Rear wheel

[Speedy]

If I was going through wheel bearings the first thing I would check would be the length of the center spacer tube. Too short and it will side load the bearings and kill bearing life. The center tube ends can be damaged if a bearing goes bad and if it is not replaced it will take out the replacement bearing sets quickly. If the ends are not parallel as in they were machined skewed the result is the same as if the bores aren't round and or are not concentric.

As to the assembly procedure; more than one way to skin a cat. My preference is to tighten but not fully torque the axle nut with bevel bolts just snug, tighten the bevel box bolts, release the axle nut and re-tighten but not fully torqued. Release the bevel box bolts and then torque to specs. Then release and finally torque the axle nut. Do not over tighten the axle nut as doing so can distort the bearing inner races. And a shim to take up extra gap between seal sleeve and inner face of the brake mount is a good idea if there is more than 0.02 or 0.03" clearance.

Books are usually pretty good but they are sometimes incomplete or just plain wrong.

 

[sonny]

The dealership tighten my axle nut to the point where I had to use a four foot breaker bar to loosen it. 110 Nm?

 

[Speedy]

Way too tight!!! 110nm = 81 ft/lb. Less than a wheel lug nut by 20 ft/lbs.

 

[BigNorm]

If I was going through wheel bearings the first thing I would check would be the length of the center spacer tube. Too short and it will side load the bearings and kill bearing life. The center tube ends can be damaged if a bearing goes bad and if it is not replaced it will take out the replacement bearing sets quickly. If the ends are not parallel as in they were machined skewed the result is the same as if the bores aren't round and or are not concentric.

As to the assembly procedure; more than one way to skin a cat. My preference is to tighten but not fully torque the axle nut with bevel bolts just snug, tighten the bevel box bolts, release the axle nut and re-tighten but not fully torqued. Release the bevel box bolts and then torque to specs. Then release and finally torque the axle nut. Do not over tighten the axle nut as doing so can distort the bearing inner races. And a shim to take up extra gap between seal sleeve and inner face of the brake mount is a good idea if there is more than 0.02 or 0.03" clearance.

Books are usually pretty good but they are sometimes incomplete or just plain wrong.

HERESY!!!! Speaketh no evil toward thine Book of Triumph or Ye Shall be SMITETH byith YON TRIUMPH BIKER GODS! REPENT!!!!

 

[TURBO200R4]

warp i did not explain correct.
the torque of the motor to raise the front end off the ground and keep it up. also the hp u run do u think that hp and torque takes out your rear bearings?

 

[warp9.9]

warp i did not explain correct.
the torque of the motor to raise the front end off the ground and keep it up. also the hp u run do u think that hp and torque takes out your rear bearings?

No I do not think it would have a ill effect

 

[TURBO200R4]

No I do not think it would have a ill effect

thanks for the info

 

[BigNorm]

REPENT!

 

[EasTexRIII]

HERESY!!!! Speaketh no evil toward thine Book of Triumph or Ye Shall be SMITETH byith YON TRIUMPH BIKER GODS! REPENT!!!!

The Book???? You ever do rear brake pads by the book????

 

[1olbull]

I think warp9.9 has it correct. The likely issue is that, even though you are assembling correctly the bearings are not running concentric for one reason or another. It doesn't take much at all in the socket to throw the axial alignment. If I had gone through 2 sets of bearings in 100k I'd be taking the wheel to a machinist to verify the bores and shoulders were true before trying a third set. It's not likely to be the bearings fault 3 times. Just saying........

A good suggestion to be sure and one that I shall do should the bearings fail again.
Thanks!