Couple of possible issues

[DAN682]

Make it easy on yourself. When you get the front wheel in the air use a flat blade screwdiver to push the brake pads (both sides on both sides) away from the disk. Then spin the wheel. You can then set a fixed point (like a WD-40 spray nozzle hose) near the brake rotor and watch the disk in relation to the hose tip to see if there is any "in and out" in relation to the fixed point (same concept as wheel truing). If the amount of "play" is very small (or none) then I suspect your brake fluid needs changed. If the scrubbing noise is heard without brake pads near the rotors its your bearings.

Great Advice! Thanks

G'day and welcome.

Does it jump out of 2nd gear when accelerating or just feel clunky?

It hasn't jumped out of 2nd gear, but I find it hard to engage first and sometimes it jumps out of first.

Was the R3 sat for a while without being used? - sometimes the pads bind slightly onto the disc if left sat idle for a goodly while. This can take a while to rub off

I would imagine it has sat for quite sometime. With such little K's on an 06, Riding would have been very scarce on it.

I have done a few really hard front brake only stops trying to see if that will resolve it but so far, nothing.

On Another note, before I do some damage, where is the best point to jack the bike up? Under the Engine with a trolley jack with a rag over the jack or something?

Cheers

 

[budman]

Great Advice! Thanks



On Another note, before I do some damage, where is the best point to jack the bike up? Under the Engine with a trolley jack with a rag over the jack or something?

Cheers

..argghh..another pita design..if ya just wanna raise the front wheel, yes, you can put jack under engine without due cause for concern....but..if ya wanna raise the whole bike, that's whole other ballgame...do a search on here..lots of info..

 

[DAN682]

Thanks for the info rkt88

 

[atomsplitter]

I use a scrap 1 X 4 pine board between jack and engine. The wood gives enough the you won't break any fins or ribbing on the lower cases. Make sure you stabilize the bike with either wheel in the air, bad things can (and will) happen if you let it flop around in the breeze.

 

[DAN682]

I use a scrap 1 X 4 pine board between jack and engine. The wood gives enough the you won't break any fins or ribbing on the lower cases. Make sure you stabilize the bike with either wheel in the air, bad things can (and will) happen if you let it flop around in the breeze.

Thanks for the info and point taken. I am actually thinking of buying a proper jack. I need to jack my yamaha up also as it looks like it shat the rear diff or shaft a few weeks back.

Anyone in aus know where to get them at a reasonable price?

 

[Fred F.]

Thanks for the info and point taken. I am actually thinking of buying a proper jack. I need to jack my yamaha up also as it looks like it shat the rear diff or shaft a few weeks back.

Anyone in aus know where to get them at a reasonable price?

I think these kind are available world wide. They come from a place called Harbor Freight here. This is what I use. The trouble with the rocket is if you left just under the engine it will only lift the front wheel. If you make an adaptor like I've drawn below (I don't have the measurements here at work but can provide them). The adaptor sits on one pad of the jack and goes up under the swing arm pivot tube. The other goes under the engine and picks the bike straight up. It's very stable. They are less than a hundred dollars here. You have to right click the drawing and then select view image.

 

[DAN682]

Thanks Fred, I will start looking for one.

 

[ruzzle]

www.ibbikelifts.com

 

[lonerider]

www.ibbikelifts.com

zero out of 1000 members find ruzzle helpful

 

[Fred F.]

With a 450kg capacity it would be right at the limit if you have bags and screens and a full tank of petrol.

That's a different model, as mine is rated for 1500 lbs. or 680kg.