Gearbox/clutch drama

Thanks @warp9.9 your info is very valuable, looks like you learned it the hard way though!

The electronic version of the manual I have downloaded from here doesn't cover the roadster but it seems close enough for me to follow. I may yet remove the engine then have a mechanic break it open - problem is I have zero faith in either of the dealerships available to me.

mully95 said:

So you've already saved yourself $1500...... that's good!

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At least....my dealer has a habit of estimating rather than quoting...we recently had an issue where a $360 tyre managed to cost $520 by the time it was fitted.

mr hunt said:

Thanks @warp9.9 your info is very valuable, looks like you learned it the hard way though!

The electronic version of the manual I have downloaded from here doesn't cover the roadster but it seems close enough for me to follow. I may yet remove the engine then have a mechanic break it open - problem is I have zero faith in either of the dealerships available to me.

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Ya I bet its pretty close maybe a few more bolts as I do not know if the ABS unit comes off the rear or goes up with the frame. Getting out is the hard part. You can split the engine without loosing cam timing provided your not pulling the crank. The whole transmission can be taken out with cams and crank still timed. And I re-used ever bolt even the staked ones. I think its important to read the steps your performing and if there is something you do not understand ask someone will have done it before. Most likely you will not have to remove the shifting drum and detent/shifting mechanisms just the two shaft clean the insides and do the repairs needed on the two shafts. Gears and what not. Fancy phone are good for I don't remember pictures like shifting for alignment for when you start moving all the fancy components inside to see how it works. Yep I know that one. I did my first one in the basement on a new throw rug so I had a nice clean soft area for my knees. Below is the damaged motor on the crate and the parts motor laying on the rug with no head (previously donated)



when I was done the garbage man was nice enough to haul away the 6 dollar rug for me

Only problem was not telling the wifey I bought the rug for that until I clued into the fact she was under the impression I took one of hers !!!!!

JUST SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT. IF I EVER HAVE THE BOTTOM PAN OFF I AM GOING TO EPOXY A COUPLE OF (SORRY CAPS) magnets to pick up metal like this.

Hey @warp9.9 is there any danger of dropping swarf or other damaged gearbox bits into the engine when you turn it upside down to split the case?

I'm just about ready to drop the engine out of the frame so will make a timber frame similar to yours for the gearbox work.

Attached pic is the drive shaft (final drive end) ... pretty good nick overall. All the drive splines are in as good condition and were covered in plenty of grease showing little degradation. It's only been apart and relubed twice in 45k km

...hopefully a better pic - for those who are interested...

mr hunt said:

Hey @warp9.9 is there any danger of dropping swarf or other damaged gearbox bits into the engine when you turn it upside down to split the case?

I'm just about ready to drop the engine out of the frame so will make a timber frame similar to yours for the gearbox work.

Attached pic is the drive shaft (final drive end) ... pretty good nick overall. All the drive splines are in as good condition and were covered in plenty of grease showing little degradation. It's only been apart and relubed twice in 45k km

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I was lucky ( I guess) as all my destruction was on the input shaft where the clutch basket goes (input shaft was bent) so I did not really have to worry about transmission bits. So I took a look at some of my pictures and since yours looks like it actually has pretty good sized bits in the pan whether gear teeth or not I can not tell but non the less parts of gears or dogs. So picture wise other then the out put helical gear the only way I could see metal bits getting out of the transmission is shown below.
Yellow arrow points to the helical output gear.
red area is the only area I have found the is open between the transmission and the sump pan where fragments might come from. this is in the area of the rear sump where your bits are laying right in front of the screen. It should be noted that the transmission area also houses the oil pressure bypass/control valve any oil pressure above the setting sprays out this valve lubricating the transmission and returning to the sump I suspect a lot via the red circled area. Now whether you already washed out most of the fragments or not is left to be seen as there could still be some laying around inside there that was not in the heavy oil flow area. I can not tell you as I do not know the spray pattern and or how much velocity is behind it.

I also looked at how could it migrate and infect the main and crankshaft area which is circled in green but I believe you would have to roll the bike over pretty darn far to get her up there.




That being said if it were me and I am not expert in fact I would recommend asking someone more skilled then myself in case they know or have seen anything else I have not. Unless you have been in the engine before some of the muck you see in the screens is machining swarf left over from manufacturing. Its really hard to get everything out. So I would clean both before I continue and then put the sump on and set the engine upright on two 4 x 4 dunnage blocks. this will keep it high enough off the ground to clear the splined shifter shaft when you roll the engine
then I would roll her towards the transmission oil tank side keeping the transmission side down to the ground. Direction of roll pictured looking from the front of the engine



I would bet by rolling it slowly in that direction until the cam all the bolts on the case are accessible she would be laying at say about a 46 degree angle. which would keep any bits from rolling all over inside the transmission and still allow you to split the case before she is totally upside down. This way you can view and access whether to finish rolling her totally upside down or do some cleaning first. Make sure you have a couple extra short 4 x 4's are long enough so when you roll her over you can place them under the cam cover. You will be able to lift a little and pull them out if you want to continue rolling her upside down.
Hope this helps its just my thoughts and well I am not as smart as some blokes on this site.

Don't sell yourself short mate..you've been a great help to me! Nothing beats experience in my book.

I get what you mean about the oil journals and such ... most of the metal in the pan looked like machining swarf so hopefully the sump caught it all.

I'll keep y'all posted on what i find

Definately don't sell yourself short @warp9.9
Your advice is constructive and easy to follow . No problems whatsoever (yet ) with my 2010 , but with posts and instructions such as yours , I have no fear of it if it does , whereas before I wasn't too sure !
Knowledge is power .

Oil tank and throttle bodies removed...

This is cyl 2 (cyl 3 looks the same


This is cyl 1. Valves are much cleaner than 2 and 3. I can't rotate the crank so can't get a look at each piston but generally it all looks pretty clean.