Front Brake Pad Pinch Bolt

[TURBO200R4]

thats great !
do i need to post another link for 1k9

 

[Tripps]

Used them for years. You really need to be careful with smaller ones, murder to drill out if you break one in a hole. Damhik.

 

[1K9]

this is what u need to take that out.
now it is possible to break these with enough pressure.
if it was mine i would order these and try them if it seems like it won't come out put heat on that bolt.
these easy outs come in handy for me.

ROD*****10 PC EXTRACTOR Set #100,X-10,10 SIZES,1/8'' - 13/32'' | eBay

Tried heat with a small torch... No cigar. Will check chk Northern Tools to see if they have something like that.

 

[warp9.9]

Unsuccessful punch and hammer try. It is there for good. It sucks... has almost new pads and a new seals kit.

Not sure what you were trying to do there but puck it up. Alas your not the first person to ignore a machinist advice. Its ok they make new ones all day long. Next time to help you a lit more if your nit going to lusten just pull your meat out lay it on the bench and see hiw the punch and hammer work in it. No wincing there are two types of mechanics in the world the ones who make the parts and the ones who screw them up.

 

[1K9]

No banging needed if they are just torqued to much. Hopefully you removed the R clip or cotter pin if so just cut the pads off the pin and use a set if vice grips to help you break the bolt torque loose. After that you shouldn't need it unless they are cross threaded. If loose clean any burs off the pin from the vice grip and the spin it out. You would be better off removing the caliper completely and doing it on a bench. Removing any burrs is critical so you do not damage the internal threads.

Scott; how do you propose cutting the pads off the pin? There is no space. What I might try is opening the caliper halves then take the pads out and then try to grab the pin with the vice grips. Wish I had a bench with a vice but I don't. To stabilize the caliper it needs to go on the bike.

 

[Claviger]

Squeeze the pads to the center, then use a Dremel/cutoff wheel to remove the back side of the pad hole.

Honestly I'm shocked a left handed bit didn't do the trick. Even when they don't work, usually the remaining fastener is so thin you can crack it apart with moderate force.

 

[Paul Bryant]

Try getting some of this stuff. [at Amazon in the US: CRC Penetr8 Freeze Off]
On the burnt out Rocket that I have when I went to remove the swing arm the adjuster/location bolt things were rusted and frozen in there, remember the whole bike had been heated then cooled off.
There was no way, even with a 2 foot long power bar would they move.
A squirt of this stuff that freezes and shrinks the bolt, then allows penetrating oil to get in, and it came undone straight away, brilliant stuff.

 

[1K9]

It is going to require destruction. A reverse pulling drill bit. Just tried to heat it up and strip whatever meat was left in the cup. The other side came out easy. These bolts have been there since right before MV, 3 months. There is no rust. I am suspect it was cross threaded by a carless tech. I might take and old dental carbide burr on the high speed Dremel and slice it from the inside. I think I have some left from the dental drilling days.

Pretty sure that grabbing the pin with a vice grip is not going to do it either.

 

[Tal]

I think I have some left from the dental drilling days.

I shuddered when i thought of that!! And, if the bike wont start when you have finished, try this..

 

[Nat67]

Unsuccessful punch and hammer try. It is there for good. It sucks... has almost new pads and a new seals kit.

Good gracious ! I said small punch not a bloody chisel . It usually takes 3 or 4 points around the bolt head , punching away from the casting . I've done hundreds ! send me the caliper. I will have that out in 5mins and send it straight back to you , cleaned up , de burred and like new . If not , I will send you mine !