Rear wheel

[Wrecka]

Seems to be a a large ammount of cut and paste mechanical expertise around here lately...........just saying

 

[BigNorm]

Read the book. The book is good. The book never lies! I'm just a redneck!

 

[scot in exile]

i do not know where u r getting your info from but my book says when u install the bevel box u slip it on to the spline and put the wheel spindle through the swinging arm to ensure it will realign with the swing arm when the wheel is installed. tighten the bevel nuts in in two stages 20nm then 64nm . then refit the rear wheel as described on page 16.10
i not only agree with the book the only thing that makes sense is to torque the axle nut last. if steve is doing it your way no wonder he is having trouble.
if u have a book that is wrong we need to know about it.

Fred has had his bike stripped down sold off bought back then pawned then bought back and messed around with the rear end(bike) quite a few times trust what he says his word is golden, did I also mention I have a bridge for sale.

 

[1olbull]

i do not know where u r getting your info from but my book says when u install the bevel box u slip it on to the spline and put the wheel spindle through the swinging arm to ensure it will realign with the swing arm when the wheel is installed. tighten the bevel nuts in in two stages 20nm then 64nm . then refit the rear wheel as described on page 16.10
i not only agree with the book the only thing that makes sense is to torque the axle nut last. if steve is doing it your way no wonder he is having trouble.
if u have a book that is wrong we need to know about it.

Honestly, Herman, I have done it both ways and the bearings still puked.
I don't feel that torque sequence is the culprit and the bike tracks straight (on a level surface).
I will see how these Axis bearing last while hoping the OEMs just suck!

 

[TURBO200R4]

Honestly, Herman, I have done it both ways and the bearings still puked.
I don't feel that torque sequence is the culprit and the bike tracks straight (on a level surface).
I will see how these Axis bearing last while hoping the OEMs just suck!

someone has a saying something like this (that feeling that u have that tells u u are about to say something wrong i don't have that) i just love that

it may not be the torque sequence it may be your driving

 

[1olbull]

someone has a saying something like this (that feeling that u have that tells u u are about to say something wrong i don't have that) i just love that

it may not be the torque sequence it may be your driving

OUCH!!!
Yet, possibly true . . .

 

[Rocket3Pilot]

Honestly, Herman, I have done it both ways and the bearings still puked.
I don't feel that torque sequence is the culprit and the bike tracks straight (on a level surface).
I will see how these Axis bearing last while hoping the OEMs just suck!

I think warp9.9 has it correct. The likely issue is that, even though you are assembling correctly the bearings are not running concentric for one reason or another. It doesn't take much at all in the socket to throw the axial alignment. If I had gone through 2 sets of bearings in 100k I'd be taking the wheel to a machinist to verify the bores and shoulders were true before trying a third set. It's not likely to be the bearings fault 3 times. Just saying........

 

[TURBO200R4]

i was not suggesting that torque sequence was the cure of all wheel bearing problems. i think that warp is right also.
warp what is your experience does the power torque take out these bearings? what has been the best bearings? do u even have probs?
if i was to have bearing problems i would set up the wheel onto the final drive and use a few washers to take up the space of the frame. then i would (not on the frame) start torquing it down and make sure that it does NOT develop a pre load.
if it has preload then u better find out why.
all it would take is a little shaving where the outer bea seats to cause a problem.
this is kind of off the wall but i also think it is a possibility that the dealers is screwing up the wheels because of the pressure it takes to change the tire. i know i will be checking mine real close when i get them back.

 

[sonny]

Allballs are pretty good bearings. They sell a set for the Rockets. Been using them in the Harley for the last three years. Better quality than OEM. Would not trust a dealership in Oklahoma to wash my bike much less work on it again. All parts and tools are in so this weekend after being down for two weeks I should have the rocket up and running. Replacing all the wheel bearings, balancing tire, Replacing all the ruined nuts and bolts and finish hooking up new licencing plate holder. Looking forward to riding on the darkside for the very first time.

 

[warp9.9]

If your talking about torque of the axle nut I would not leanthat way unless you tightenit up so much that it crushes the spacer bushing between the two wheel bearings thenyou would have undue stress or pressure on the sides of the rollers and sides of the race grooves creating premature wear. Likewise if during original assembly if a spacer got by QA and was dimensionally short you would create the same type of excessive load. What could also have been done at the plant that makes the wheel for Triumph is the bearing could have been pressed inslightly crooked which could gaul the bore in a spot piling the metal up as the bearing goes in. With the gauled material piled up as it goes in the bearing would bottom out cockeyed out of alignment which would have undue pressure when the axle was torqued plus it would also act likethe bore was smaller then specified tolerance again squeezing down on the outer race a eliminate the running clearance betweenthe rollersand the races again extraheat dispates the grease as the seal ztarts to leak or acting like a interference fit. Myself I freeze bearings androp them in the bore then use a press to hold the in while they warm back up. Same with press fit bushings. Remember metal to metal or in layman terms if OD and ID are the same size it still fits in the interference class of fit.