1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
I just finished putting Classic bars on my 2012 Roadster. It is a pretty easy job to be sure.
I offer this FYI in case some interested in doing this may find it helpful.
This very simple technique utilized the OEM cables and brake lines, requiring NO cables or brake line replacement. Nothing was done to the clutch cable. The throttle cables required re-routing under the top triple clamp. The front brake line was too short and I preferred NOT to go under the triple clamp for fear of crimping the hydraulic line when bar locking to the right.
I discovered that the ABS brake line system is a bowl of spaghetti and a compilation of over a half dozen lines that connect in various fashions and traverse all over the darn bike. From the master cylinder on the bar, two connected lines run rearward back to the ABS Modulator. Two other connected hydraulic lines then run from the Modulator forward to a "T" over the front wheel where it bifurcates to each of the front wheel calipers. Both the brake lines to the rear and the one back to the front connect at a metal block under the right side of the fuel tank. This block is a permanent part of each line and cannot be disconnected.
What I found was the block can be unbolted from the frame and then separated by removing a screw. Once that is done the top line (to the master cylinder) can then be moved forward. This gains about two inches and allows the master cylinder/throttle assembly to be mounted in proper fashion at the right side bar end and provides enough clearance for the bars to be turned to lock in both directions without binding.
For me, these bars are a definite improvement and bring my hands an inch or two to the rear and inward one inch each side. My bar width went from 35 inches (OEM) to 33 inches (Classic). In a world perfect for my ergonomics, I would prefer another couple inches rearward and one inch upward. That project (new bars, cables & brake lines) and shall wait until after RAA X.
I offer this FYI in case some interested in doing this may find it helpful.
This very simple technique utilized the OEM cables and brake lines, requiring NO cables or brake line replacement. Nothing was done to the clutch cable. The throttle cables required re-routing under the top triple clamp. The front brake line was too short and I preferred NOT to go under the triple clamp for fear of crimping the hydraulic line when bar locking to the right.
I discovered that the ABS brake line system is a bowl of spaghetti and a compilation of over a half dozen lines that connect in various fashions and traverse all over the darn bike. From the master cylinder on the bar, two connected lines run rearward back to the ABS Modulator. Two other connected hydraulic lines then run from the Modulator forward to a "T" over the front wheel where it bifurcates to each of the front wheel calipers. Both the brake lines to the rear and the one back to the front connect at a metal block under the right side of the fuel tank. This block is a permanent part of each line and cannot be disconnected.
What I found was the block can be unbolted from the frame and then separated by removing a screw. Once that is done the top line (to the master cylinder) can then be moved forward. This gains about two inches and allows the master cylinder/throttle assembly to be mounted in proper fashion at the right side bar end and provides enough clearance for the bars to be turned to lock in both directions without binding.
For me, these bars are a definite improvement and bring my hands an inch or two to the rear and inward one inch each side. My bar width went from 35 inches (OEM) to 33 inches (Classic). In a world perfect for my ergonomics, I would prefer another couple inches rearward and one inch upward. That project (new bars, cables & brake lines) and shall wait until after RAA X.