Ignition switch failure/ headlight relay kit

[UNCLE JESSE]

if you have any problems let me know I can draw you a simple to follow wireing diagram the thing to remembers is to make sure you use Quality parts 30amp 5pin relays are the first step 30+ amp wire to go from battery for positive power, as well as negative earth from battery to the relays the the other wires can be a bit lighter gauge also solder all joints and go mad with heat shrink tubing and put a 30 amp heavy duty fuse holder (blade fuse perfered) in the positive feed wire from battery

I thought I would just use the lighting harness that was on the bike and just attach relays to it under the tank extremely simple when you get to looking at it have less than $20 after tubing and all the connectors and relays not that bad.

 

[HansO]

imho if you own a Rocket III any year or model YOUR IGNITION SWITCH WILL FAIL At Some time.. I highly suggest you keep an emergency bypass kit on the bike at all times.

Kit

1) 12V toggle switch / with 12 inch 14guage leads
3) wire nuts 1 yellow 2 orange
1) Roll of electrical tape

Tools

Wire stripper / cutters
Enough tools to lift tank

You have been warned

A Bloody good idea if you haven't done the headlight relay mod trick,
On that note any adition you make to your bike eg Heated Grips, Air horn etc you should run through a Relay

 

[HansO]

I thought I would just use the lighting harness that was on the bike and just attach relays to it under the tank extremely simple when you get to looking at it have less than $20 after tubing and all the connectors and relays not that bad.

yeah that all it cost me you cut the wires just under the right side of the tank where they come out of the main harness the wireing to the light from that point is fine to use, you only need to add enough wire to allow you to put the relay back under the tank, when you cut the wire there is an extra wire going to the park light don't cut it and you cut both (dual headlights on std, clasics) sets of wires come from under the tank but you insulate and not use one set as you only need one set to switch relay you just take one (low beam) to one relay and the other (high beam) to the other relay.
I used 30amp heavy duty (insulated) daul core wire (spliced extra wire for second relay at relay end you are only useing one relay at a time) from battery for both positive and negative you could get your negative by just earthing to the frame but from past experiences I have found it better to get it directly from battery

Just Remember to make All connection good and solid by Soldering and throughally Insullating remember Heat Shrink tubbing is your friend

 

[HellFire]

... remember Heat Shrink tubbing is your friend

It is until that one time you forget to put it on the wire prior to soldering the connection. LOL
I do that at least once on each project.

 

[nolton]

So who is installing mine?

 

[HansO]

So who is installing mine?

put your bike on a raft and start swimming with the tow rope between your teeth

 

[eem1911]

Beaver relay

What is the primary use for this relay?

 

[eem1911]

R3 Trailer

How does your bike handle in turns towing that trailer loaded to capacity?

 

[CanberraR3]

If you're nice to me Hanso, I'll let you help me install mine.....

 

[HansO]

How does your bike handle in turns towing that trailer loaded to capacity?

Quite well but like driveing a car with a trailer or Caravan you need to adjust your speed and style eg slow down a bit

What is the primary use for this relay?

The relay or relays are to take the load of the ignition switch which can't handle the load and will eventually self destruct as many have found out, I heard about just after getting my Rocket, sussed it out and sorted it, no more worries, other makers stopped doing this stupid thing of run all the power through the ignition switch years ago

By the way Welcome to the site, you should go to the new members page and everyone will welcome you, where you from