Next Generation Key-Less System

[barbagris]

I think @barbagris would like them.

Oh he does - I'm off out with a crowbar.

 

[barbagris]

Will my additional light circuit handle this?

Think about the alternator output too. ime At above 3000ish rpm the engine starts to be an amps consumer. Speaker Adaptive and Clearwater. And on the 1st day ....... Let there be LIGHT.

 

[DEcosse]

Maybe the lighting discussion belongs in a different thread guys?

 

[DEcosse]

Here's a heads-up for all my Key- Less users:

One Captain just got bike back from Dealer after 6 weeks - the remote was completely dead.

Note that the Remote has battery saving mode where it essentially shuts off when it is out of range - it consumes next to no power in this mode.
When it is in range, as most of you users will recognize, the remote flashes green LED when it is within range (but ignition is still 'off')
And again when ignition comes on, the green LED stops flashing, going back to battery saver mode.
So the only time it is consuming any significant current is when it is in range and ignition not energized.

I suspect in our Captain's case that the key/remote were left directly at the bike and the remote was just constantly flashing until the battery died.
(As noted above it was in shop for 6 weeks)
This was after being in operation for a year, so take that into account also - however I am certain that being left in constant 'active' mode is going to kill it a whole lot quicker than those few seconds even if multiple times a day of normal use over course of a year.

So - the simple advice is - don't leave the remote within range of your bike, whether it be in your own garage or shop - it will dramatically reduce the battery life.
You should get well in excess of a year, - even 2 - but it's not a bad idea to just replace it annually as a matter of course
The one you need is a CR2032 or DL2032 or equivalent - just pop open the case and swap it out.

 

[DEcosse]

In other news, looks like I will have a Thunderbird variant coming - working with a 1700 TBird owner currently and hope to get that finalized within next couple of weeks
There are only some subtle differences - connector and harness lengths.

Tell your friends!

 

[ozrider]

@DEcosse , after having seen my keyless setup by you the local Triumph tech out here asked me if you were going to do a T bird version as they have had quite a few enqueries about keyless for them.

 

[DEcosse]

The pilot TBird end-user has been great - provided these mock-up pics so we have determined this is where it will go
A 2x4 construction lumber block cut to approx size makes for a great test box

(That is the Key-Switch power connector immediately below the alarm connector - the fuse box has been pulled away to show)

Just final details on which is the best face to exit with the harnesses and their lengths.
The power connector is same series as the R3 later model but is only 6-way but I know I can get it.

 

[Mittzy]

The pilot TBird end-user has been great - provided these mock-up pics so we have determined this is where it will go
A 2x4 construction lumber block cut to approx size makes for a great test box

(That is the Key-Switch power connector immediately below the alarm connector - the fuse box has been pulled away to show)

Just final details on which is the best face to exit with the harnesses and their lengths.
The power connector is same series as the R3 later model but is only 6-way but I know I can get it.

Looks like there might be a mounting post ( or whatever) that might go through the rubber grommet for mounting the side cover - would the device box be in the way of this?

 

[Mittzy]

Here's a heads-up for all my Key- Less users:

One Captain just got bike back from Dealer after 6 weeks - the remote was completely dead.

Note that the Remote has battery saving mode where it essentially shuts off when it is out of range - it consumes next to no power in this mode.
When it is in range, as most of you users will recognize, the remote flashes green LED when it is within range (but ignition is still 'off')
And again when ignition comes on, the green LED stops flashing, going back to battery saver mode.
So the only time it is consuming any significant current is when it is in range and ignition not energized.

I suspect in our Captain's case that the key/remote were left directly at the bike and the remote was just constantly flashing until the battery died.
(As noted above it was in shop for 6 weeks)
This was after being in operation for a year, so take that into account also - however I am certain that being left in constant 'active' mode is going to kill it a whole lot quicker than those few seconds even if multiple times a day of normal use over course of a year.

So - the simple advice is - don't leave the remote within range of your bike, whether it be in your own garage or shop - it will dramatically reduce the battery life.
You should get well in excess of a year, - even 2 - but it's not a bad idea to just replace it annually as a matter of course
The one you need is a CR2032 or DL2032 or equivalent - just pop open the case and swap it out.

I keep my key in a tin box next to my bike and remote goes into sleep mode.

 

[DEcosse]

Looks like there might be a mounting post ( or whatever) that might go through the rubber grommet for mounting the side cover - would the device box be in the way of this?

Good input - I'll check on that
The block is a bit thicker than the actual box and there is also some space so don't believe it is problem but worth checking

I keep my key in a tin box next to my bike and remote goes into sleep mode.

The metal box will shield the RFID signal (just same as if the antenna was behind metal panels) so that is good idea.