Idle is over 2700 rpm Help

[1K9]

Disconnect the Stepper Motor to see what happens.

 

[warp9.9]

Not the way I'd normally suggest, but if you read his post I was responding to, he said that he had already messed with it. My idea was just to see if he had caused the issue by the adjustment.

Ok bud I didn't catch that. I just wanted to make clear that screw is a throttle closed stop. Its in the area that is spring loaded. A area the stepper motor is calibrated to and allows the stepper motor to adjust the idle without rotating any of the throttle cables and wheel mechanisms. Once you screw in the stop FORCING it open and past the spring loaded area thats where the hand takes over. If you crank it open without making any changes you are also moving things one might not realize. Crank it enough open say to raise the idle and your actually trying to pull the stepper motor shaft out of the motor. Not to mention rotating the throttle shaft and thus the primary TPS and its .60 set point. A couple times and if your lucky the stepper motor nut and washers will fall on the floor verses falling off when your riding down the road. Ya if you could picture it how it rotates the cam bush further past the intial .5mm setting. So in the iscv you have the back the nut out more and the locking area of the nut won't grip. Plus you would also after opening the throttle past the
60 volt location you will end up resetion the tps so it thinks its not open as far. When I say this I'm not talking about the ones that set it at .63 and second setting at .75 I agree with them because of signal lag and tolerances. Anyway I wasn't trying to rub anyone wrong just trying to get attentions so screws do not get turned that should not be. I have had to help 3 guys unscrew the muck up by moving that stop screw when it shouldn't be
Thats why its paint marked. Anuway please except my apology oh great huge grizzly bear looking feller my typing finger has been cut off and reattached so it doesn't even work good for picking your nose

 

[Steel]

Ok bud I didn't catch that. I just wanted to make clear that screw is a throttle closed stop. Its in the area that is spring loaded. A area the stepper motor is calibrated to and allows the stepper motor to adjust the idle without rotating any of the throttle cables and wheel mechanisms. Once you screw in the stop FORCING it open and past the spring loaded area thats where the hand takes over. If you crank it open without making any changes you are also moving things one might not realize. Crank it enough open say to raise the idle and your actually trying to pull the stepper motor shaft out of the motor. Not to mention rotating the throttle shaft and thus the primary TPS and its .60 set point. A couple times and if your lucky the stepper motor nut and washers will fall on the floor verses falling off when your riding down the road. Ya if you could picture it how it rotates the cam bush further past the intial .5mm setting. So in the iscv you have the back the nut out more and the locking area of the nut won't grip. Plus you would also after opening the throttle past the
60 volt location you will end up resetion the tps so it thinks its not open as far. When I say this I'm not talking about the ones that set it at .63 and second setting at .75 I agree with them because of signal lag and tolerances. Anyway I wasn't trying to rub anyone wrong just trying to get attentions so screws do not get turned that should not be. I have had to help 3 guys unscrew the muck up by moving that stop screw when it shouldn't be
Thats why its paint marked. Anuway please except my apology oh great huge grizzly bear looking one my typing finger has been cut off and reattached so it doesn't even work good for picking your nose

All good my brother. I figured you had missed the part where he had already moved it.

 

[RIII Forever]

also I tried to reset the iscv and at the restart it went to 2700 rpm with small strokes of gas it went down and then it went up again, I had to redo the adjustment several times because the volt of the step by step motor at a certain point kept 0.63 a little more than the tps and not I understood why they no longer went to 0.70 / 0.71 to be able to adjust it.
In the end after 8 times I managed to get everything back to normal but my initial problem remained, that the minimum remains high (1200 rpm) if a gas stroke is not given

 

[1K9]

also I tried to reset the iscv and at the restart it went to 2700 rpm with small strokes of gas it went down and then it went up again, I had to redo the adjustment several times because the volt of the step by step motor at a certain point kept 0.63 a little more than the tps and not I understood why they no longer went to 0.70 / 0.71 to be able to adjust it.
In the end after 8 times I managed to get everything back to normal but my initial problem remained, that the minimum remains high (1200 rpm) if a gas stroke is not given

Bad stepper motor or stepper linkage not moving freely. Just trash the stepper motor maaan. Adjust the idle hard stop to 900 and idle happily ever after.

 

[RIII Forever]

thanks you so much

 

[BDClone]

From what I have read it sounds like you are doing the ISCV reset wrong. If there is not vacuum leaks which from the tune ecu screen all 3 cylinders look close. Not sure if they were that close or out further. If one is way out it would point to a vacuum leak. If you mess with the throttle close stop screw ( some people actually think its a idle adjustment screw I asure you it is not and if you jack with it you can adjust it so much you will not be able to do the ISCV reset because the nut on the stepper motor will be so far out it will be loose on the threads. If anyone tells you to turn a screw and see if the idle changes that is someone you should not listen to sorry if thats upsetting to some. Also the .5mm setting is a initial setting WHEN YOU ARE INSTALLING A NEW STEPPER MOTOR!!!!!!! It is a preliminary setting only. That is set before you have tune ecu linked to the bike because the stepper motor is not even plugged in yet!!!!!! As for the throttle cables they should have 3mm freeplay. Pull cable is checked at the hand grip. Return cable is checked down where it is mounted above the cable wheel.

Yes I mucked it up. I did mess with the nut on the end of the of the throttle bodies.... throttle close stop screw?
I am currently running Ramair filter and Carpenter sidewinder exhaust. Both installed last April and May, dyno ... all good. More recently I started getting a fluctuation while idling and a couple of times it stalled while idling when warm. I would have to give it a little throttle but then it cleared up.
Now 2 weeks ago I started getting a check engine light. I plugged into the bike Code 301, found my Ramair extension cable had a split. Currently have to sensor plugged back into the original plug and cleared the code. Decided to check the throttle balance. They were bouncing between 610 and 670. Number 1 tended to be higher than 2 and 3 tended to be lower. I balanced the throttle bodies and decided I do the ISCV adjustment in TuneECU. This is where I mucked it up and it goes haywire...
Also @warp9.9 I may have over tightened the TPS screw when I first tried to do the reset

 

[warp9.9]

Yes I mucked it up. I did mess withthe nut on the end of the of the throttle bodies.... throttle close stop screw?
I am currently running Ramair filter and Carpenter sidewinder exhaust. Both installed last April and May, dyno ... all good. More recently I started getting a fluctuation while idling and a couple of times it stalled while idling when warm. I would have to give it a little throttle but then it cleared up.
Now 2 weeks ago I started getting a check engine light. I plugged into the bike Code 301, found my Ramair extension cable had a split. Currently have to sensor plugged back into the original plug and cleared the code. Decided to check the throttle balance. They were bouncing between 610 and 670. Number 1 tended to be higher than 2 and 3 tended to be lower. I balanced the throttle bodies and decided I do the ISCV adjustment in TuneECU. This is where I mucked it up and it goes haywire...
Also @warp9.9 I may have over tightened the TPS screw when I first tried to do the reset

Ok I have to read this a few more times to help me think. But first my thoughts are once the AIT plug started throwing the light or throwing a bad signal for how many test cycles it runs. Did it start some fuel adaptations trying to make up for it. Also have you checked the low tension leads to the coils? When stumbling that is always the first place I look since yours is newer you might need to tighten the little female spade connectors. A little squeeze with needle nose pliers. Especially since you had to move stuff around rehooking the AIT back to its original plug configuration. That's all right around the wiring to the front number 1 coil and a little around the leads to the number 2 coil. Anyway let me season my steak and give some more thought to it.

 

[BDClone]

Ok the bike is running but still need a few adjustments I think. @warp9.9 tell me if I am wrong but as I adjust the throttle stop nut it seems like I have to adjust TPS as well. I had to rebalance throttle bodies. Running 12 min tune now. Idle should be 1000 or 900 rpm and currently at 1300 rpm. Will check again after tune
Thank you to everyone for you responses and help.

 

[warp9.9]

Ok the bike is running but still need a few adjustments I think. @warp9.9 tell me if I am wrong but as I adjust the throttle stop nut it seems like I have to adjust TPS as well. I had to rebalance throttle bodies. Running 12 min tune now. Idle should be 1000 or 900 rpm and currently at 1300 rpm. Will check again after tune
Thank you to everyone for you responses and help.

You are correct when you move the throttle stop it does move the PRIMARY TPS. Because you rotated the primary throttle shaft. Also any balancing of the throttle bodies technically can change the PRIMARY TPS SETTING also because all primary throttle shafts are moved some while balancing. Again depending on which way they are moved. In some cases during balancing the TPS setting could move in both directions canceling the movement of the shafts it really depends on the adjustment directions. We must remember the TPS does not realize there are three primary throttle plate shafts in line it thinks everything is one shaft. But if it were you would not be able to independently adjust each one to alter the vacuum readings. Thats probably part of the reason things are spring loaded. One should keep that in mind. Along with why does the throttle move during idle yet the throttle wheel and hand grip does not. And how powerful is this stepper motor when its forced to move things its not normally supposed to? Now add in the wrong cable adjustment or setting with springs inbetween each throttle body you could have things binding or maybe flexing is a better word. So as things flex does it force the engine to hunt for a idle position? After all your in a area percentage wise that the idle movements are determined but three different vacuum readings from three seperate throttle bodies in theory trying to act as one. And a few other sensors adding to the math equation. Yes that could all add up to a hunting idle problem.

Now I won't mention the individuals name that just recently found out doing this can make the stepper motor nut be so far out on the stepper motor shaft that you could move the nut without a wrench. Yes if done too much it would eventually fall of the stepper motor shaft while idling or even while riding down the road.

So yes everytime you turn a screw on a set of throttle bodies it can be like making up to 3 different adjustments along the chain of throttle bodies.
.
Why one could get it so jacked up that the only way to get her to idle half arsed is to unhook the stepper motor so it quits trying to adjust for the mutiple sensor signals times 3 cylinders, that the ecu uses to obtain a idle. Or any other running condition like contemplating deceleration throttle settings. Heck that could make her stumble and die as I stopped at a light. Kind of like throttle linkage constantly flexing.

Now this was not meant to scare anyone. Its just a way to get some people to think before they say or adjust this, turn that and unhook this and the problem is solved. Or unhook the stepper motor and the problem you caused turning this and adjusting that won't be noticed as much.

I learned a lot of this dealing with a supercharger kit that the installation was based on unhook the idle stepper controlling mechanism and the map sensor and put some electrical tape on the speedo to help you ignore the engine light you created . What the heck we can get some computer guru to eliminate that light verses tape over it. Then we tell ourselves the bike don't need that.

Or lets do some math, but before you do that let me randomly erase some of the numbers you need to do the math. Isn't that just like taking a crap pulling your pants up and then try wiping your arse? (then asking yourself why your arse is chapped?)

Again this is meant to get us to think of the big picture. Or we might as well go back to points, carburators, and no computers
Dang I need another cup