I'm going to reverse bleeding with the expectation of wonderment!
Someone here suggested reverse bleed requires NO Dealer Tool to bleed the ECU.
Anyone know if that is a fact?
Do you have 2 individual lines going from the master cylinder directly to the calipers?
Or did you buy the kit that has the same number of lines running the same route?.
We are discussing the former instance
I have the kit, still unopened, but I'd rather just extend/replace the two front lines and call it good.
The OEM joiner under the triple clamp is a POS & not workable.
'Spose I could replace that joiner and carry one line to the master cylinder . . .
After my first frustrating attempt to bleed the brakes on my old Suzuki Intruder 800 years ago, a friend introduced me to the miracle of vacuum bleeding. He had converted a fancy surgical pump. I picked up a Harbor Fright rig that works off your shop compressor and never looked back.
Now I actually flush and replace my brake fluid at the recommended intervals instead of waiting until it looks like yesterday's coffee.
Once I know that, I can look, and see how many lines go which ways.
AFAIK, this was a kit, that replaced original lines, though there was some difference in that I was replacing the calipers at the same time, and the PreTech have a different orientation.
Once I know that, I can look, and see how many lines go which ways.
AFAIK, this was a kit, that replaced original lines, though there was some difference in that I was replacing the calipers at the same time, and the PreTech have a different orientation.
Don't you have that attached to you RH handlebar near the grip under the brake fluid reservoir? The only model front brakes without it there I am familiar with goes back to the crap late 70's BMW R100 and earlier BMW models' systems with a cable operated hydraulic front brake Master cylinder under the tank.
The non-ABS rocket can run dual lines directly from the master to the calipers.
The ABS bikes have a single line coming from the master that runs to a spliter under the head stock. From there it's split to each caliper.
To replace and lengthen the stock master to splitter line, which most people would be interested in doing to allow for less tension on that line using non-stock bars, you'd need to come up with a 4 way spliter to replace the stock item which would go something like this:
It's really not a difficult thing, just need to source the parts and have a line built, something none of the usual suspect companies have bothered to do.
Here’s mine although only bought these as they were cheaper than running a splitter in a 3 line system and slightly longer to accommodate the new bars without straining.