How To: Fit TTS Supercharger Kit (photo heavy)

[R-III-R Turbo]

72. Run the supercharger outlet hose across the front of the engine, tucked under the lower radiator mounts, and up over the engine coolant expansion bottle, under the left chassis spine to where the oil filter will be

73. Fit the oil filter, taking care to have it in the right direction, and the hose from the oil filter to the outlet (bottom) of the canister/bottle/catch can

74. Now the traction fluid / oil circuit is complete, ensure you have jubilee clips, ear clamps or similar to hold the oil hoses onto the fittings all around the circuit

75. Follow the Rotrex instructions for priming of the oil circuit;

Note: I used the El-Cheapo method of a plastic syringe with an o-ring superglued to it, as a fitting to go over the spout of the oil canister (in lieu of a proper hose tail barbed female fitting), and fed it from an air compressor whose outlet was regulated down to about 10psi – I found that the oil level in the canister dropped from MAX level to MIN level mark when priming was complete i.e. fluid came out the supercharger oil inlet – and then after topping up the canister again to MAX mark, found I had used just over 500ml

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

76. Remove the left side handlebar controls – you will need to cut the stock clutch lever bracket off the front half of the switch housing to make room for the TTS hydraulic clutch lever

77. Sand it down and get it painted or powdercoated (you’ll also be hacking up the ignition coil #2 & #3 bracket shortly, which will also need paint or powdercoat)

78. Including the modified Triumph switch housing, fit the TTS hydraulic clutch lever to the handlebar – note if you have or want to have heated grips, you will need to drill a new hole in the handlebar, as the OEM one is covered up by the TTS hydraulic clutch lever bracket – tighten the upper bolt first then the lower one, torque spec is a nice hand squeeze, say 18 ft lb / 25nm

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

79. You will need to either hack off the OEM clutch switch connectors off the wiring hardness and install female spades, or make adapters to join them up to the TTS clutch switch

80. Take the clutch cover off the front engine cover and take the slave cylinder out of it so you can take it apart for inspection – I recommend this as my first one had a pinched seal so it leaked clutch fluid into the engine (harder to notice than leaking out of the engine), and also the replacement one did too – but upon disassembly I found it could be fixed, just poor assembly at the factory, the seal as only pinched and twisted but not damaged. If you skip this, there's a chance your fluid reserve will drop quick and your clutch won't work anymore, in the middle of a ride

Other captains who've received dodgy slaves @late2ride @fastfun

TTS-Performance Supercharger hydraulic clutch slave cylinder gasket

81. When satisfied that the slave cylinder is assembled correctly, refit it to the clutch cover and fit the clutch cover, including the length of o-ring seal


NOTE: Flaw found with the Oberon CLU 1125 (the clutch slave cylinder) and the master too - see this thread for details and fix;

Hydraulic clutch release went pop

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

82. Fit the clutch hose – or if you are not happy with the length of the supplied clutch hose and ordered a new one that will follow the OEM routing – fit the new hose and fittings including new crush washers

Note: I found the supplied fitting (which threads into the slave cylinder to connect on the clutch line) was too long, and leaked. So I shortened it and used a crush washer, but it still leaked. I bought the (correctly sized) fitting in the screenshot above when buying the new line and banjo, and it fitted perfectly.

83. Put some assembly lube on the face of and thread the bull nose nut onto the clutch pullrod – it should bottom out into the slave, mated perfectly, however I found mine was a slight interference fit and took time to bed in, including multiple pullrod adjustments during the first few hundred miles – bear that in mind

84. Set your pullrod adjustment and torque down the locknut including some medium strength / blue Loctite thread locker – a good squeeze with a spanner, while holding the pullrod static with the largest flat screwdriver that will fit (I use a ratchet with a flat bit, it gives better leverage) – you could also use a spanner on the bullnose nut, but I found it doesn’t get enough purchase to tighten correctly

85. Fill the clutch master cylinder with DOT 4 brake fluid and bleed the system – note the amount the slave cylinder travels when system is fully bled is only about 1.3mm – this has been verified by (a) countless hours bleeding in search of the 3-4mm advised on the phone, and (b) calculation of the master cylinder displacement vs the slave cylinder displacement

86. When happy that the system is completely bled of air, i.e slave cylinder travel is about 1.3mm, fit the slave cylinder cap including the length of o-ring, top up the fluid to the mark and fit the reservoir gasket and cap using

87. If yours is a Stage 1 kit – refit the Triumph radiator as per section 12.14 of the manual – I believe you will need to modify the left radiator shroud so the supercharger oil radiator can be fitted to it – I haven’t done this as mine is a Stage 2 so has the TTS radiator – note that you will need to bend your two lower radiator mount brackets out the way a little, so the new radiator does not foul the belt and pulleys

88. If yours is the Stage 2 kit – bend your two lower radiator mount brackets out the way a little, so the new radiator does not foul the belt and pulleys – this may require putting on the new radiator temporarily and taking it off again to get right

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

89. The stock radiator fan is now too wide for the new TTS radiator – so with it facing down, cut the left side of the plastic housing off, right along the edge of the fan blade circumference

90. Also chamfer the corner, in order to make room for the bypass hose (note from pics above, the nipple is also much longer than stock)

91. Fit the fan to the new radiator, and fit radiator to engine as per manual section 12.14, ensuring the radiator does not foul the belt or belt cover, and fit the oil radiator to the left side of the new radiator – this is also where you fit the recommended Samco hoses

92. Make sure to connect the radiator fan plug

93. Fit the supercharger intake pipe and air filter

94. Fit the intercooler (if Stage 2) including the silicone pipe elbow from supercharger outlet – I had to make a spacer to go between lower intercooler-radiator tabs

95. Fit the air temperature sensor from the old intake ductwork to the supercharger intake pipe, connect it back to the main wiring harness using the supplied extension fly lead

Note – I put a bolt into the air temperature sensor location on the intake pipe, and fitted a new boss to the cross over pipe closer to the throttle manifold, so the air temp sensor could be located there and would get a reading closer to the actual air temp going into throttles

96. Install the K&N 62-1340 filter on the crankcase breather nipple, at the rear of the engine, instead of the short rubber pipe that connects it to the stock air filter box – you will need to remove the right side engine infill panel and loosen the air filter box mounts to do this, it’s quite a tricky fingertip job

97. If you chose to go one step colder with the spark plugs, fit them

98. Remove the old injectors as per manual section 11.192

99. Install the blue ones TTS supplied as per manual section 11.193

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

100. Note – the injectors are a little shorter than the originals so don’t fit into the fuel rail quite as far, but as long as you fit the retaining clips they are perfectly fine. Injector plug adapters have been supplied. Orientate the injectors something like in the photo below and you should be ok – you might need to adjust their orientation later when fitting throttle body and intake manifold, depending on if they clash with anything

101. The TTS instructions specify to remove the Triumph MAP sensor because “it doesn’t like to see boost”. If you choose to do this, you can use the OEM vacuum tubes to plumb into the BOV. However, if you wish to not have a permanent EMS light, there are options. Remember you need a MAP sensor so that throttles can be balanced relatively easily and accurately.

• You can wire up another MAP sensor, say a 2 or 3 bar one – I haven’t done this so can’t speak on it.
• You could ask Alain of TuneECU to disable the MAP fault codes in your map – again I haven’t done this, just an idea.
• What I did was leave the Triumph MAP sensor there, since I run low boost.

In any case, if you want to run a MAP sensor, you will need a 2nd vacuum line. Teeing off the OEM line to the BOV will work poorly, as the vacuum signal to the MAP sensor from the throttles will be detracted from.

The Keihin throttles on the Rocket have a 2nd set of vacuum ports, blanked off unless yours is a California model for example so has the evaporative loss system. So I used this 2nd set of vac ports to plumb up the BOV, with 4mm silicone vacuum tubing. You should keep the OEM vacuum tubes for the MAP sensor, they are the right diameter and length for it to work correctly.

102. The TTS instructions also instruct you to remove the idle speed control stepper motor from the front end of the throttles – this is not necessary – it was put in the instructions at one time to prevent an idle fault some people experienced, however this turned out to be the old primary TPSs that are prone to going faulty

103. Use ear clamps to secure all vacuum hose joints – they will be under positive pressure i.e. boost which will make them likely to blow off unless clamped or lockwired

104. Remove the “blank” hose from each of the “spare” nipples (one per throttle body) so you can plumb in new 4mm vacuum hose. Merge the 3 together hoses together with the 4-way connector, and run another length from the 4-way to the BOV. The hose lengths don’t really matter for the BOV, whereas they really do for the MAP sensor – best to stick with the OEM vac hoses for the MAP sensor.

105. Refit the throttle bodies along with the newly fitted injectors and fuel rail etc as per manual section 11.190. But don’t put the 2 bolts in either end or tighten the clamps on the engine intake rubbers just yet

106. Fit the cross over pipe loosely in place – you will need to lift the throttles back up again slightly so it can pass under the fuel injector rail, once it’s through you can then finish bolting down the throttle bodies and finishing that step

107. When the throttles are fitted, you can install the intake manifold to the throttles and cross over pipe – try to ensure the pipe ends are flush to each other before tightening down the clamps around the silicone joiner pipes – also these clamps should be turned with an Allen bit on a screw driver to hand tight

108. Modify the ignition coil #2 & #3 bracket like in the photo (no need to cut the tab off the coil #2 bracket, despite what the TTS instructions say)

109. Drill a new 6.5 or 7.0mm hole in the corner of coil #3 bracket like in the pic below;

110. Get the coil brackets, left handlebar switch housing, etc (all the bits you’ve modified) painted or powdercoated

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

111. While you’re waiting on the painting or powdercoating, if you have a Roadster (and possibly a Touring with ABS) you will have to do some chassis modification. There is a bracket welded to the right side chassis spine to which one normally clamps down the solid brake lines going from front brake back to the ABS unit. I found this is now in the way of your ignition coil #3. So I had to cut it completely off, sand down and paint the chassis

The lack of this bracket does not adversely impact the security of the solid ABS brake lines imo.


112. Fit coils #2 and #3 to their respective brackets, and then to the bike. There should be a gap between the coils now to allow the 2” cross over pipe through and under the chassis spines and tank

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

113. On coil #3, swap coil-to-plug HT leads #5 & #6 around, so they will fit/not stretched/not kinked. You might need to make up short extensions for the wiring harness connections to coil #3 – I found the stock connectors’ wires were too short to reach correctly, plus they were too bulky to fit in between the coil and the cross over pipe, so made these extensions;

114. Fit the little plastic brackets for the tank prop wand to the coil brackets. Fit the silicone hose joiner on the other end of the 2” cross over pipe, not forgetting the hose clamps, to the supercharger outlet (Stage 1) or the intercooler top (Stage 2)

115. Load approx. 4.5L new oil into the engine (refer to manual section 9.7), and fill up with coolant (Evans Waterless or Engine Ice/Triumph coolant combo recommended) through the radiator cap as per manual section 12.5 including bleeding (tip: have the bike tilted to the right in order for all the air to move toward the bleed screw)

116. Install the coolant expansion bottle and fill it up to the MAX mark – should have used about 3.2L of coolant at that stage

117. Take the fuel pump, fuel level float & fuel pressure regulator assembly from the tank as per manual section 11.155 (Touring 11.159), switch out the fuel pump with the Walbro GSS 342 (it's a direct replacement, same fittings/size/connector etc) as per manual section 11.158 (Touring 11.163) - then refit fuel tank as per manual section 11.150 (11.154 Touring)

118. Refit any other parts you still have lying about and take the bike back down onto the floor – reconnect the battery – only the seat should remain off at this point

119. Connect up to the bike with computer, switch on ignition and load the new map into the ECU

120. Perform an ISCV reset

121. Run the tests e.g. fan, fuel pump, secondary throttles, idle stepper etc – to confirm all is wired back up again ok

122. TTS state – “the bike really needs to be run on at least 97 ron octane fuel (93 average method). If this is a problem, then the ECU map must be adjusted to have less ignition advance than standard”
So make sure you drain your fuel tank and fill up with this

Note: you can run the bike around idle and low RPM & throttle positions safely until you get it to a dyno where ignition can be adjusted

123. Put on some safety goggles and tape some protective boards to your person, have a camera rolling and start the bike – run for 30 seconds and shut down

124. Top up oil as per section 9.7

125. Run the bike again and keep an eye on the supercharger traction fluid/oil level in the canister – the level needs to be checked when the bike is running only, and should be a 1/3 way up the dipstick with the stick NOT screwed in, with the engine running – if it is over-filled then the traction fluid will be blown out of the cap and makes a mess

126. If you are NOT using a MAP sensor – when all the levels are correct and with the bike warmed up the idle can be set to about 850rpm with the throttle stop grub screw

127. If you ARE using a MAP sensor, prop up the tank and with the computer still connected, check throttle balance – if you are not using the MAP sensor, you will need to balance the throttles using a manometer or 3 oil-dampened vacuum gauges

128. You are now ready to take the bike out for its 1st Supercharged spin – but be careful – you need to exercise discipline, and run the bike for 200 miles using no more than 50% throttle and 3500rpm – this is to allow the supercharger etc to bed in – it is also recommended that you do this run in period in short journeys say 10-20 miles and check bolts are still tight and belt is not getting frayed off of something, etc. The critical ones to check are the M6 bolts that hold on the front engine cover, the M6 bolts holding on the crank spigot bearing housing, the crank pulley bolt/nut, the slave cylinder locknut (chances are the bullnose and locknut will need adjusting once or twice over the first 100 miles), and the clutch reservoir fluid level.

129. You must then take the bike to a dyno to get checked for tune – this is a necessity

130. Now you can take the bike for a proper spin! But be careful, work your way up, get used to the new power level

Additional Maintenance for Supercharged Bikes

Note this is an amalgamation of manufacturer’s recommendation and my own suggestions



Every 1000 miles:

• Check hydraulic clutch reservoir level
• 
  
• Check belt tension
• 
  
• Check condition of belt
• 
  
• Check level of traction fluid (engine running for this one)
• 
  
• Check all bolts holding front engine cover on, all bolts holding crank spigot bearing housing on, and clutch cover on, and the crank pulley bolt/nut (use torque wrench), clutch slave cylinder nuts are all still secure

Every 5000 miles:

• Complete 1000 mile checks
• 
  
• Remove and clean BOV
• 
  
• Clean and re-oil air filter

Every 50,000 miles or 2 years (whichever comes first):

• Complete 1000 mile checks
• 
  
• Complete 5000 mile checks
• 
  
• Change supercharger traction fluid / oil and filter

 

[sonny]

Really like this a lot.

 

[stollydriver]

Fantastic and informative write up.