Sorry, I should have phrased that better. To install the Speedbleeders, with removing the existing bleeder screw, would that not introduce air into the system? My concern would be then having to go to the dealer to get the ABS portion done.
1K9
No'mo Rocket 4 me
There is a spring loaded valve that allows flow only one way. I have used this method with three bikes... no problem. Change the fluid once a year. Takes minutes. Ahhhh and be careful with the paint, brake fluid eats bike paint.
The bleeder can be installed with out letting air in.
Eric R.
Supercharged
I’m not sure what abs has to do with speedbleeders, or if it changes the way you would bleed the brakes with them installed. My other bikes that I mentioned didn’t have abs. My r3t does so before I get them, I’ll have to check on that.
All I know is that they work great. After installing them, remove the brake reservoir cover, and crack the bleeder loose maybe a quarter turn, and install the tubing and plastic pouch that comes with them onto the bleeder and pump the brake lever while replenishing the reservoir with clean fluid and not let the level get too low so no air is introduced into the system. Once your pouch starts to show clean fluid coming through, top off the reservoir and close it up. You’re done. Then tighten up the speedbleeder.
All I know is that they work great. After installing them, remove the brake reservoir cover, and crack the bleeder loose maybe a quarter turn, and install the tubing and plastic pouch that comes with them onto the bleeder and pump the brake lever while replenishing the reservoir with clean fluid and not let the level get too low so no air is introduced into the system. Once your pouch starts to show clean fluid coming through, top off the reservoir and close it up. You’re done. Then tighten up the speedbleeder.
FE_rex
Bob Wills is still the King
THe y re like a normal bleeder screw tih a one way valve once they are open.
Not Rick, but I got them on my roadking, and both vrods. Was able to bleed my ABS hardlys with out any issues or "digital technician" (don't get air in lines). Put hose on speed bleeder to direct brake fluid, crack bleeder, and pump brakes. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in M/C
Only issue, if you have lot of air in lines (rebuilt caliper, hose change etc) you must use a vacuum as the M/C does not not displace enough fluid to build pressure required to pop-off check valve in bleeder
Sizes
Motorcycle Application Chart
Jag
Living Legend
I use the mightvac mv8000 and their dual caliper accessory so you can bleed both front calipers at the same time. I also have speed bleeders and they are the bomb.
You don’t have abs if your bike is a 2008, 2013 it became an option.
Here is how I did mine.
1: level handle bars so master. Cylinder is almost level.
2: leave system sealed, remove bleeders and replace with speed bleeders.
3: hook up the dual caliper hose set up to your calipers and put some vacuum pressure on the system.
4: open master Cylinder
5: stand on the right side of the bike and pump vac with one hand and pour brake fluid into master cylinder at the same time.
6: once you have flushed out and replaced all the fluid hang the pump on the brake line, close the Master cylinder, then tighten the bleeders with out removing the hose from the calipers.
7: squeeze the brake lever(several times) to pressurize the brakes.
8: compress the brake lever about half way and throw a Ty wrap around it and the grip and let sit overnight.
9: check for leaks the next day.
10: don’t forget the rear brakes.
This how I have done it and works good for me and this is how I will be doing it this weekend
Doing both calipers at the same time is the trick.
Have fun.
You don’t have abs if your bike is a 2008, 2013 it became an option.
Here is how I did mine.
1: level handle bars so master. Cylinder is almost level.
2: leave system sealed, remove bleeders and replace with speed bleeders.
3: hook up the dual caliper hose set up to your calipers and put some vacuum pressure on the system.
4: open master Cylinder
5: stand on the right side of the bike and pump vac with one hand and pour brake fluid into master cylinder at the same time.
6: once you have flushed out and replaced all the fluid hang the pump on the brake line, close the Master cylinder, then tighten the bleeders with out removing the hose from the calipers.
7: squeeze the brake lever(several times) to pressurize the brakes.
8: compress the brake lever about half way and throw a Ty wrap around it and the grip and let sit overnight.
9: check for leaks the next day.
10: don’t forget the rear brakes.
This how I have done it and works good for me and this is how I will be doing it this weekend
Doing both calipers at the same time is the trick.
Have fun.
Jag
Living Legend
Last edited by a moderator:
Navigator
Living Legend
So it seems that the speed bleeders are a must but I'm still undecided on which vacuum bleeder to get. The Mityvac 8000 is about $40 on Amazon but the better one with dual vacuum, whatever that is, is $48 and then a bunch of others in the red cases also are shown in the link. I'm not necessarily concerned about price but rather getting one that will work.
The research continues and I'm in no hurry since I won't be doing the brakes until early spring.
The research continues and I'm in no hurry since I won't be doing the brakes until early spring.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
Mike,
A bleeder is not necessary with the Speed Bleeders.
There is a $10 bag with hose available from Amazon. Plug onto the bleeder and pump the brakes - a one man show!
I'm trying to learn exactly what thread size bleeder is appropriate for our Rockets?
