If I was going through wheel bearings the first thing I would check would be the length of the center spacer tube. Too short and it will side load the bearings and kill bearing life. The center tube ends can be damaged if a bearing goes bad and if it is not replaced it will take out the replacement bearing sets quickly. If the ends are not parallel as in they were machined skewed the result is the same as if the bores aren't round and or are not concentric.
As to the assembly procedure; more than one way to skin a cat. My preference is to tighten but not fully torque the axle nut with bevel bolts just snug, tighten the bevel box bolts, release the axle nut and re-tighten but not fully torqued. Release the bevel box bolts and then torque to specs. Then release and finally torque the axle nut. Do not over tighten the axle nut as doing so can distort the bearing inner races. And a shim to take up extra gap between seal sleeve and inner face of the brake mount is a good idea if there is more than 0.02 or 0.03" clearance.
Books are usually pretty good but they are sometimes incomplete or just plain wrong.
As to the assembly procedure; more than one way to skin a cat. My preference is to tighten but not fully torque the axle nut with bevel bolts just snug, tighten the bevel box bolts, release the axle nut and re-tighten but not fully torqued. Release the bevel box bolts and then torque to specs. Then release and finally torque the axle nut. Do not over tighten the axle nut as doing so can distort the bearing inner races. And a shim to take up extra gap between seal sleeve and inner face of the brake mount is a good idea if there is more than 0.02 or 0.03" clearance.
Books are usually pretty good but they are sometimes incomplete or just plain wrong.