Erratic Idle problem

[Tal]

Yep...find a GOOD dyno man and travel...dosnt matter if its a long ride cos comin back will be awesome...my motor runs like hot chocolate and i just love ridin her!

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

This is my new mission! There are several guys here on the forum from around abouts here so hopefully someone can provide a name/number of a reputable establishment.

 

[Tal]

This is my new mission! There are several guys here on the forum from around abouts here so hopefully someone can provide a name/number of a reputable establishment. [/QUOTE)

I'm sure someone will help you out ...just do it!..its money well spent!..AND you get to watch the beast emerge from within!..quality time!

 

[cootertwo]

Just in case, check the spade terminals on the coils, one or more being loose can cause backfiring, same as turning the ignition on and off while driving.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Thanks Cooter. There is a thread on here from @warp9.9 regarding the HT leads and also the low tension terminals - been out there with my terminal crimper - what a pain in the back side to access them - but the back fire is a tremendous amount of noise, scared people ****le$$, me included!!

 

[1K9]

Cheers to you my fellow Ole Codger. My 07 Classic went through the same pains. I must have also injured something while pulling the plenum and air ducts on mine too. Can you imagine, I had to run the back of the dragon with an unpredictable throttle during RAA 2017.

Under the gas tank, there is a black plastic unit/sensor which has a tube connected to it on the bottom. This sensor (the MAP sensor) was attached to the plenum. The RamAir kit has a clamp to attach it to the fuel rail. There are vacuum tubes that come from the throttle bodies. Make sure that they are all well set. Also disconnect the electrical connection to the MAP sensor, add a little dielectric grease to it and reconnect it. I lubed all the connectors that I could get my hands on. Eventually, I replaced the TPS and MAP sensors.

Also; on the front of the throttle bodies there is a little "stepper motor" It has a rubber cover on it's bottom. Lift the rubber edge and squirt some lubricant in there. WD40 works for me. Also lube all the moving linkages on the throttle body mechanisms. Make sure that all these parts and cables are moving freely. Don't touch the factory set TPS on the front of the throttle bodies. Do all this with the tank propped up. Also, lube the connector of the Barometric Pressure sensor which is hidden on the back/right of the air box. Also lube the crank position sensor connector in the upper/back of the motor. Check your TPS and ISCV values with the motor off, as probably you have done. Run "reset the adaptations", say a prayer to the motorcycle Gods and start her up. The best pictures of all these procedures are courtesy of Warp. I think they are in the thread Connection Problem.

Steve "OlBull" is witness that these electric gremlins can be scared away by wiggling cables under the tank while the bike is running. I now carry an old Android phone, tools and cables to revive the bike if it were to fail while traveling. Like you, my opinion is that we, gremies in the art of motorcycle maintenance, injure the Rocket while removing the plenum and air ducts. I don't think it is a TUNE software problem but a poor or loose electrical connection, a bad sensor or a leaky vacuum tube somewhere. The reward of being able to fix this problem by yourself is worth it. Sort of like when Tom Hanks in the movie Castaway gets a fire going.

Good luck and have fun. The Rocket can be temperamental. If you want a zero maintenance bike go buy a new Valkyrie. It's half as kool as a Rocket but usually have less problems.

 

[Speedy]

First thing to check is the throttle bodies' connection to the boots on the head. If a TB is loose in its boot and leaks air, nothing else you do will matter. Ask Boog. If the RAM air has been on and off more than a whore's panties, you may have dislodged the TB in their boots in the process.

Next would be all port caps and vacuum lines. A cracked line can open and close with changing vacuum and will drive you nuts. Loose caps on the unused ports on the TB can also be a problem. If there is a leak, the sync could be off too but only at times so find the air leak and then re-sync.

Then look at the TBS. I you adjust it and reset the ISCV and then double check in 10 minutes and the voltage is different, the sensor will force the ECU to chase a figurative ghost.

A corrupted ECU tune is possible. And just reloading the tune may not get rid of the problem. Force a re-write by changing every single cell in the tables. First save your tune. Then add 10% for example to the entire table in that copy, save it and load it into the ECU. Then, reload a clean tune from another source. You do not need to start the engine between reloading tunes.

Back fires are generally caused by a very lean condition or an ignition miss. Eliminate those a possibility.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Thank you @1K9 , just few more missions for tomorrow morning I shall be going back to square one and start again. It has to be something I have knocked/done...

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

First thing to check is the throttle bodies' connection to the boots on the head. If a TB is loose in its boot and leaks air, nothing else you do will matter. Ask Boog. If the RAM air has been on and off more than a whore's panties, you may have dislodged the TB in their boots in the process.

Next would be all port caps and vacuum lines. A cracked line can open and close with changing vacuum and will drive you nuts. Loose caps on the unused ports on the TB can also be a problem. If there is a leak, the sync could be off too but only at times so find the air leak and then re-sync.

Then look at the TBS. I you adjust it and reset the ISCV and then double check in 10 minutes and the voltage is different, the sensor will force the ECU to chase a figurative ghost.

A corrupted ECU tune is possible. And just reloading the tune may not get rid of the problem. Force a re-write by changing every single cell in the tables. First save your tune. Then add 10% for example to the entire table in that copy, save it and load it into the ECU. Then, reload a clean tune from another source. You do not need to start the engine between reloading tunes.

Back fires are generally caused by a very lean condition or an ignition miss. Eliminate those a possibility.

Hi Speedy, I can manage some of your suggestions but the mapping thingy is a little bit over my head and way beyond my comprehension so I may have to draw a line under that option! I will have to check all the throttle bodies top and bottom fixings and then reload map and check as you say. Looks like it could be more than just a 'morning mission'..

 

[Rocket Scientist]

A corrupted ECU tune is possible. And just reloading the tune may not get rid of the problem. Force a re-write by changing every single cell in the tables. First save your tune. Then add 10% for example to the entire table in that copy, save it and load it into the ECU. Then, reload a clean tune from another source. You do not need to start the engine between reloading tunes.

Hi Blaine ! That is interesting. Add 10% to any table, or does it have to be a particular one ?