Gearbox/clutch drama

[warp9.9]

I believe yours will have the "sealed" bearing at the rear of the torsional damper. That was an upgrade on the later models. That is likely a bit of the grease that has escaped the seal. Probably a normal occurrence due to repetitive hot / cold cycles of the engine.

exactly what my thoughts were.

Also just in case the front bearing with a single seal sbould have to open side facing forward. Its been a while since I have seen one in backwards but it has happened. Should look like below

 

[Paul Bryant]

I'm watching this thread with interest Mike, as I'm sure many others are as well.
And Warp, great reading all your responses, this is great assistance to those whom don't have your knowledge and experience.

 

[Nat67]

+1 keep it up !

 

[cootertwo]

YES! Very good stuff here!

 

[mr hunt]

Thanks @warp9.9 and @Rocket Scientist I'll break her open with as is and post what i find as into.

I do keep reminding myself that the workshop manual I have is NOT for a roadster so the gear position shaft may not be fitted as per my reading

...and thanks for the continued encourage fellas

 

[mr hunt]

Here's a trap for beginners...don't try lever the cases apart BEFORE you've found the bolt cleverly hidden by triumph in a hollow boss level with the back of the input shaft. It was full of oil so looked like a journal to me....

...and then.....I couldn't get a socket over it so wicked out the oil with some paper towel and found this:

 

[warp9.9]

Remember the threaded jack holes on the flange of the input shaft are just about worthless and will break off. I used a brass drift on mine but a good piece of Hard wood will do the same thing.

That bolt was #17 of the crank case bolts. Triumph should have used a larger drawing on that page especially for those of you who do not have Trifocals . Don't forget #13 is hiding out of view until you remove the oil pressure pump.

 

[mr hunt]

ThAnks warp..I got #13 but missed #17 at first..that's where I found what looks like another piece of sprocket.

Had to call it quits until I get the removal tool for the alternator sorted. That's the only part holding the cases together now.

 

[mr hunt]

General question for those you've split cases - did you use the same bolts to reassemble or replace them ALL as per the instructions? I can understand replacing head bolts due to stretching but wouldn't have thought that would be a problem with the cases. Is it more likely they'll shear when torqued down a second time?

 

[warp9.9]

General question for those you've split cases - did you use the same bolts to reassemble or replace them ALL as per the instructions? I can understand replacing head bolts due to stretching but wouldn't have thought that would be a problem with the cases. Is it more likely they'll shear when torqued down a second time?

I did not renew mine and she went together fine. Anything staked and or that has thread locker on I reapplied thread locker to. If it were the head or rod bolts I would renew them as you stated. When it comes to the main ladder bolts I have not found anything in the manual about re-using them or not. So I did not. I imagine if I were to have to split her again I would think about new ones. Of course if any bolt looks suspicious change it anyway, it's better then damaging the threads in the block.