How To: Fit TTS Supercharger Kit (photo heavy)

[Plutonium]

Whow

 

[bebsy]

113. On coil #3, swap coil-to-plug HT leads #5 & #6 around, so they will fit/not stretched/not kinked. You might need to make up short extensions for the wiring harness connections to coil #3 – I found the stock connectors’ wires were too short to reach correctly, plus they were too bulky to fit in between the coil and the cross over pipe, so made these extensions;

114. Fit the little plastic brackets for the tank prop wand to the coil brackets. Fit the silicone hose joiner on the other end of the 2” cross over pipe, not forgetting the hose clamps, to the supercharger outlet (Stage 1) or the intercooler top (Stage 2)

115. Load approx. 4.5L new oil into the engine (refer to manual section 9.7), and fill up with coolant (Evans Waterless or Engine Ice/Triumph coolant combo recommended) through the radiator cap as per manual section 12.5 including bleeding (tip: have the bike tilted to the right in order for all the air to move toward the bleed screw)

116. Install the coolant expansion bottle and fill it up to the MAX mark – should have used about 3.2L of coolant at that stage

117. Take the fuel pump, fuel level float & fuel pressure regulator assembly from the tank as per manual section 11.155 (Touring 11.159), switch out the fuel pump with the Walbro GSS 342 (it's a direct replacement, same fittings/size/connector etc) as per manual section 11.158 (Touring 11.163) - then refit fuel tank as per manual section 11.150 (11.154 Touring)

118. Refit any other parts you still have lying about and take the bike back down onto the floor – reconnect the battery – only the seat should remain off at this point

119. Connect up to the bike with computer, switch on ignition and load the new map into the ECU

120. Perform an ISCV reset

121. Run the tests e.g. fan, fuel pump, secondary throttles, idle stepper etc – to confirm all is wired back up again ok

122. TTS state – “the bike really needs to be run on at least 97 ron octane fuel (93 average method). If this is a problem, then the ECU map must be adjusted to have less ignition advance than standard”
So make sure you drain your fuel tank and fill up with this

Note: you can run the bike around idle and low RPM & throttle positions safely until you get it to a dyno where ignition can be adjusted

123. Put on some safety goggles and tape some protective boards to your person, have a camera rolling and start the bike – run for 30 seconds and shut down

124. Top up oil as per section 9.7

125. Run the bike again and keep an eye on the supercharger traction fluid/oil level in the canister – the level needs to be checked when the bike is running only, and should be a 1/3 way up the dipstick with the stick NOT screwed in, with the engine running – if it is over-filled then the traction fluid will be blown out of the cap and makes a mess

126. If you are NOT using a MAP sensor – when all the levels are correct and with the bike warmed up the idle can be set to about 850rpm with the throttle stop grub screw

127. If you ARE using a MAP sensor, prop up the tank and with the computer still connected, check throttle balance – if you are not using the MAP sensor, you will need to balance the throttles using a manometer or 3 oil-dampened vacuum gauges

128. You are now ready to take the bike out for its 1st Supercharged spin – but be careful – you need to exercise discipline, and run the bike for 200 miles using no more than 50% throttle and 3500rpm – this is to allow the supercharger etc to bed in – it is also recommended that you do this run in period in short journeys say 10-20 miles and check bolts are still tight and belt is not getting frayed off of something, etc. The critical ones to check are the M6 bolts that hold on the front engine cover, the M6 bolts holding on the crank spigot bearing housing, the crank pulley bolt/nut, the slave cylinder locknut (chances are the bullnose and locknut will need adjusting once or twice over the first 100 miles), and the clutch reservoir fluid level.

129. You must then take the bike to a dyno to get checked for tune – this is a necessity

130. Now you can take the bike for a proper spin! But be careful, work your way up, get used to the new power level

Additional Maintenance for Supercharged Bikes

Note this is an amalgamation of manufacturer’s recommendation and my own suggestions



Every 1000 miles:

• Check hydraulic clutch reservoir level
• 
  
• Check belt tension
• 
  
• Check condition of belt
• 
  
• Check level of traction fluid (engine running for this one)
• 
  
• Check all bolts holding front engine cover on, all bolts holding crank spigot bearing housing on, and clutch cover on, and the crank pulley bolt/nut (use torque wrench), clutch slave cylinder nuts are all still secure

Every 5000 miles:

• Complete 1000 mile checks
• 
  
• Remove and clean BOV
• 
  
• Clean and re-oil air filter

Every 50,000 miles or 2 years (whichever comes first):

• Complete 1000 mile checks
• 
  
• Complete 5000 mile checks
• 
  
• Change supercharger traction fluid / oil and filter

Awesome very well documented thanks for taking the time, it's been on the wishlist for a long while, I only live a few hours from the TTS factory in the UK , didn't realise there was so much involved on install which has paused me in my tracks thankfully your other YouTube clips have helped me along the way with other tasks... Cheers

 

[fastfun]

76. Remove the left side handlebar controls – you will need to cut the stock clutch lever bracket off the front half of the switch housing to make room for the TTS hydraulic clutch lever

77. Sand it down and get it painted or powdercoated (you’ll also be hacking up the ignition coil #2 & #3 bracket shortly, which will also need paint or powdercoat)

78. Including the modified Triumph switch housing, fit the TTS hydraulic clutch lever to the handlebar – note if you have or want to have heated grips, you will need to drill a new hole in the handlebar, as the OEM one is covered up by the TTS hydraulic clutch lever bracket – tighten the upper bolt first then the lower one, torque spec is a nice hand squeeze, say 18 ft lb / 25nm

hydraulic clutch lever is a cheap chinese(?) piece of s***. After some time the leverpressure suddenly is gone. And at that moment you will see, there you are, on a road in the middle of nowhere.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

hydraulic clutch lever is a cheap chinese(?) piece of s***. After some time the leverpressure suddenly is gone. And at that moment you will see, there you are, on a road in the middle of nowhere.

Please read link at bottom of step 81.

How To: Fit TTS Supercharger Kit (photo heavy)

72. Run the supercharger outlet hose across the front of the engine, tucked under the lower radiator mounts, and up over the engine coolant expansion bottle, under the left chassis spine to where the oil filter will be 73. Fit the oil filter, taking care to have it in the right direction...

www.r3owners.net

 

[fastfun]

Please read link at bottom of step 81.

How To: Fit TTS Supercharger Kit (photo heavy)

72. Run the supercharger outlet hose across the front of the engine, tucked under the lower radiator mounts, and up over the engine coolant expansion bottle, under the left chassis spine to where the oil filter will be 73. Fit the oil filter, taking care to have it in the right direction...

www.r3owners.net

That time my clutch issues did concern both parts but here I meant the master. as chinese s*** But the oberon was also a nice piece of work.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

That time my clutch issues did concern both parts but here I meant the master. as chinese s*** But the oberon was also a nice piece of work.

Yes that thread also covers the master, where the TTS supplied one was found to be an Alibaba, Wish special, the el cheapo we called it, and a few guys had replaced theirs with other alternatives. Me for example moved to a Triumph one from a 2014 Tiger Explorer 1200.

 

[fastfun]

Yes that thread also covers the master, where the TTS supplied one was found to be an Alibaba, Wish special, the el cheapo we called it, and a few guys had replaced theirs with other alternatives. Me for example moved to a Triumph one from a 2014 Tiger Explorer 1200.

I moved to a Brembo one, less lever pinchforce too ,despite stronger clutchplatesprings. Another thing to beware of was (mine issue) the oberon slavecylinder was creating a vacuum under the closed tts cap ,so in time engineoil was sucking in along the slavecylinderseals. I did sort it out by fixing a airbypass on the cap.