MOSFET reg/rec issues

Does the original R/R have fins? And is it not hidden behind the evap can? If it can survive where it is, I am sure the SH847 will feel luxuriously cool by comparison. As a point of comparison, when your fan is off, hold your hand near the radiator....feel heat? It's shedding heat even when the fan is not turning....simply because that's what it does. The cooling fins on the R/R will shed heat too. More efficiently with excellent air flow, but convection alone is better than nothing.
 
The original R/R is on the underside of a bracket attached to the frame on the left side, mounted like a pancake, with the fins facing down in open air above the drive shaft and open to the ground. That same bracket holds the tip-over sensor on top (either component can be removed without affecting the other just in case you are wondering).

I imagine (and NO data here -- so what follows is probably useless) with the slightly higher and more forward position of the SH847 mounted in place of the evaporative emissions canister, it would be a tad closer to the engine, a tad farther from the air flow, and depending on the temperature gradient, a tad warmer. Countering that, the SH847 should be working much less hard than the OEM R/R.

SHOW ME THE DATA !
 
I am going to presume, that in motion, there is quite good airflow just about everywhere on a bike.....and go forward. The SH847 is laying in my toolbox waiting for a day to tinker.
 
The OEM FH012 and the SH847 have different temperature signatures because they operate completely differently and with different types of power components

The OEM is a MOSFET Shunt device and is actually running at much higher current; however MOSFETs have extremely low 'on' resistance, so even though the current is high, the dissipated power is quite low (power = I^2*R)

The SH847 is a Series Regulator - those Series components will actually run at a much lower current; (I am not sure what type of devices are actually in these modules but I believe they are SCR's); it probably runs about half the current that the MOSFET unit will;
so there is an advantage there from the current, however the resistance is higher.
So the SH847 wil tend to get a bit hotter than the MOSFET Shunt unit will, even though the operating current is lower
But note that is has a significantly bigger heatsink, with larger cooling fins; so even modest airflow will help to dissipate the generated heat (it will still dissipate heat even with out a physical flow across it)

The primary difference in operation is that the MOSFET is ALWAYS conducting max current; so its temperature is going to be solely determined by how fast the engine is turning (higher rpm means more current generated - but only up to a max at about maybe 3k rpm) and how much heat it gives up;
the Series will conduct only as much current as is being demanded by 'the load' (the sum of all the circuits demands); so it will operate hotter (respectively, not necessarily 'HOT') with say, the aux lights on, than not.
It will make little to no difference how fast the engine is turning in its case; so at higher rpm (say cruising) its relative power dissipation will be the same as at idle.
Note also that with a Shunt Regulator, reducing the bike's load with say, LED lights will make zero difference in reducing its temperature - indeed to the contrary, if you turned the lights off altogether, the Shunt device is actually going to get HOTTER! (because it has to shunt even more current to make up for what the bike is not consuming);
However with a Series R/R, reducing that bikes load (e.g. LED headlight and aux lights) will actually mean less current conducted through the R/R so will indeed actually run cooler than with std components.

I would have thought there would not be a significant difference whichever way round it was mounted in that location.
The simple test is to go on a good ride and check the temp when you get back;
You could also run it at idle with zero air-flow over it and see how hot it gets in that condition.
I did that test with mine (bike static) and the temperature rise was not excessive.
My bike runs similar load to a Std/Roadster, with twin headlights; the Touring (with single headlight) is running less load (not accounting for any accessories that may be on)

Note that in your respective cases, you cannot simply compare the temp of one vs the other (for fins facing in or out in approx same location) - you have to also know that the load on each is the same. i.e. if one of you has LED lights and the other std, it will make a difference.
 
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I did some quick looks, and it's possible I may be able to position the SH847 in the same location as the original, attach ONE mounting screw, and secure it with a couple or three zip ties all round. I could preserve the canister and it's plumbing that way, but that may get ditched anyway if it turns into a trouble source which it might.
 

It certainly would not fit that way on my Roadster and I think Joesmoe (Paul) found the same on his Tourer. On my Roadster it will not physically fit in that space and engage either bolt thread and as Paul noted in Bad Voltage Regulator ...OR? the extra depth of the finning also means you would risk (or could even not avoid) the prop drive shaft hitting it with suspension movement.

Mine which I got 2nd hand with some mods done already, does not have the evaporative emissions canister which may not have been fitted on Australian spec models. I know we did not get cats in the exhaust collector tube of the '06 Sprint ST 1050 with underseat muffler can like US and Euro models did.
 
Well that's good info....I'll do Paul's mounting method if I cannot get a good mounting closer to stock
 
Nope, you got to put it where the evap cannister goes....it fits no where else. And you have to be creative and fab your own brackets or retaining means.