RPMs drop to Zero!

What I'm thinking is that when you get your bike started, the battery level is lower and the computer calculates the sensor values. Meanwhile down the road the battery is charged up, so those values are now wrong. Then of course I could be wrong.
 
What I'm thinking is that when you get your bike started, the battery level is lower and the computer calculates the sensor values. Meanwhile down the road the battery is charged up, so those values are now wrong. Then of course I could be wrong.

Interesting theory - and Ruzzle, no deal (lmao)
 
Regarding low battery voltage... I believe most of the reference voltage used for the sensors -- is 5 volts. But a battery that is going "open or that is shorting" could certainly cause unpredictable results. What is it with that TPS? Cars have had them since the 70s. Description of operation below.... Maybe they are just too susceptible to heat and vibration...
Non contact type TPS work on the principle of Hall effect or Inductive sensors, or magnetoresistive technologies, wherein generally the magnet or inductive loop is the dynamic part which is mounted on the butterfly valve throttle spindle/shaft gear and the sensor & signal processing circuit board which is stationary. When the magnet/inductive loop mounted on the spindle which is rotated from the mechanical stop to WOT (wide open throttle), there is a change in the magnetic field for the sensor. The change in the magnetic field is sensed by the sensor and the voltage generated is given as the input to the ECU. Normally a two pole rare earth magnet is used for the TPS due to their high Curie temperatures required in the under-hood vehicle environment. The magnet may be of diametrical type, ring type, rectangular or segment type. The magnet is defined to have a certain magnetic field that does not vary significantly with time or temperature. In case of failure of the TPS operation the CHECK ENGINE light remains illuminated even if there is no problem or error in the ECU. It cannot be corrected by clearing ECU errors by running diagnostic software. In order to rectify the malfunction the TPS needs to be replaced by a new one. -- That description is for a car... but why would it be different for our bikes?
 
You might try putting a little dielectric grease on the TPS connector. It fixed mine! You are exactly right. If the computer and the TPS can't converse because of a connector, the conversation goes flat. " Can you hear me now!"
 
I like the Dielectric grease suggestion – so I did a little reading on it. I have used it on the sparkplug boots of my cars, but have never really researched it’s properties. Here is a little info I found on it. Bottom line, its good for many things… but Polyphenyl Etheractual should be applied to the actual "multipin" electrical connections. I can’t say I’ve seen that at the local Pep Boys… Also… I’m thinking there may already be some sort of grease on the connector… Will verify this weekend.
Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.
A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion.
Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants.
Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone exchanges. Vapour from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)
 
Christ!...I've been using dielectric grease for years and years on all my electrical contacts! Never a single problem!!
 
I think many have been using it on the rubber and the contacts... including me in the past. I went to the auto store today and read off the box, that the dielectric should be used on the rubber, not connection.... at least for that Permatex product. There's a product out there used to protect trailer connections... it specifically says it is for connections and not a lubricant or sealant. Seems like in the perfect "NASA" world, we'd be using multiple products, one to seal and another to protect against corrosion. I also have to think that we're probably going down a blind alley on this... although it doesn't make sense that so many of these device are apparently failing over and over.

One more thing… When they manufacture these TSP units, they must have a way to QA test them. I wonder what that method was/is? Seems like an ohmmeter and 5 volts would be all that is required. I just recently swapped my TPS with one that was recently replaced (from another bike). It ran fine for a few days. Then my bike cut out and died…twice. I reinstalled the old (original from 2005) unit, and so-far-so-good. Also, when I swapped, the TPS, there was no need to do the primary throttle stepper adjustment. It was fine.
 
Hmm DC, these TPSs can be so temporamental. If it did just that one time I wouldnt be to concerned, but if it starts doing it again I would definitely look at replacing it. Mine use to do that on occasion until I replaced it.
 
Hmm DC, these TPSs can be so temporamental. If it did just that one time I wouldnt be to concerned, but if it starts doing it again I would definitely look at replacing it. Mine use to do that on occasion until I replaced it.

It's a brand new one, but has only happened once so far!
 
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