Front Brake Pad Pinch Bolt

Boxed mine up and sent it to an expert.

The tech story is that the brake pad heat comes into the retainer pin makes it seize up. Not buying it. My brakes don't get that hot. People panic with brake fasteners and, in the name of safety, over tighten the bolts. I check my brake bolts with some frequency and have never found a loose one. Only this frozen bastard.

Will replace the retainer bolts with Titanium + no-seize and safety pins. That will make the next pad change ezzy.
 
Pad heat story is, as you surmise, absolutely BS.

It does transfer, and it does make them a little harder to remove but nothing like this.
 
Just a recommendation. Buy the pins from truimph. They come with cotter pins. Smear a small amount of anti seize around threads install to specs and be done with it. Next brake pad change will be easy.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: Five minute job not counting the beer break.
 
Pad heat story is, as you surmise, absolutely BS.

It does transfer, and it does make them a little harder to remove but nothing like this.

That's what I told the service advisor. Extreme heat makes metal change colors. The pad and the disc are designed to dissipate heat. He got upset. Some service advisors can't be questioned. They get defensive fast.

Now what I need is some very small spring type hairpin cotter pins. These things are non-existent. The funky shaped ones that go on the rear caliper retainer pin are impossible to find and ezzy to loose.
 
my manual does not give torque for that screw in pin or the bolts that hold the caliper together.
it gives 40 Nm to bolt the caliper on to the fork.
anybody got torque on similar caliper?
 
18nm isn't even 1 ugaduga of torque, it's barely even 1 "that'll do it" tight, so money on the tech giving it two or even three "that'll do it's" as the cause.

I think that ever 13 pounds is too much if the pin is going to protect the pin from backing out. The key component here is the anti-seize grease. The devil is in the details.
 
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