FINALLY, 6 months later

When I did mine I used the torx bolts on the cam gears. I know triumph changed to allen head but the torx has a larger surface contact in the slotted gears. I normally hate the buggers but felt better about them here. Thats back when we figured out they needed a heavier torque setting.


What torque are you using for the revision, the tech did torque them, but I'm confident it was a FSM spec used.
 
When I did mine I used the torx bolts on the cam gears. I know triumph changed to allen head but the torx has a larger surface contact in the slotted gears. I normally hate the buggers but felt better about them here. Thats back when we figured out they needed a heavier torque setting.

same here on the larger surface area. is that higher torque setting 17nm (150inlbs)?

I used 17nm (up from manual's 15nm) with a generous drop of medium threadloc. oh and positioned the bolt in the back end of the slot so if it did slip, it can't slip too far!
 
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R3R turbo, thanks, I'll print that and bring it in tomorrow.

Thinking about having him slightly advance the exhaust and retard the intake cams. Should provide a little more piston to valve clearance, I have less clearance than normal 265 kits with the stock pistons and a decked head. Has the side effect of dialing out some overlap, as a result it should move the power down the RPM range, something that is good for me since I can only spin my motor to 7K since it's a late Roadster and no 9K tune exists ...yet.
 
Yeah, there are a lot of potential causes. Based on talking with both Bob and my tech, plus my own inspection of the head, I do have a pretty good idea of what caused it. I guess we'll see, if it works this time, I'll be able to confirm it and isolate who's blunder it was.

The tech isn't a typical "hired off the street and sent to school tech". Hes older, the most senior tech in the state, works on all makes, all models, and has many years of building multi cylinder race bikes, at an independent shop before the track closed here in HI.

No animosity towards anyone on my part, **** happens, errors happen etc. If the problem is what I suspect it was, someone will be buying me a new head though...or going to court lol.
same here on the larger surface area. is that higher torque setting 17nm (150inlbs)?

I used 17nm (up from manual's 15nm) with a generous drop of medium threadloc. oh and positioned the bolt in the back end of the slot so if it did slip, it can't slip too far!
Yep looks very familiar. Another thing I am weary about is the manul tensioner verses a modified auto tensioner. I have one each and so far would rather have the modified auto tensioner I have on the Falcons kit. Both work fine only one you have to worry about adjusting right.
 
Just got off the phone with Carp. They too tighten at 17-20 nm, not 15.

I have a feeling that's what went wrong the first time.
 
Just got off the phone with Carp. They too tighten at 17-20 nm, not 15.

I have a feeling that's what went wrong the first time.
Yes 17 is what I used 150 inch lbs. Along with the medium grade thread locker. I used the thread locker on the blower spigot as well (old style spigot) also order the good head bolts instead of the OEM ONES.
 
Bloody hell RIIIR do you think you have the gears slotted enough :). Got about two teeth worth of adjustment there!!!!!!!

that's the way they came, i'm not gona question the engine building gods :)
i just thought it might save the engine to have the bolts at the back of the slots, if the cam gears slip under the head of the bolt for whatever reason, overlap will be lost and valves might close earlier at lower engine speeds but at least they won't be riveted by the pistons.. i think
 
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