High Speed Wobble - 2008 Touring

Tripps & Canberra
What is the procedure for tightening that headstock bearing?
Just tighten the big bolt between the risers ?
I better check mine too.


Read the manual..page 14.16
The adjuster nut/locknut are under the Chrome cap nut..

Don't forget to slacken the bottom yoke fork tube clamp allen bolts slightly first to allow bearing compression during tightening..

Double check all is secure if your not a mechanic..:cool:
 
I'll be doing this before the riding season gets under way.

My manual says:

15. Adjust the bearing free play as follows:

a) Tighten the adjuster nut to 40 Nm
b) Slacken the adjuster nut fully.
c) Re-tighten the adjuster nut to 6 Nm.
d) Loosen the adjuster nut 90 degrees. Note that there will now be free play present.
e) Hold the adjuster nut in that position while tightening the locknut to 40 Nm.

Does this sound right? I'm in no way a mechanic, but I follow directions as well as anyone with a stick up their jacksie.
 
Someone mentioned the hard bags being a possible contributor. I believe that is the reason that the new Trophy has that funky bag mount that moves through a 5 degree arch. It is supposed to dampen the forces that the bags transfer to the frame at speed.

from WebBikeWorld.com: The Triumph Dynamic Luggage System helps maintain chassis balance by decoupling the mass from the chassis allowing each pannier to move up to a 5 degree arc therefore optimizing stability and refinement.
 
I'll be doing this before the riding season gets under way.

My manual says:

15. Adjust the bearing free play as follows:

a) Tighten the adjuster nut to 40 Nm
b) Slacken the adjuster nut fully.
c) Re-tighten the adjuster nut to 6 Nm.
d) Loosen the adjuster nut 90 degrees. Note that there will now be free play present.
e) Hold the adjuster nut in that position while tightening the locknut to 40 Nm.

F) ENSURE THE ADJUSTER DOES NOT MOVE AS THE LOCK NUT IS TIGHTENED

Does this sound right? I'm in no way a mechanic, but I follow directions as well as anyone with a stick up their jacksie.

Yep your onto it, follow step by step.. SEE F)

The bottom Yoke has 2 allen key wrench bolts on eack fork tube, just loosen enough to ease the grip to allow compression of the bearings, the compression is what gives you the bearing preload. Don't forget to re torque these 4 allen wrench bolts

the 90% back turn on the adjuster nut is to releve the pressure and give Micro clearance in the bearing tapered rollers this prevents any binding or tightness in your steering operation.
If your steering is not smoothly moving when you test ride in other words it feels lumpy then you will need to replace the worn bearings with a R3 OEM approved bearing/seal kit..

The adjuster nut and the Lock nut are very shallow nuts for their size so you will need 2 slim style spanner wrenches to be able to lock the 2 nuts together.
You will see the nuts when you remove the Chrome Cap Nut under the handle bar between the Handle Bar clamps..

Take care to get it right as loosing the front end at speed can be Hazzardous :(:)

http://www.triumphrocket.com/triumph...ice-manual.pdf
 
Yep your onto it, follow step by step..

The bottom Yoke has 2 allen key wrench bolts on eack fork tube, just loosen enough to ease the grip to allow compression of the bearings, the compression is what gives you the bearing preload. Don't forget to re torque these 4 allen wrench bolts

Mine says loosen the top yoke, but I think I understand the 90 degree back off well enough. The 40 Nm gets it really snug, then back off completely, then 6 Nm snugs just enough for the 1/4 turn counter clockwise to be perfect. Yup, those two slim wrenches will get me doing some jury rigging, to be sure.

Thanks for your input.
 
Mine says loosen the top yoke, but I think I understand the 90 degree back off well enough. The 40 Nm gets it really snug, then back off completely, then 6 Nm snugs just enough for the 1/4 turn counter clockwise to be perfect. Yup, those two slim wrenches will get me doing some jury rigging, to be sure.

Thanks for your input.

If you check the Top Yoke is bolted rigid to the top of the fork tube. The bottom pulls or slides up to the top.. I didn't see the manual reference it was the 45 years of wrenching that told me something had to move during adjustment..

Good Luck young Sir ;)
 
This topic really helped me a lot, have the same old wobbly issue, and after reading everyone's input through, i will have a look tonight at the bearing torques.
Mine is definitely not the tire as i replaced it 1000km since.
 
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