I do understand and accept that the Carp pipe produces more HP.
I mostly travel long distances on my R3R and right leg clearance for britches is important to me.
The Carp looks to me to have the least leg clearance of all and Paul's (@Paul Bryant ) Viking system the most. The CES is in between.
I would go with a Carp IF necessary to cross the 200 RWHP line, but I do not care for its crude yet effective design (springs???).
As stated before, I would contact Trevor at CES about increase of diameter and/or what could be done to improve his numbers.
Now I am pondering, as a first step, sending in my ecu for Carpenter to flash and buying their headers since this will need to be done if I get the 240 package anyway. The guy at Carpenter says I can expect about 150hp out of my touring with this setup. Is this a legit number do you think?
IMHO - an actual dyno be WAY better than a flash. I'd suggest you do your intake (Ramair) & exhaust first, get a sufficient tune to download & then make the reasonable ride to WA and see Nels at Two Wheel Dyno Works.
Now I am pondering, as a first step, sending in my ecu for Carpenter to flash and buying their headers since this will need to be done if I get the 240 package anyway. The guy at Carpenter says I can expect about 150hp out of my touring with this setup. Is this a legit number do you think?
Correct sir about "a real tuner". The tuners I've talked to around my neck of the woods only adjust fuel and only through Power Commander. Most won't even touch timing. I think the real tuners (NEV, Carpenter for example) make multiple runs and adjust all parameters to get the best possible outcome. I'll bet you if you ask your favorite tuner if he also does timing (through our ECU), he will say no as he will have no idea how to access it. So a generic tune through a real tuner might give you a better outcome than a individual tune adjusting only fuel.