Brake bleeder recommendation


Just don't buy something with a press sealed body as you cant open and replace seal and O-rings to service or clean it. The other one listed looked good to me.
 
1olbull said:
I be a tad confused here, Mike.
If ya get the bleeder valves all ya need is a hose & bag for a one man operation?!? Correctamundo???
Click to expand...

Your correct Bull I have a similar tool thats a tube with a non return valve on end that i pump into and old jar of used brake fluid, but vacuum is an incredibly powerful force and preloading up the bleed nipple with a vacuum and then cracking it fair hauls the fluid and any air bubbles out. Got to watch the reservoir though as you can empty it in two draws. Being a cheapo I tried the tube/nrv option first then splashed on the vacuum system.

I also use it for testing sensors and EFI relief valves so it get other uses too.
 
I have a vacuum system as well, but shall be happy to try an easier process.
 
1olbull said:
I have a vacuum system as well, but shall be happy to try an easier process.
Click to expand...
After my experience last Thursday helping in a workshop with a vacuum bleeder. :I will stick to "my way" which can be done alone - without a speed bleeder. It's called endless patience.
 
1olbull said:
Me reckons this to be incorrect.
I found a couple places that listed 8mm X 1.25 thread for the Rocket bleeder valve.
Should be here Monday, so we shall soon see. If not Amazon shall return & replace no problema/
Click to expand...


So were they correct fitment? I Imagine you can use short or long but the long is specified for all modern Triumphs besides the 955 Tiger as I suppose shorter ones are less exposed offroad. I doubt they have updated the parts listing since the range of 800 and 1200 Tigers came out. Same for ABS as There must be more than required like their listing details for the BMWs.

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder
Motorcycle Application Chart

Triumph
Front Brakes / Rear Brakes / Clutch *
Early Models
SB3824 / SB3824 / * *
Late Models
SB8125L / SB8125L / * *
'05 Tiger 955
SB8125 / SB8125
 


I couldn't have explained it better myself... This is what I like to use, its all right there in the kit, saves you a ton of time in the long run.

Phoenix Systems V-12 Reverse Brake Bleeder Kit
 

Glad you inquired, Ish as I had forgotten to respond.
They are quite a bit longer in size, but they and OEM the rubber caps fit perfectly.
I even have a spare now . . .
 
1olbull said:
Glad you inquired, Ish as I had forgotten to respond.
They are quite a bit longer in size, but they and OEM the rubber caps fit perfectly.
I even have a spare now . . .
Click to expand...
Thanks, SB8125LL , that may be the 'LL' rather than 'L' meaning extra long.

 
Ishrub said:
Thanks, SB8125LL , that may be the 'LL' rather than 'L' meaning extra long.
Click to expand...






I have figured it out the single 'L' is for long nipple, the 'LL' is for Long nipple AND long stem from thread to hex nut. As these are fairly thin walled that may increase possibility of shearing it with a knock and if it gets a little seized or over tightened.

I read a a great review that said YOU MUST spray a little WD40 in the nipple after use and MUST recap with the rubber cap. Otherwise they quickly corrode inside due to the hygroscopic effect of brake fluid. Once jammed or seized they may still turn a quarter thread but nothing will emerge when brake pumped. If corrosion is bad they will seize in threads and due to thin walls will easily shear, same with over tightening without any corrosion. Then it is Easy Out time.
 
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