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So after reading all the comments I would have to say that no one wants to take a temp reading for you. Nice. I still have stock headers so I can take a temp reading right at the flange under the heat shield if you'd like? That would give you an idea of the stock temperature is anyway.

Well you didn't read them all....as soon as I quaff some more coffee I am going to look for my pyrometer. And with your stock reading and my reading with Jardines...we may have a table of data!
 
WHAT exhaust do you have post pics
off topic a bit, for all you who don't have raditor gaurds, I just put mine on, not a ziptie expensive crappy one, the eBay chinease tough one that connects to the rad support and is very solid, I just hit a flock of little birds some how, swear to god that rad gaurd saved my bike and raditor, I had birds stuck in the fairings and 2 we're caught in the raditor gaurd, any one else ever hit birds? it's a first for me
 
@Super D. I have 2 Rockets...an '09 standard running a Reband system and a '13 Roadster running a CES system. Both bikes have been dyno tuned. Both bikes run hot on the leg. Sitting on my bike lift absolutely cold at ambient temperature then fire up and let it idle for a minute or so and my little laser temp gun puts the header temp right at the block in the 500 F range...not revving...just idling for a minute. So the answer to your question is YES...aftermarket pipes are hot, and YES I will eventually get tired of it and fab a heat shield. Both sets of pipes have been coated by the original manufacturer and two different shops since in an attempt to reduce the heat. My problem is that I like black, and black ceramic coating does very little to reduce heat. If you like the silver look you can have them put a ceramic coating on your headers that contains aluminum oxide which I'm told will provide significant heat reduction. Haven't tried that yet as I'm not a fan of shiny stuff so much. Hope this helps
 
BTW...I would expect that the header temp gets well above 700 degrees when the rpms come up. As a frame of reference the tip of a cigarette burns at about 750 degrees F when not being drawn on. Anybody want to volunteer to get a cigarette put out on your leg every time you go ride?

Thought not...

Edit: Having said all of this I still want one of Paul's systems to replace my Rebands. Them things are moto **** in my opinion. Sexy work there @Paul Bryant
 
So to be clear my pyrometer is laser based and aiming it at chrome gives a false reading. But the Jardines have plain black pipe behind the heat shields and there is enough visible to take a reading if you stand in the right spot.

So to start, bike was cold and shop temperature was 67 degrees. Backed bike out into shady spot of yard, ambient temperature 73. After running bike 5 minutes I got a pipe temperature near 400 degrees.
I will say, that running with engine under load say doing 70 up a six percent grade, the pipes will get MUCH hotter. But as soon as the load reduces they simmer down. To my understanding of how these things should work...this is normal behavior. My tune is modified by me, still a little lean, but no popping, which was my aim. Otherwise it is a generic tune for my setup. Jardines, and Ramair.
 
My original exhaust in stock 100% stock form when the bike was new used to glow red on the highway around 2500 rpm. This was where the three head pipes joined. really noticeable at night. With a TuneBoy tune in it and TOR's etc it no longer glows.

Because it is no longer lean:D how was your fishing trip with the Fifers?
 
So I measured my exhaust about 1" away from the block on the pipe itself and I got 458f. That was after a 10 minute ride and the bike at idle, the cooling fan was on so the engine was hot. I shot my KLR650 as well and after a 36 mile ride the temp 1" from the block was almost exactly 500f. Both bikes are fueled correctly.
 
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