Well for the dumb question of the day. Does this relay circuit for the headlights have a direct feed off of the battery so that headline power does not run through the switch at all helping to keep switch cool ?
Yup, that's the idea ... direct feed off the battery through heavy gauge wire and relays straight to the lights. Just the bypass alone is enough benefit to justify the mod, the lights brighten and visibility increases 5 fold. The "practical" benefit is of course the ignition switch, but even if you think your switch is immune because it's lasted this long, the new whiteness and brightness of the headlights should make you happy enough to justify the cost.
Yup, that's the idea ... direct feed off the battery through heavy gauge wire and relays straight to the lights. Just the bypass alone is enough benefit to justify the mod, the lights brighten and visibility increases 5 fold. The "practical" benefit is of course the ignition switch, but even if you think your switch is immune because it's lasted this long, the new whiteness and brightness of the headlights should make you happy enough to justify the cost.
thank you Hellfire I was figuring that but wanted to make sure the extra running lights that they have put on the tour is causing more amp draw also. I was noticing that other people with more running lights problem only gets worse, I will check into relay. I have all my other electronics on separate wire and switch and fuse to battery.
I installed the EB H4 Rely kit about a month ago, and in my opinion it is a "must" for any R3 owners of earlier models (mine is a 2006 Classic). I was hesitant at first, as I really have no skills when it comes to electrical and wiring. However, there are a couple of very good tutorials on this forum that are a tremendous help and can assist you with the install. In all, once you figure out how the relay attaches to your wire harness via the posi-locks, the entire job takes about 45 minutes. Raise and prop the tank, unplug the existing harness and pull the headlight bulbs, install the new bulb/holders and then the relay to the harness, run wires to battery...you are done.
I had the ignition switch failure, had the solders re-done inside the ignition barrel to get her back on the road, and then decided to install the relay kit. $75 well spent.
Well for the dumb question of the day. Does this relay circuit for the headlights have a direct feed off of the battery so that headline power does not run through the switch at all helping to keep switch cool ?
only a very low current will go through the ignition switch for the relay switch and yes it will keep it cool the irony of it all is that Triumph choose to feed the main power through it in the first place most motorbikes have not used this way for decades,
if any body doesn't want to spend the dollrs on the eastern beaver kit you can make your own harness for a fraction of the cost al you need is a bit of basic wiring knowledge
That is what I was thinking I have some of those relays laying in my shop not quite as fancy used mine on air horns, I'll need to check my wiring diagram.
That is what I was thinking I have some of those relays laying in my shop not quite as fancy used mine on air horns, I'll need to check my wiring diagram.
You can go to Eastern Beaver's website and see how his are laid out, it's a simple circuit and not any trade secret, EB just does high quality work with quality parts. I'm sure his diagrams will help you build and install your own.
That is what I was thinking I have some of those relays laying in my shop not quite as fancy used mine on air horns, I'll need to check my wiring diagram.
if you have any problems let me know I can draw you a simple to follow wireing diagram the thing to remembers is to make sure you use Quality parts 30amp 5pin relays are the first step 30+ amp wire to go from battery for positive power, as well as negative earth from battery to the relays the the other wires can be a bit lighter gauge also solder all joints and go mad with heat shrink tubing and put a 30 amp heavy duty fuse holder (blade fuse perfered) in the positive feed wire from battery
imho if you own a Rocket III any year or model YOUR IGNITION SWITCH WILL FAIL At Some time.. I highly suggest you keep an emergency bypass kit on the bike at all times.
Kit
1) 12V toggle switch / with 12 inch 14guage leads
3) wire nuts 1 yellow 2 orange
1) Roll of electrical tape
Tools