a signal minder

I have a signal minder and my signals flash as they should just fine.

 

[barbagris]

Schh - there are 10W LED indicators - IF - you make them yourself.

3*3 SMD LED arrays - 12V-10W ish - custom laser cut heat sinks. You remove the current reflector assembly completely.
Tiny resistors in parallel so the dash light blinks.

Get Amber ones
About 400lms-ish (raw) give or take.

Or you could fit RED ones at the rear behind clear/smoke lenses.

Amber behind Amber is best.
Amber behind Clear next

then
Amber behind (light) smoke. (this is what I run) - also my rears have a red led in parallel attached to a brake flasher.
White behind Amber.

 

[DEcosse]

I have a signal minder and my signals flash as they should just fine.

Is this a Kisan and are you using the Running Lights option @mully95 ?
(this problem only exhibited itself with the Kisan and running light option selected)

Edit - as I look back into that Kisan issue, that was unique to the Twins application (due to their power distribution scheme) - so it would not be a consideration as an issue for the R3.
i.e. as you have already confirmed, having a Kisan does not affect the keyless system on the R3.

Schh - there are 10W LED indicators

3*3 SMD LED arrays - 12V-10W ish - custom laser cut heat sinks.
Tiny resistors in parallel so the dash light blinks.

Major edit - OK - it says the forward current of the 10W is 900mA - 1000mA for a lot of these I see listed which indeed is close to 10W actual expended power

However the fact that you have to use a resistor to make the flash rate work correctly should probably tell you that it is NOT 10W, where no resistor would be necessary. Have you actually measured the current (without the parallel resistor) - a series resistor would be necessary to limit the forward current, but no parallel resistor should be necessary to make the blink rate correct (on a Touring) if indeed is truly expending 10W of electrical power.

Note this for example - 1W 3W 5W 10W 20W 30W 50W 100W Yellow 585-595nm High Power LED Chip Light Beads | eBay

Forward voltage is 6-7V; current is 1000mA
That means you need a SERIES resistor to drop the voltage - that would be required to be dropping 7V at 1000mA which means 7 ohms (8 ohms is probably more readily available) - however that resistor would have to be rated at 8W (10W is what would be available - you could probably get away with 5W since it is only short duty cycle rather than on constant); so you have a hefty (physical) resistor in series with your little LED.
I just don't think it's worth the effort vs just picking a plug n play LED bulb and using an LED-friendly relay (although for Touring you would need parallel load resistors - no relay option for that)