Decosse's keyless ignition

Already answered here:
Poll: How do you shut down your Rocket? | Page 7 | R3Owners

Here's the Roadster schematic - I've drawn arrows on the current flow (conventional) from battery through the Fuse Panel, through Key-Switch and through Kill/Run Switch
As described in my linked post above, it makes absolutely zero difference which of those two switches is used to shut down as they are directly in series with each other;
Again, regardless of which switch is opened, there is no power at the output of the Kill Switch node/ input to the ECU

(The latest Roadster is essentially the same - however on that model it is even more cut n dried where the Green wire from the Key-Switch goes DIRECTLY to the Kill/Run switch!) :p


Ign_cct.jpg
hey!! here is a labyrinth I will never try to navigate too difficult to find the way out
 
One answer for a weak ignition switch . . .

The DeCosse Keyless (PKE) ignition.

I installed it last night -- would have been a chop, chop, and done had I not mis-identified a connection coming out of the ECU. When the bike wouldn't come alive first try, Ken instantly identified the problem. The correction took about five minutes, and PRESTO, We have engine start !

Thank you Ken !

SWEET

Approach the bike with the token in pocket, and the position lights flash twice to welcome you.

Turn on the kill switch (one MUST use the kill switch with this setup), then squeeze the clutch lever, and you have ignition on. Start as normal, with the start button.

Turn off the kill switch to stop.

Park, and as you walk away, the position lights flash once to say "See ya".

The ignition switch is disconnected electrically, so no lock parking lights. Can still carry the key to lock the steering head.
and the seat
 
I've had a few inquiries over the last week and would like to make some observations from those dialogues available for general info:

Several have asked about my Headlight Relay Kit - or are adding the EB headlight Relay Kit - and how that relates to the KeyLess system:
When you add my KeyLess system, regardless of the model, the headlight current is no longer flowing through the key-switch, therefor the reliability component of the headlight relay kit is moot.
There is a secondary benefit of the headlight relay kit, which improves the voltage to the lamps, which increases their light output - this is ONLY of benefit with incandescent lamps - if fitting LEDs, then once again this becomes moot.

On late-model Roadsters, there is already no headlight current through the key-switch, as it has an OEM headlight Relay. This is not quite so efficient as the after-market relay kit (whether that be mine or EB) however the noticeable gain in intensity would be less than there would on a std or classic.

My general advice is - if you have a Roadster, don't bother with the headlight relay kit, the benefit is negligible - this whether going KeyLess or sticking with the key.

If converting to LEDs (Daymakers or equivalent) then certainly there will be zero benefit.
With a std or classic, the KeyLess system will definitely address the reliability issue; if installing LEDs, then again, there is zero benefit to having it.

If installing KeyLess, even with a std/classic, then the only reason to add headlight relays would be with incandescents where you would see an improvement in the light output.
If you don't do much night riding, then the reliability aspect is already addressed by the KeyLess Kit and the light output may be of lesser concern.

For a Touring, even though the headlight current still goes through switch, it really does not need a Headlight Relay kit for the single lamp - and if installing KeyLess, then again it is moot regardless.
Even with stock incandescent lamp, because there is only current for one, the voltage drop is not that great so you will not really see much noticeable light improvement
So I would say don't bother with headlight relay kit on a Touring regardless of KeyLess or incandescent or LED.

Here are the variants of the KeyLess kit, in the relay version and the PDM60 version:

The PDM60 is a solid state Power Distribution Module and makes for a very neat install and has provision for 3 additional Accessory Circuits (using three of them for the KeyLess system). The benefit is fuseless circuits available for your accessories without having to connect to your battery; it has provision for independent control of one of these channels, so something like an airhorn addition is very simple using the OEM switch and direct output wiring.
If you buy a PDM60 version, then I will pre-configure it as shown in the picture with the harnesses dressed and connectors installed and pre-program it to match your personal configuration.
Even if no immediate plans for those three extra channels, if your budget will stretch it is nice to have that reserve for future and again, makes for a very neat physical installation. But the Relay Version is also very practical and less outlay of course!


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The Immobilizer relay is an option I only recommend if retaining the original key-switch connected in circuit (requires an additional 2:1 key-switch adapter also)
(most installs the key-switch is disconnected, whether left physically in place or removed - so there is no opportunity to 'jack' the bike at the key-switch with a screwdriver or by bridging across its harness)
Immobilizer relay is available for either Relay or PDM60 versions (with the relay version it is ganged physically to the other 3 which now becomes a block of 4)
Leaving the switch in place (but not connected) retains the ability to lock the steering for overnight parking (although I generally recommend a Xena disk-lock)
 
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Very unlikely 'Bull - the rfid codes are all pretty unique and even each of your own two remotes are different and only valid for your own controller because it has been specifically programmed to match them
So unless you can access his controller and program it to accept your own keys then it's a no-go
 
I had a very noticeable difference when I did the EB conversion on my Roadster and it had the relay recall.
These images were taken during the day and were standard headlights

Low Beam Prior to Rewire EB
Low Beam Standard.JPG


Low Beam AFTER rewire EB
Low Beam After Rewire.JPG


High Beam Before Rewire EB

High Beam Standard.JPG


High Beam AFTER Rewire EB

High Beam After Rewire.JPG
 
I'm not saying there is no difference Tony, primarily that there is no reliability issue as no longer through the KeySwitch and secondly no performance gain for LEDS
I did acknowledge that with incandescents the OEM scheme is not as efficient
 
Very unlikely 'Bull - the rfid codes are all pretty unique and even each of your own two remotes are different and only valid for your own controller because it has been specifically programmed to match them
So unless you can access his controller and program it to accept your own keys then it's a no-go

Heh heh heh, just jerking yer chain, Amigo!!!
Always enjoy reading your posts.
Man, am I stuffed! :eek: :sleep: :inlove
 
It's a good question though Bull - I've actually had a few ask me that before.
 
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