R3R - stalling issue?

Mine did it quite often in the first few hundred miles. It became less frequent with time, as if that big power plant was getting loosened up. I bought mine from Belle Plaine Motor Sports. It may be the stepper motor voltage is low. Fully charge your battery as well. Time and miles may prove to be the only fix. What are your RPM's at idle? Mine were low, around 800ish. I had them turn that up a bit as well.
 
My 2013 is doing the stalling as well...Ive only got 60 miles on mine, but it does it very frequently. VERY FREQUENTLY! Ill call the dealer tomorrow and see what they have to say.
GG, I think your issue may be the TPS needs adjusting. The dealer had to fix mine too the first few days.
 
GG, I think your issue may be the TPS needs adjusting. The dealer had to fix mine too the first few days.
I'm going to try the 12 min tune to start with and if that doesn't work, I'll zip it up to the dealer and have them adjust the TPS.
 
Update...I took the Roadster to the dealer and they reset the TPS and the stalling issue has ceased.
I'm going to try the 12 min tune to start with and if that doesn't work, I'll zip it up to the dealer and have them adjust the TPS.

 
Allow me to offer up my 1/2 cents worth. At approx. 25,000 miles miles my 2005 R3 standard started stalling. Usually when getting off the highway and coming to a stop. Initially, it would would just idle real slow and rough (500 rpm's) and then recover. As time went on it would actually stall. Here is what I did to fix it (has been good since, has over 50,000 miles now). On the left side of the throttle body assembly there is a mechanical stop screw. It's typically painted yellow to indicate tampering. There is linkage between the mechanical stop and the throttle butterflies. When you are running "on throttle" the ecu cuts the idle stepper voltage to zero because it thinks the engine is "idling" to fast. My linkage had worn to the point that it was allowing the throttle butterflies to close completely. When I would come to a stop, the engine would starve for air until the idle stepper got the butterflies opened up again. I believe the engine should have a "base idle speed" of maybe 650 rpm's with no intervention from the idle stepper. I turned in the mechanical stop screw until I could get off the throttle without it bucking and stalling. Now you might ask "why would my brand new bike have worn throttle linkage" ? I'm sure it doesn't. What could be happening though is the "base idle speed" could be set to low from the factory. Maybe trying to meet some emission standard or something. As the engine breaks in and loosens up a bit the problem sometimes takes care of itself. Other times not. I would say if you have more than 10,000 miles and it's still stalling, and the dealer is still scratching his arse, I would give the throttle screw a try.


Worth a try to fix my issue. Where do I find this Throttle Screw???

Thanks,
 
Dawg, On day two of my 2014 R3T, I had the engine cut off when down shifting as well. I took it back to Manassass Tirumph and they figured it was the TPS not set correctly. They ran the tune and fixed my issue, maybe yours is the same, just needs the TPS adjusted.


Hate to ask but what is a TPS??
 
Throttle Position Sensor located at rear end of throttle shaft in the injector throttle bodies
 
Worth a try to fix my issue. Where do I find this Throttle Screw???

Thanks,

You will have to take the bearclaw off and move the coolant overflow tank out of the way (you won't have to drain it, just use a zip tie or bungee to hold it out of the way). There is a plastic piece to the left of the front throttle body, held on with two 8mm bolts that keeps riff raff out the throttle cables. Take that off. The throttle screw is right in that area. It will have yellow paint on it. Wish I had a picture to show you.
 
You will have to take the bearclaw off and move the coolant overflow tank out of the way (you won't have to drain it, just use a zip tie or bungee to hold it out of the way). There is a plastic piece to the left of the front throttle body, held on with two 8mm bolts that keeps riff raff out the throttle cables. Take that off. The throttle screw is right in that area. It will have yellow paint on it. Wish I had a picture to show you.


Many thanks, I've give a look!
 
Update...

So when a manufacturer says "no changes to the ECU" don't believe them. I recently installed a set of D&D 3:2 Performance exhaust, which means I dropped 70lbs including the CAT. However, if the ECU thinks there's a CAT and there isn't, it starts to stall and sputter and run wrong! In essence, if you are changing anything related to the engine, check the tune.
 
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