Next Generation Key-Less System

Here's a heads-up for all my Key- Less users:

One Captain just got bike back from Dealer after 6 weeks - the remote was completely dead.

Note that the Remote has battery saving mode where it essentially shuts off when it is out of range - it consumes next to no power in this mode.
When it is in range, as most of you users will recognize, the remote flashes green LED when it is within range (but ignition is still 'off')
And again when ignition comes on, the green LED stops flashing, going back to battery saver mode.
So the only time it is consuming any significant current is when it is in range and ignition not energized.

I suspect in our Captain's case that the key/remote were left directly at the bike and the remote was just constantly flashing until the battery died.
(As noted above it was in shop for 6 weeks)
This was after being in operation for a year, so take that into account also - however I am certain that being left in constant 'active' mode is going to kill it a whole lot quicker than those few seconds even if multiple times a day of normal use over course of a year.

So - the simple advice is - don't leave the remote within range of your bike, whether it be in your own garage or shop - it will dramatically reduce the battery life.
You should get well in excess of a year, - even 2 - but it's not a bad idea to just replace it annually as a matter of course
The one you need is a CR2032 or DL2032 or equivalent - just pop open the case and swap it out.

Just FYI -
I always carry my second remote (with battery separate) as back-up just in case.
 
In other news, looks like I will have a Thunderbird variant coming - working with a 1700 TBird owner currently and hope to get that finalized within next couple of weeks
There are only some subtle differences - connector and harness lengths.

Tell your friends! :D

I will probably be in the market for this variant also!
 
I always have the key with me and the Allen wrench for the tank bolt. It's a simple matter to lift the tank and plug the factory ignition back in if something happens.

So very true, but having a back-up just seems easier to me.
 
Several have asked me - most who are not familiar with it yet - and believe they want the key-switch connected for a back-up.
First, I have not had a single failure* of ANY of my variants, and at least to my knowledge, not one user has had to reconnect the switch in emergency;
so I do not believe having the key-switch in parallel is necessary.
*I do not consider a battery end of life a failure :D
Second - if you connect the key-switch, you restore the ease of theft by the traditional methods of screwdriver or hot-wiring;
so personally think is better to NOT have it connected

I discourage it for the reasons stated, however IF anyone feels strongly enough about really wanting to do that, then I could provide a 1:2 adapter so both could be connected simultaneously.
A much cheaper (and better IMO) option is just to buy a replacement battery and tape it under the seat! :D
Or as suggested, simply replace it once a year when you change your CO/Fire detector batteries in the house (everyone DOES do that each year, right?)
 
Several have asked me - most who are not familiar with it yet - and believe they want the key-switch connected for a back-up.
I discourage it for the reasons stated, however IF anyone feels strongly enough about really wanting to do that, then I could provide a 1:2 adapter so both could be connected simultaneously.
A much cheaper (and better IMO) option is just to buy a replacement battery and tape it under the seat! :D
Or as suggested, simply replace it once a year when you change your CO/Fire detector batteries in the house (everyone DOES do that each year, right?)
If the buggers can get to the bloody switch with a screwdriver on mine - they'll have brought a hoist anyway. I have small hands and can barely get to my switch. I'd have to carry the key anyway to get under the seat so.....I will think a bit.

CO/fire detectors - we laugh at such considerations in Spain.
 
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Or - leave the original switch in parallel? - and use a key.
Oh wait. What a simple idea!. :sneaky: :evil: :coffee:
Ken - joking aside - could that be an option?

Why do that, my friend?
Having the key-hole displayed in normal fashion while inoperable, adds one more level of anti-theft, IMHO.
 
Why do that, my friend?
Having the key-hole displayed in normal fashion while inoperable, adds one more level of anti-theft, IMHO.
Mate. My keyhole is barely visible and less accessible - and I know where it is. (As the actress said to the bishop).
In fact it's my only interest in a solution like Kens - convenience.
I would have made my own up ages ago with a "close proximity" passive RFID if I had found a decent non metallic place to fit it.

Here - if they're going to nick something they use a van and push it in. Nobody hot-wires a bike.

I have a mate who runs a Bike Transport Service. He loads Harley Dressers (he's not done a Rocket yet) at a run - takes him about 10 seconds to get one into a Ford Transit. The only way to slow that is apply the steering lock - key!. If a villain failed to get it in first shot - most would leave it lying there and move on before the crashing sound brings witnesses out.

Start it later in a closed shop - if you even bother - most I bet just get chopped. imo this makes (business) sense.
Many bikes have loud pipes - your average villains van is nondescript and quiet.

In my particular case - the anti-theft aspect is not even part of the consideration. But this is Spain.
Here there is MUCH easier prey. High volume sub-125cc scooters. And a plethora of popular bikes - 675cc Triumphs for example.
 
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