Something Failed, let’s find it! Transmission Analysis.

The shift of weight forward using the smaller tire and increased v shape profile of the front is why the shorter tire increases the speed of the steering using the Avon.

Using a screen, having bags, sitting bolt upright and a number of other things can cause a wobble. Not to be confused with being overly sensitive at high speed which can lead to a wobble.

To be 100% transparent, my bike does slightly wobble at high speed when encountering bumps, but it settles on its own, by high speeds I mean it does it over 140.

Tightening the head bearing to feel fixed 99% of stability issues, technically mine is slightly too tight.

Again, I like less stability and more agility than is offered by stock geometry.
 
The shift of weight forward using the smaller tire and increased v shape profile of the front is why the shorter tire increases the speed of the steering using the Avon.

Using a screen, having bags, sitting bolt upright and a number of other things can cause a wobble. Not to be confused with being overly sensitive at high speed which can lead to a wobble.

To be 100% transparent, my bike does slightly wobble at high speed when encountering bumps, but it settles on its own, by high speeds I mean it does it over 140.

Tightening the head bearing to feel fixed 99% of stability issues, technically mine is slightly too tight.

Again, I like less stability and more agility than is offered by stock geometry.

Reading Tomtom, 'wobbling' speed is starting around 167mph.(270km)and is getting worse speeding up.I shall tighten the headbearing a bit more. However, what should be 'a bit more'. A quarter turn or less ?
 
At that speed any bump can cause the wobbles, I’ve not found a fix but I have one which will be done by the end of October.

If the Meztlers working via slowing steering down and you’re happy with it, stick with it :p.
 
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Yes, I already did check the slack of the headbearing, is ok, no slack. Cause wobbling could be the bike is a bit more leaning on his nose? Why never more a Metz on the front ?

Leaning to the nose is the relief from a wobble, not the reverse. That's why leaning forward over the tank is the best possible prevention/cure.
My last motor would do a "hands-off bars" wobble when too much weight was on the rear rack or when there was a cupped Metzeler or Avon tire on the front.
just sayin' . . . :D
 
At that speed any bump can cause the wobbles, I’ve not found a tux but I have one which will be done by the end of October.

If the Meztlers working via slowing steering down and you’re happy with it, stick with it :p.

Metz at front, Bridgestone Ex Max at the rear…
 
With my first Harley Sportster, I had a wobble come in around 75/80 mph. I found out if I laid down close to the tank, I could run it up to top speed of 120 mph, with no wobble. It occurred to me, that with my 6'2" body, sitting upright, I was acting as a sail hanging onto the bars, and making the front end lighter, as speed increased.;)
 
With my first Harley Sportster, I had a wobble come in around 75/80 mph. I found out if I laid down close to the tank, I could run it up to top speed of 120 mph, with no wobble. It occurred to me, that with my 6'2" body, sitting upright, I was acting as a sail hanging onto the bars, and making the front end lighter, as speed increased.;)

Yep. sitting upright you are lifting the front, taking away some wheelpressure from the road.My bike has been set more on his nose(front) in order to get some more frontwheel pressure on the road.
 
Reading Tomtom, 'wobbling' speed is starting around 167mph.(270km)and is getting worse speeding up.I shall tighten the headbearing a bit more. However, what should be 'a bit more'. A quarter turn or less ?
I'll chime in. Had the same problem. Tighten headstock and it would work fine for a short time. Got tired of it. So when i went to the progressive springs decided to replace headstock bearings. Not a difficult job but tools for job was rather expensive. Much to my surprise the stock bearings were greased with what appeared to be package grease not bearing grease. Slime and very thin. Had new bearings made. (local shop) New bearings in hand and some Lucas (green bearing grease) packed bearings before installing. Replaced the race's that were in bad shape from over tighten the headstock to many times. Getting a theme here? Makes no difference how you tighten the headstock if the race's and bearing's are shot your going to wobble. 10,000 miles later and only one adjustment made after 500 miles no more wobble. Headstock bearings need to be greased annually. (20,000 recommended). :whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling:
 
I'll chime in. Had the same problem. Tighten headstock and it would work fine for a short time. Got tired of it. So when i went to the progressive springs decided to replace headstock bearings. Not a difficult job but tools for job was rather expensive. Much to my surprise the stock bearings were greased with what appeared to be package grease not bearing grease. Slime and very thin. Had new bearings made. (local shop) New bearings in hand and some Lucas (green bearing grease) packed bearings before installing. Replaced the race's that were in bad shape from over tighten the headstock to many times. Getting a theme here? Makes no difference how you tighten the headstock if the race's and bearing's are shot your going to wobble. 10,000 miles later and only one adjustment made after 500 miles no more wobble. Headstock bearings need to be greased annually. (20,000 recommended). :whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling::whitstling:

Ok. I hope you are not right:unsure:... I just did tighten up the bearing(s) for a bit.I did not hear any crackles while turning the handlebar .So let's wait and see:rolleyes:
 
Headstock bearings are cheap. If you have any concern that they might be failing, just change them. Once the bearing races start to deform due to the constant pounding they take, it's just a matter of time.....
 
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