Ignition switch, will TRIUMPH stand by it's product

Joesmoe said:

.... The as-delivered ignition switch has a 'run' position and a spring-loaded 'start' position.

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OK - you mean the bar switch as opposed to the key-switch i.e. the Run/Kill switch and the Start switch
Whether you turn off the key, or turn the Kill/Run to Kill, the actual 'ignition' circuit breaks at the same node (they are actually in series in the conventional OEM set-up)
The main difference between the key-off and 'kill-off' is that the key additionally breaks power (through separate poles) to non-ignition circuits i.e. the lighting and ancillaries (horn, turns, brake etc)

Might you explain how yours does this? For example, sometimes, if the bike has been sitting a while, it can be useful to have the fuel pump cycle a few times be turning the key to 'run' without starting.

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Well, I would debate the requirement of having to do this - the pump runs for several seconds when ignition system is first powered and should be plenty adequate time to bring the fuel rail to pressure.
However, if you needed to do this, you would do essentially the same thing:
The difference now is that the Kill/Run switch now controls ALL the functions - instead of the Kill switch only being in the main 'ignition' circuit, it also interrupts the feedback to my controller, which keeps the ignition system latched on; so setting to Kill actually drops all the relays (including the one providing power to the Kill/Runswitch to begin with!) mimicking the same effect that turning off the key would have had.
So - you just want to do the same thing, which is simply turning the ignition on, then off, then on again:
System dis-armed (which it would be automatically if you are at bike with remote on your person)
Kill Switch to run
Pull (& release)* clutch - ignition system turns on (fuel pump will prime etc)
Set Kill/Run to Kill - ignition system turns off
Set Kill/Run Switch to Run
Pull clutch - Ignition system turns back on (fuel pump will prime again)
Press start then release clutch.

* For normal starting you wouldn't typically release the clutch - in one action, you pull clutch, let it complete its prime, then press start & release clutch when started (as you normally would)

As I think about it you wouldn't even need to release the clutch to do a double-prime - set kill to run, pull clutch, ignition comes on, primes, set kill to kill, set kill back to run, ignition comes on, start & go.

Also, after installing your kit, I presume one would still carry a key to use the bar lock feature, as well as secure the paniers (R3T here) ?

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Yes of course.
On my own bike the only thing I use key for is the gas-cap. I removed my switch completely, I prefer a disc lock over the key-switch lock anyway (a xena xx14 with the motion detector alarm is my own choice);
for the seat I have a solenoid operated system (like a car trunk pop) in place of the original key-lock for that.

As usual, you have a wonderfully detailed and understandable (almost) description, and sounds good.

Now for the easy part:

With your kit installed (NO connection to the existing key switch), what is the normal operation ?

Joesmoe said:

...With your kit installed (NO connection to the existing key switch), what is the normal operation ?

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Setting the Kill switch to Run and then pulling the clutch mimics the same behaviour as turning on the Key.
Setting the Kill switch to Kill* mimics same behaviour as turning off the key.
That's it in a nutshell.

Even when 'disarmed' it requires a single clutch pull to turn on ignition if it is currently off.
i.e. if ignition was on, but you set to Kill, turning it back to Run does not immediately turn it back on again until you pull the clutch.

When system is 'armed' (i.e. remote is NOT in range) then no combination of Kill/Run or Clutch will turn it on.

My personal process is that in typical everyday use, when I 'Kill' to shut it down, I then flip the switch back to the 'Run' position ready for my return.
This is personal preference - some may just leave it in Kill until returning to the bike, makes no difference to the sequence.

* The difference between Kill before and Kill now, is that in OEM Kill would only shut off the ignition circuit - leave the lights and horn/turns/stop functions alive
(that is the reason for the caution in the operators manual over using the key to shut it down, rather than the Kill switch - it has nothing to do with any urban legend about being 'bad' for the ignition system if the Kill is used - it is simply that you may 'forget' to then turn off the key which will leave your bike alive and potentially drain battery - or worse, you walk off with key still in it)

Now, the Kill function will drop ALL the circuits.
That does not mean all the system power flows through the Kill switch - it simply provides feedback to the controller to keep it enabled and once removed, it kills the controller output which then shuts off ALL the relays (or PDM60 for those so equipped)

As I also installed a seat that doesnt have a key my recently completed project elim8nated the key altogether as I changed out to a keyless gas cap so the only function for the key now is to lock the bars which I dont do unless Im at a hotel or other public place where I cant monitor the bike all the time

R3Tex said:

As I also installed a seat that doesnt have a key ....

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That's a fairly big exposure, I would say, especially with all the gear you have under there, Tex ......

The caution states to use the key rather than the kill for reasons stated - that's what was intended in my description although I can see how you might have interpreted 'over' as 'against'
ie it's not a caution AGAINST using key - it's caution TO use key

For Neanderthals like me, it means use the key (not kill) so you don't walk off and leave the lights burning and come back to a dead battery

Howdy folks,
Old forum, guess I'll go buy the keyless kit. Bought my Rocket used back in 11, had to replace the ignition in 12, left it at the bike doc... you guessed it, ignition is bad again. Called up Triumph, "Oh, that VIN has had the ignition replaced three times, and it's not under warranty. You have to buy a new one". Wouldn't budge.

Case #00656231 if anyone cares.

Eugene Yeo said:

Howdy folks,
Old forum, guess I'll go buy the keyless kit. Bought my Rocket used back in 11, had to replace the ignition in 12, left it at the bike doc... you guessed it, ignition is bad again. Called up Triumph, "Oh, that VIN has had the ignition replaced three times, and it's not under warranty. You have to buy a new one". Wouldn't budge.

Case #00656231 if anyone cares.

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Has the bike had a relay kit installed? This will take the headlight load away from the ignition switch. That is the primary cause of the switch failures which will continue until the fix is installed. It is possible to pull the switch apart and resolder the melted connections to effect a repair and save $$$$