Rear wheel

[1olbull]

If your talking about torque of the axle nut I would not leanthat way unless you tightenit up so much that it crushes the spacer bushing between the two wheel bearings thenyou would have undue stress or pressure on the sides of the rollers and sides of the race grooves creating premature wear. Likewise if during original assembly if a spacer got by QA and was dimensionally short you would create the same type of excessive load. What could also have been done at the plant that makes the wheel for Triumph is the bearing could have been pressed inslightly crooked which could gaul the bore in a spot piling the metal up as the bearing goes in. With the gauled material piled up as it goes in the bearing would bottom out cockeyed out of alignment which would have undue pressure when the axle was torqued plus it would also act likethe bore was smaller then specified tolerance again squeezing down on the outer race a eliminate the running clearance betweenthe rollersand the races again extraheat dispates the grease as the seal ztarts to leak or acting like a interference fit. Myself I freeze bearings androp them in the bore then use a press to hold the in while they warm back up. Same with press fit bushings. Remember metal to metal or in layman terms if OD and ID are the same size it still fits in the interference class of fit.

There is NO galling in my rear wheel as I inspected it thoroughly.
If there is a next time, I shall indicator the bored for concentricity, as suggested by @Rocket3Pilot.
Perhaps I will locate a castellated nut and drill the axle for a cotter so I can safely experiment with slightly less torque?

 

[1olbull]

If I was going through wheel bearings the first thing I would check would be the length of the center spacer tube. Too short and it will side load the bearings and kill bearing life. The center tube ends can be damaged if a bearing goes bad and if it is not replaced it will take out the replacement bearing sets quickly. If the ends are not parallel as in they were machined skewed the result is the same as if the bores aren't round and or are not concentric.

As to the assembly procedure; more than one way to skin a cat. My preference is to tighten but not fully torque the axle nut with bevel bolts just snug, tighten the bevel box bolts, release the axle nut and re-tighten but not fully torqued. Release the bevel box bolts and then torque to specs. Then release and finally torque the axle nut. Do not over tighten the axle nut as doing so can distort the bearing inner races. And a shim to take up extra gap between seal sleeve and inner face of the brake mount is a good idea if there is more than 0.02 or 0.03" clearance.

Books are usually pretty good but they are sometimes incomplete or just plain wrong.

More excellent suggestions! Thanks!
Are there published specs on that center spacer tube?
I know that with the new bearings in place, the spacer has just enough length drag to allow it to remain in place while positioning the wheel assembly and lining it up for insertion of the axle.

 

[warp9.9]

More excellent suggestions! Thanks!
Are there published specs on that center spacer tube?
I know that with the new bearings in place, the spacer has just enough length drag to allow it to remain in place while positioning the wheel assembly and lining it up for insertion of the axle.

Hmm none of mine spacers move so I never have mess with linng it up for the axle to line up. Not even my 18 inch rim. I might have to see if I can get a rim modified to 17 inchso I can try a 245 perelli tire on the beast.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

More excellent suggestions! Thanks!
Are there published specs on that center spacer tube?
I know that with the new bearings in place, the spacer has just enough length drag to allow it to remain in place while positioning the wheel assembly and lining it up for insertion of the axle.

That should be perfect.

 

[1olbull]

That should be perfect.

Fred,
One would think so, but I'd still like to know those spacer specs just in case . . .

 

[Rocket Scientist]

OK who's gonna buy a new one and measure it (and hope it was made on a Wednesday)

 

[BigNorm]

I'll try and remember to mic them when I change my rear tire soon if no one else gets to it first.

 

[1olbull]

OK who's gonna buy a new one and measure it (and hope it was made on a Wednesday)

WAY TOO SPENDY for this simple piece of tubing!

2:
SPACER, WHEEL, 20 177.93
1389429 T2010402 1 $25.82 $25.82

 

[Rocket Scientist]

WAY TOO SPENDY for this simple piece of tubing!

2:
SPACER, WHEEL, 20 177.93
1389429 T2010402 1 $25.82 $25.82

 

[BigNorm]

WAY TOO SPENDY for this simple piece of tubing!

2:
SPACER, WHEEL, 20 177.93
1389429 T2010402 1 $25.82 $25.82

Look close! Are you sure it doesn't say Harley Davidson?