Erratic Idle problem

[barbagris]

First thing to check is the throttle bodies' connection to the boots on the head. If a TB is loose in its boot and leaks air, nothing else you do will matter. Ask Boog. If the RAM air has been on and off more than a whore's panties, you may have dislodged the TB in their boots in the process.

Next would be all port caps and vacuum lines. A cracked line can open and close with changing vacuum and will drive you nuts. Loose caps on the unused ports on the TB can also be a problem. If there is a leak, the sync could be off too but only at times so find the air leak and then re-sync..

Oddly the first thing I went to look at on GOC's screen shots was the vacuum values. They are all even - but (and this may or may not matter) all seem a bit low compared to mine. Last time I looked - mine were in the 670's

@Grumpy Ole Codger - a good source of vacuum tubes is Morgan Carbtune - carburetor synchronizer for balancing motorcycle carbs - one of these days I must try the @Speedy inspired vacuum plenum. I'm lazy, OK!.

Also imo - makes NO SENSE going to a Dyno man if there are any issues. It's maybe a BIT extreme - but given your admissions of diminished capability - replace all the **** vacuum tubes. I would pressure and vacuum test them but because I have access to the gear.

 

[warp9.9]

I'm with Blaine air leak first then map adjustment . But first to clear things up you said yoi had the O2 bung plugged. Do you have s O2 bypass installed or is the sensor unplugged (physically )?

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Gentleman, the Long haired General has put her foot down and I've been banned from playing with my toys today. Tomorrow is also forbidden so I will take multiple photos of all items/points raised and post on Tuesday. @warp9.9 -the O2 sensor in the exhaust has been removed completely. A blanking plug inserted in exhaust and a connector that came as a kit put in to electrical connection. Without electrical olug I had a fault code.

 

[joesoap]

I cant offer any advice which has,nt been discussed and its always the hardest proplem to cure when so many settings have been changed at roughly the same time..Ive always returned to base set up and found one change at a time then a ride out to see if it cures, if not return to base and try another change and try that ect ect..Dont always trust a trusted tune either as anything PC related can be corrupted,not like the old days of mechanical changes with something to see and hear along the way in fault finding Start again from the begining and you will frind the bugger thats giving so much grief believe me....as for the missus stamping on the back of your neck like an SS officer,buy her a bottle of wine,some nice xmas cake and tell her you,l see her in 2 days as you have a job to do...Happy new years..

 

[TriumPhil]

My money is on a dirty or clogged stepper motor spring or the tip of your IAT sensor being damaged, but hey Codger, we're all spitballin' here - trying to think of all options that can mess with both your idle and mental health.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Oddly the first thing I went to look at on GOC's screen shots was the vacuum values. They are all even - but (and this may or may not matter) all seem a bit low compared to mine. Last time I looked - mine were in the 670's

@Grumpy Ole Codger - a good source of vacuum tubes is Morgan Carbtune - carburetor synchronizer for balancing motorcycle carbs - one of these days I must try the @Speedy inspired vacuum plenum. I'm lazy, OK!.

Also imo - makes NO SENSE going to a Dyno man if there are any issues. It's maybe a BIT extreme - but given your admissions of diminished capability - replace all the **** vacuum tubes. I would pressure and vacuum test them but because I have access to the gear.

Hi Chris - Happy New Year.
The vacuum values on the bike always read at about 660 when cold but drop to the 570/580 value when hot and this is across the board. When the revs drop to the 740 mark and it splutters the vacuum readings drop to about 540, again evenly.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

My money is on a dirty or clogged stepper motor spring or the tip of your IAT sensor being damaged, but hey Codger, we're all spitballin' here - trying to think of all options that can mess with both your idle and mental health.

Hi Phil - Happy New Year!
I am able to watch the stepper motor moving in and out as the revs rise and fall. Admittedly, there is a bit of dirt on the outside of the rubber boot, mostly sticking to previously applied lubricant. Again, this will be cleaned and greased tomorrow morning.

 

[TriumPhil]

Happy 2018 back onya', kind Sir!

 

[barbagris]

Hi Chris - Happy New Year.
The vacuum values on the bike always read at about 660 when cold but drop to the 570/580 value when hot and this is across the board. When the revs drop to the 740 mark and it splutters the vacuum readings drop to about 540, again evenly.

Aha - I see. Wishing you a Happy New Year.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone on this forum for their help and advice - it's like having an extra pair of eyes and ears watching over you as you try to learn and gain the experience to sort out any problems with this bike.
An update after the whole day spent in a freezing cold garage. Well, it was cold until I nicked the heater from the house! I started by removing the RamAir filter, and checking once again via TuneEcu all settings for TPS and Stepper motor, fan, idle, etc. All came back as good to go. Started the bike and the tick over was still dropping to 720 and then surging to 1060. Next step was to remove AiT sensor, all okay. Maf sensor all good. Barometric sensor at back of engine - cable bent and appeared loose. Checked and realigned cable route - okay. Restarted and same issue! In some ways it pays to have a short hair cut..
Next was the throttle bodies. Now this is starting to stretch the limits of my abilities some what but it all came off bit by bit and carefully laid out. TPC was the Blue one - spotless. Stepper motor - a smattering of gunge on the outside - cleaned with WD40 and re oiled. All return springs on throttle bodies were cleaned in a similar fashion and re oiled. Now the tricky bit of re-assembly. Went back together without a hitch (I lied - loads of swearing) and switched back on. Hooked up to TuneEcu and fault codes for air temp sensor, Maf sensor, idle speed control. Tested all on laptop - no faults detected so cleared errors. Checked map again and re-loaded map from Hans0. ISCV adjust - TPS at 0.61v and 0.73v respectively. Started up and let warm up until fan kicked in and left for 15 mins until nosey neighbour came to see what all the noise was about. Switched off and left for 30 mins. Started again and tick over was running at 910-950rpm....and after 3/4 mins dropped to 820rpm and back to 1010rpm. Continued running for a further 20 mins without any further drastic drop in rpm. Tried start/stop every 5 mins and run for 5 mins - just an occasional dip to about 830 but back almost immediately to 940rpm. Sooo much better than it was. I will be trying again tomorrow morning and taking bike for a 50 mile run - weather here is rather inclement at the moment. Methinks it might be fixed but the cause??? I'm thinking it might have been an accumulation of dodgy connectors and dirty return springs....more to follow tomorrow!
First edit of this monstrous load of waffle: - Renewed all the vacuum hoses and the 4 way connector.