How to remove ignition switch from Roadster?

[Journeyman]

My switch is going bad and I need to quit putting off the repair. I suspect that one or more wires have come loose or are loose and just barely making enough contact (most of the time).

My question is what's involved in getting the switch out? I know that I'll be running into some bolts with smooth heads that are a PIA, but first I need to get the chrome cover off. It looks like it will need to push forward- what's holding it in position? I don't want to remove the top triple tree only to find out that wasn't necessary (probably is).

This is a common repair, so surely a couple of you guys can tell me what kind of fun I can look forward to.

 

[CrzystghndKC]

My switch is going bad and I need to quit putting off the repair. I suspect that one or more wires have come loose or are loose and just barely making enough contact (most of the time).

My question is what's involved in getting the switch out? I know that I'll be running into some bolts with smooth heads that are a PIA, but first I need to get the chrome cover off. It looks like it will need to push forward- what's holding it in position? I don't want to remove the top triple tree only to find out that wasn't necessary (probably is).

This is a common repair, so surely a couple of you guys can tell me what kind of fun I can look forward to.

I've never heard of a Triumph switch going bad?

 

[idk]

The manual is in my signature link. The most difficult part is removing the 2 tamper proof bolts. Replace them with regular bolts. Resolder the wire which has come off. Put back together.

Then make a keyless system, also in my link.

 

[Journeyman]

OK. I'm an idiot. With the sport screen on I didn't see this huge frigg'n bolt. Now, knowing where it is, it's obviously in plain sight.

I read where someone had said you have to take off the top triple clamp and I guess that led me to believe that it was more complicated than it really is. Other than the tamper proof bolts it should be pretty straightforward- famous last words.

 

[Frans]

This is a common repair, so surely a couple of you guys can tell me what kind of fun I can look forward to.

Been there, done that Horn/brake light/turn indicators not working all the time

 

[TURBO200R4]

more than likely there is a bad fuse.
cant remember which one but if u take a 12 volt test light turn ignition on hook test light clamp to ground then probe the point of test lite to each side of fuse when u get one side of fuse lights and the other side dont lite then that is your bad fuse
hth herman

 

[TURBO200R4]

ps it could also be ignition switch

 

[Journeyman]

OK- just in case someone comes along and wants to see an explanation, here's where one of the tamper proof screws is located.....

I was able to get a Dremel tool in there to grind off the heads.

Lots of tabs on the thing, but the two pointed out here are the ones to free to open it up. All my solders were good, but the red wire was broken inside the sheath about an inch from the solder. The yellow wire was stripped back about 3/4" from the solder. I cut both and soldered in more wire to replace the bad sections, removed the old, and then soldered the replacement wires to the connections. Reinforced the cable quite a bit and filled in the areas where the Dremel gouged the plastic. I filed that down and drilled out the holes. Replaced the screws with stainless socket heads. Everything is working so far.

 

[Gerald]

OK- just in case someone comes along and wants to see an explanation, here's where one of the tamper proof screws is located.....

I was able to get a Dremel tool in there to grind off the heads.

Lots of tabs on the thing, but the two pointed out here are the ones to free to open it up. All my solders were good, but the red wire was broken inside the sheath about an inch from the solder. The yellow wire was stripped back about 3/4" from the solder. I cut both and soldered in more wire to replace the bad sections, removed the old, and then soldered the replacement wires to the connections. Reinforced the cable quite a bit and filled in the areas where the Dremel gouged the plastic. I filed that down and drilled out the holes. Replaced the screws with stainless socket heads. Everything is working so far.

I was able to get a small pair of needle nose locking pliers to clamp the posts and back them out.

 

[r3badboy]

Buy a Guard Dog Keyless Ignition....plug & play, easy to install. You can still use your key to lock steering.