Bought my first Triumph ever... an '07 Rocket 3 with 100k on it and charging issues!

[Mike Rocket]

Yep. Threaded and pointed it on the lathe, then cut a 1 1/16" hex on the back with the mill. Worked like a charm. Props to Paul for posting that CAD drawing above.

You done well, it looks like an odd thread to me. I also thought the steel would have to be some sort of tool steel as it looks a tough job to pull that rota. This forum always proves to be fantastic.

 

[cootertwo]

Nice work! That Rocket has a very nice home!

 

[Paul Bryant]

I also thought the steel would have to be some sort of tool steel as it looks a tough job to pull that rota.

Mike, if you was making this tool for a retail workshop and that it was going to be used numerous times you would make this from a decent piece of steel, for a one off use, any old bit of steel would do the job.

 

[Mike Rocket]

Mike, if you was making this tool for a retail workshop and that it was going to be used numerous times you would make this from a decent piece of steel, for a one off use, any old bit of steel would do the job.

Yes true. but i have never pulled off a rota yet so i thought it would be a really tough job. I bought the official puller from triumph just in case i needed it, and it was pretty expensive. I hav'nt used it yet and i hope i do not need to but you never know with these bikes. I also think it fits other Triumphs too. I couldn't make one anyway.

 

[Gregger]

Do I necessarily need to replace the exhaust gaskets since I removed the header? Seems to me like that might seal up again. Also what about the fuel pipe crush washers? Don't really feel like waiting another week to put this thing back together (my local dealer is closed Sun/Mon)?

I would reuse both. Done it many times on other vehicles/bikes including the Rocket.

 

[cootertwo]

And maybe a washer under each header nut will give it a little more squish.

 

[JLeather]

Is it possible to inspect the condition of the trans while I'm taking covers off? I'll be pulling the front cover to check the clutch and replace the detent spring later this week, and I'll be dropping the sump for cleaning as well. Wasn't sure if you could sneak a borescope in to the trans area with one or more of those covers off? I'm especially interested in seeing if this trans was ever updated, what condition the 2nd gear dogs are in, and checking on that snapring between 3rd/4th (?) that I failed in a couple threads and locked up the bike? Can I see any of that?

 

[JLeather]

Two steps forward, one step back. Got the stator in and the cover back on tonight. Got the frame in position and all the engine bolts lightly threaded in place. I need an adapter to be able to put a 1/2" socket on my 1/4" torque wrench to properly torque the 14mm hex "engine adjusters". Decided to put the oil pressure switch back in now that the frame was in place when I managed to give myself a heart attack:

Three times I stopped tightening this thing because it just wouldn't hit the 13 Nm torque listed in the manual. Should have just gone with my gut and stopped when it felt properly tight. Is that torque a misprint or something? Or maybe a PO had already overstressed this thing? Either way I was luckily able to get the broken off part extracted, but not happy to have to wait for a new switch now.

 

[mr hunt]

That tiny little copper wire has enough tensile strength to snap the sender (several of us know that now ) I just get it seated then give a pinch and check it after a ride or 2. Probably don't get anywhere near 13nm and so far no drama's

 

[wjb]

I've done the same thing, going beyond common sense trying to achieve the "right" number on a torque wrench. Glad to see you got the threads out!