Engine sputtering and backfiring

Three weeks ago I bought a 2013 Roadster that I'm having an issue with. The bike has ram air, and TORS exhaust with a crossover pipe (the one from Australia). The bike also has been professionally dyno tuned. Shortly after buying the bike I noticed it was doing two things. Originally I thought they were separate issues, but now I believe they may be related. When accelerating slowly, the engine sputters and misses (and sometimes even backfires) with the throttle position just above idle. It's most noticeable when shifting, but yesterday I was able to hold the throttle position right at the spot it occurs for a good 2-3 seconds and the engine was missing like crazy, and it backfired. The other thing it's doing is sputtering, pretty much in any gear from 2nd on up, when holding the throttle in a steady position with the RPMs between about 2500 and 3000. The engine seems to run fine at idle, and at any other throttle position other than just above idle. WOT it runs fine. The person that tuned it made a new map as he saw an area of the old one that was a little lean, but the new map didn't fix the problem. Any idea what could be causing this? Thanks.

Just saw your post. You didn't state mileage, but my issue on my 06 Classic sounds very close to what I had. Dealer fought for weeks and could not find an issue. Contacted Triumph in England and had real time computer diagnostics running and they couldn't see anything. After weeks of messing around, I suggested (told) them to put new plug wires on and check connections on the coils. Problem solved. I had about 35K on the wires. Good luck.
 
Just saw your post. You didn't state mileage, but my issue on my 06 Classic sounds very close to what I had. Dealer fought for weeks and could not find an issue. Contacted Triumph in England and had real time computer diagnostics running and they couldn't see anything. After weeks of messing around, I suggested (told) them to put new plug wires on and check connections on the coils. Problem solved. I had about 35K on the wires. Good luck.

Mine has around 8500 miles. I know my problem is in the tune as it was drastically reduced (but not completely eliminated) after installing a different tune. Problem is, I don't know enough about tuning/mapping to know what to do to completely get rid of it...
 
Just saw your post. You didn't state mileage, but my issue on my 06 Classic sounds very close to what I had. Dealer fought for weeks and could not find an issue. Contacted Triumph in England and had real time computer diagnostics running and they couldn't see anything. After weeks of messing around, I suggested (told) them to put new plug wires on and check connections on the coils. Problem solved. I had about 35K on the wires. Good luck.
I had a loose connection on a coil on my '06 as well. Between that and a bad plug, it was driving me up a wall.
 
Hi guys, been doing a lot of reading of the forums as my bike still has this problem. Just made a MuffoMeter today, manometer, now the question is; do you guys tune your throttle bodies at idle or do as we use to when we raced short circuit at 4500rpm???
second question is, does the tps button on the Tune ECU program work and if so how as mine doesn't????!
And finally, your tps voltage should be 0.6v???? Mine is 0.64v and three triumph dealerships have told me it's high and they can't adjust it. I have a new one on order!
This old beast of mine will not get the better of me, we have been through 109k of bliss!!!!!
TIA
MUFF
 

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TPS voltage should be set at .60 +/- .02 volts so your is a tad high but not anything big that can't be adjusted during a full ISCV RESET. If needed. Not sure about your question about TPS button. TB balance at idle via Tune ECU. My blower bike I use vacuum balancing but that is a different animal.

Of course check the low tension leads to the coils and crimp the so they go on good and right. Most high tension leads to the plugs are ok.
 
TPS voltage should be set at .60 +/- .02 volts so your is a tad high but not anything big that can be adjusted during a full ISCV RESET. If needed. Not sure about your question about tps button. TB balance at idle via tune ecu. My blower bike I use vacuum balncing but that a different animal.

Of course check the low tension leads to the coils and crimp the so they go on good and right. Most high tension leads to the plugs are ok.
Thank you, you must be an aviation tech? I was airframe/engines/sheet metal. Can you explain ICSV reset and what it does? What does it do and what does it affect?
In the manual for the Tourer it states that vacuum gauges are required to set the throttle bodies, but not for the other models??? Now that I've made it, I will use it (make me feel like I still have carbies :)).
Muff
 
Thank you, you must be an aviation tech? I was airframe/engines/sheet metal. Can you explain ICSV reset and what it does? What does it do and what does it affect?
In the manual for the Tourer it states that vacuum gauges are required to set the throttle bodies, but not for the other models??? Now that I've made it, I will use it (make me feel like I still have carbies :)).
Muff
An ISCV reset synchronizes the throttle opening with the ECU map, TPS sensor and the idle stepper motor. During this test is where you will set the TPS to 0.6 volts, and then the stepper motor movement or home position. As for your statement about the manual saying you have to use vacuum on the Tourer I believe you're reading it wrong as a Tourer is nothing but a Standard with all the classic bells and whistles on it. Here is a page from the manual if it copied right:

4. Remove the intake plenum chamber (see page 11-
188) and make adjustments until the word
'BALANCED' appears in the top right hand corner of
the screen. Adjusters are located on each throttle as
shown in the diagram below.
row
1. Adjuster 1
2. Adjuster 2
5. When balanced, stop the engine, disconnect the
diagnostic tool and refit the intake plenum chamber
(see page 11-191l.
6. Refit the intake cover (see page 11-149 for Rocket III
and Classic, see page 11-152 for Rocket III Touring).
Fuel System/Engine Management
Throttle Body Balancing - Rocket '"
Touring
Note:
• The Rocket III Touring throttles cannot be
balanced using the Triumph diagnostic tool.
Instead, Triumph recommend the use of the
Souriau Indiana digital inlet vacuum analyser or
similar device.

1. Raise and support the fuel tank (see page 11-151l.
2. Reconnect the electrical connector to the instrument
assembly and secure the instrument assembly to the
fuel tank.
1. Protective cover
2. Electrical connector
3. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor electrical connector.
1. MAP sensor
2. Electrical connector
Service Manual - Rocket 1111 Classic 1 Touring 11.185

I highlighted the particular area and can not explain why it is but also should note that Tune ECU was not available in the early years: first Tune Boy then Tune ECU. It is probably not as easy on a Touring R3T because of accessing the area under the tank but I have never worked on one.

Below is a link to Tune ECU how to on the ISCV reset (it's for the 1050 but the only real difference is the 1050 has two bolts on the TPS where we just have one). After you digest it feel free to ask questions.
Oh and there is probably nothing wrong with using your gauges I did on my blower bike because of bypassing the 1 bar Map sensor which is what Tune ECU uses along with the crank sensor to monitor each cylinder.
 
A ISCV reset synchronizes the throttle opening with the ecu map, TPS sensor and the idle stepper motor. during this test is where you will set the tps to .6 volts. and then the the stepper motor movement or home position. As for your statement about the manual saying you have to use vacuum on the tourer I believe your reading it wrong as a tourer is nothing but a standard with all the classic bells a whistles on it. Here is a page from the manual if it copied right

4. Remove the intake plenum chamber (see page 11-
188) and make adjustments until the word
'BALANCED' appears in the top right hand corner of
the screen. Adjusters are located on each throttle as
shown in the diagram below.
row
1. Adjuster 1
2. Adjuster 2
5. When balanced, stop the engine, disconnect the
diagnostic tool and refit the intake plenum chamber
(see page 11-191l.
6. Refit the intake cover (see page 11-149 for Rocket III
and Classic, see page 11-152 for Rocket III Touring).
Fuel System/Engine Management
Throttle Body Balancing - Rocket '"
Touring
Note:
• The Rocket III Touring throttles cannot be
balanced using the Triumph diagnostic tool.
Instead, Triumph recommend the use of the
Souriau Indiana digital inlet vacuum analyser or
similar device.

1. Raise and support the fuel tank (see page 11-151l.
2. Reconnect the electrical connector to the instrument
assembly and secure the instrument assembly to the
fuel tank.
1. Protective cover
2. Electrical connector
3. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor electrical connector.
1. MAP sensor
2. Electrical connector
Service Manual - Rocket 1111 Classic 1 Touring 11.185

I highlighted the particular area and can not explain why it is but also should note that tune ecu was not available in the early years first tune boy them tune ecu. It is probably not as easy on a Touring R3T do to accessing the area under the tank but I have never worked on one.

below is a link to tune ecu how to on the ISCV reset its for the 1050 but the only real difference is the 1050 has two bolts on the TPS where we just have one. after you digest it feel free to ask questions.
Oh and there is probably noting wrong with using your gauges I did on my blower bike because of bypassing the 1 bar Map sensor which is what tune ecu uses along with the crank sensor to monitor each cylinder.
That's what thru me so hence making the manometer. I will give the manometer a try as it individually shows each cylinder whilst the TuneEcu has all vacuum hoses connected to one point, the map sensor.
So it looks like another day in the shed;what a shame :laugh:
Thanks for this Warp9.9

Muff
 
That's what thru me so hence making the manometer. I will give the manometer a try as it individually shows each cylinder whilst the TuneEcu has all vacuum hoses connected to one point, the map sensor.
So it looks like another day in the shed;what a shame :laugh:
Thanks for this Warp9.9

Muff
No problem bud in my opinion the better reason for Tune ECU is the voltage signals are more finite than the vac gauges. As for the map sensor and all three hoses hooked to it make no difference because the system uses a crank trigger to know which cylinder is huffing.
 
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