Teflon On Clutch Cable?

[scot in exile]

Do you ever grease the actuating arm or the lever?

As much as I lubed the cable.

 

[rocketjohn]

Where the actuating shaft goes into the engine there is no doubt a bushing, but you can't lube it. It will wear out someday, and you'd have to take the clutch out to access it for replacement. Maybe figure to do the bushing when you rebuild the clutch. The bell crank might benefit from a drop of oil once in a great while where the cable attaches and pivots as it pull on the bell crank.

 

[sonny]

I don't know, but it would be sure to wear off in time...so you'd still be wise to dribble some lube in there from time to time.

The use of petroleum lubrication on a Teflon coated cable will destroy it. They make a Teflon lubrication just for Teflon coated cables. It will displace any moisture and keep the cable from rusting but will not harm the Teflon coating. Most Teflon coated cables do not require lubrication. Unless you rode into the lake the lubrication is not necessary. I really do not care much for lemon pledge I think I'll stick to Coors.

 

[EasTexRIII]

The use of petroleum lubrication on a Teflon coated cable will destroy it. They make a Teflon lubrication just for Teflon coated cables. It will displace any moisture and keep the cable from rusting but will not harm the Teflon coating. Most Teflon coated cables do not require lubrication. Unless you rode into the lake the lubrication is not necessary. I really do not care much for lemon pledge I think I'll stick to Coors.

Never thought of Coors as a lubricant. Always thought it was a pickleing agent. But you could be right too

 

[dobro]

The use of petroleum lubrication on a Teflon coated cable will destroy it. They make a Teflon lubrication just for Teflon coated cables. It will displace any moisture and keep the cable from rusting but will not harm the Teflon coating. Most Teflon coated cables do not require lubrication. Unless you rode into the lake the lubrication is not necessary. I really do not care much for lemon pledge I think I'll stick to Coors.

Still trying to learn whether it's coated and, if so, with what.

 

[Speedy]

Had a clutch cable break last fall at the clutch lever pivot which I had not lubed as there is a plastic bushing in that joint. The OEM replacement cable looked like it was Teflon lined but I am not sure of that. I now use Belray chain wax on the pivots top and bottom and on the cable itself. Sprays as a liquid and dries to a white slippery coating. Won't attract dust, and makes the clutch pull smooth as butter.

Teflon is one of the most chemically inert of all plastics. Oils, fuels, grease, and all petro based solvents will not attack it. If a cable lining is destroyed by oil based lubes it is because the oil attracts dust and the "abrasive slurry" of oil and dust wears away the softer Teflon, or if the lining dissolves the lining isn't Teflon at all but a cheaper plastic coating.

 

[sonny]

That is exactly what I meant. Wrote the early post after a 12 hour shift. Most aftermarket braided cables for Harley's are Teflon coated and they recommend using the Teflon lube vice petro lube just for that reason.

 

[dobro]

Had a clutch cable break last fall at the clutch lever pivot which I had not lubed as there is a plastic bushing in that joint. The OEM replacement cable looked like it was Teflon lined but I am not sure of that. I now use Belray chain wax on the pivots top and bottom and on the cable itself. Sprays as a liquid and dries to a white slippery coating. Won't attract dust, and makes the clutch pull smooth as butter.

Teflon is one of the most chemically inert of all plastics. Oils, fuels, grease, and all petro based solvents will not attack it. If a cable lining is destroyed by oil based lubes it is because the oil attracts dust and the "abrasive slurry" of oil and dust wears away the softer Teflon, or if the lining dissolves the lining isn't Teflon at all but a cheaper plastic coating.

This answer from the "FAQ" section of Barnett Clutches' website (www.barnettclutches.com) supports your opinion: "What type of cable lube do I use? All Barnett cables are Teflon, nylon, or HDPE lined. Cable end fittings should be kept clean and lubed with a light grease or oil. If you wish to lube the internal cable, use a silicone spray, Teflon spray, dri-slide, etc. Do not use heavy oils or grease that can attract dirt."

So, Barnett, which doesn't sell clutch lube, believes that lubing end fittings is mandatory. Elsewhere on that site it is stated that clutch cables come pre-lubed with silicone.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Where the actuating shaft goes into the engine there is no doubt a bushing, but you can't lube it. It will wear out someday, and you'd have to take the clutch out to access it for replacement. Maybe figure to do the bushing when you rebuild the clutch. The bell crank might benefit from a drop of oil once in a great while where the cable attaches and pivots as it pull on the bell crank.

YES you should lube both ends of the cable and the bushing and the clutch lever mechanism and bushings so easy and

Had a clutch cable break last fall at the clutch lever pivot which I had not lubed as there is a plastic bushing in that joint. The OEM replacement cable looked like it was Teflon lined but I am not sure of that. I now use Belray chain wax on the pivots top and bottom and on the cable itself. Sprays as a liquid and dries to a white slippery coating. Won't attract dust, and makes the clutch pull smooth as butter.

Teflon is one of the most chemically inert of all plastics. Oils, fuels, grease, and all petro based solvents will not attack it. If a cable lining is destroyed by oil based lubes it is because the oil attracts dust and the "abrasive slurry" of oil and dust wears away the softer Teflon, or if the lining dissolves the lining isn't Teflon at all but a cheaper plastic coating.

YEP your correct and its a must to lube all the points on the bike and prevent any failures