Blinker Cancel / Running Lights / Flashing Brake

[vzrDean1800]

STS Auto indicator install
There are some close up pictures of the switch in this thread. Your rite, it does look a lot like the game "operation"!
Dean

 

[Journeyman]

Just push it, in case it is already locked in the direction you are going, to release and then slide. You don't have to hold the button, but I'll see if that works (probably) to make it one motion.

Yeah. The best way, probably, is to hold in the button while sliding the switch making it one motion. works!

 

[RockOn]

Yeah. The best way, probably, is to hold in the button while sliding the switch making it one motion. works!

J, can you tell me how to remove/replace the turn signal indicator bulb from my RPM gauge?

Thanks

 

[barbagris]

J, can you tell me how to remove/replace the turn signal indicator bulb from my RPM gauge?
Thanks

It's a LED - NOT consumer replaceable.

 

[RockOn]

It's a LED - NOT consumer replaceable.

So, does that mean I will have that indicator flashing all the time if I install the signal minder?

 

[barbagris]

So, does that mean I will have that indicator flashing all the time if I install the signal minder?

If you refer to having them as running lights - Yup it'll be on. Fit decent bright running lights instead. Cheaper and more visible. Whilst the device SHOULD cancel the blinkers - I'd want to know!.

In case you've not guessed - I am not a fan of the KISAN thing. It was potentially interesting 20odd years ago - but there is newer, better and often cheaper technology out there. I am a fan of KISS technologies. I'm on the fence re the STS system. I do like their brake solution. I hate tapping into wires.

 

[RockOn]

If you refer to having them as running lights - Yup it'll be on. Fit decent bright running lights instead. Cheaper and more visible. Whilst the device SHOULD cancel the blinkers - I'd want to know!.

In case you've not guessed - I am not a fan of the KISAN thing. It was potentially interesting 20odd years ago - but there is newer, better and often cheaper technology out there. I am a fan of KISS technologies. I'm on the fence re the STS system. I do like their brake solution. I hate tapping into wires.

Okay, thanks for info......I looked at STS.....sheesh, the install guide was enough to scare me off.....

 

[Journeyman]

J, can you tell me how to remove/replace the turn signal indicator bulb from my RPM gauge?

Thanks

I plan on looking into it soon. According to Kisan, if the indicator light on the speedometer flashes it is incandescent and replacing it with LED should remedy the problem. @barbagris says it's already LED and can't be replaced, so I don't know- apparently he does.

Plan B would be to install a connector on the two wires headed to the instrument panel and leave it unplugged. I don't need the indicator light, as I can see the front signals themselves just as easily to confirm that they are working.

Calling on @DEcosse to elaborate on the LED question and the idea of unplugging the light. Here's an old post he put up showing the wiring for a Roadster/Classic, I believe. What is late model? If so, could you still unplug the GW and GR wires leading to the instrument panel?

From @DEcosse .....

One of the members asked me about swapping out the instruments
On the RIII & classic, you can swap to pretty much anything you like (after-market or even some OEM)
However the Touring & Late Model use CANBUS so not much you can do there.

I created a Key that identifies each of the signal wires at the instruments.



A couple of quick notes:
The indicator lamp signals for Neutral, Oil Pressure, Low Fuel and MIL are all active 'low'
The indicator lamp signals for Turns and Hi Beam are active 'high'
The speedo power 'out' is a switched 12V for the speed sensor.
The Alarm LED are LED voltage level signals i.e. connect directly to a bare LED, not 12V-ready LED.

Hope this is useful for anyone who chooses to go that route - thought that I should just post it up for general reference.



Ask me about my Hands-free Key-Less Ignition System Or Headlight Relay Kits

*Note there are two Green/Red wires with completely different functions - just 'Brilliant' Triumph.
(that has been the same regarding those colour designations for ignition power and left turn on just about every Triumph in the Hinckley era)

 

[BinDerSmokDat]

...a single instrument panel light for the blinker (for both left and right) it will flash continuously (see Kisan for explanation). The remedy is to remove/disable the bulb or replace with an LED bulb- my next project.

Or do what I did about 9 years ago on my Classic, place a small piece of foil tape on the glass over the light, problem solved. One of these days i might get around to pulling the bulb...

 

[DEcosse]

As my diagram and the accompanying verbiage states, that is ONLY for the Classic models - that diagram does NOT apply to "late model" i,e, Roadster or Touring. But it's moot anyway.
It would make no difference whether the lamp in the instrument panel was incandescent or LED regardless - the instrument indicator lamps are wired directly in parallel to the circuits for the actual turn signals so the lamp type is moot, they will still receive the same voltage that the actual signals do. (if you look at the diagram on page 20 of their install guide it pretty much shows how each front and rear and indicator are connected together on each side)

Note on their guide page 30:

Q: I have hooked up the Running Light option. And now the dash indicators are on all the time. What’s wrong?
A: The dash indicator bulbs are wired together with the turn signal lamps on your bike, so they will stay on dimly* While using the turn signals, they will indicate properly by flashing brightly
If you do a lot of nighttime riding and the indicators glare bothers you, you can reduce the intensity by replacing dash indicator bulbs with low intensity 12V LED equivalents.
Or you can turn off the running lights altogether.

* I would dispute their use of the word 'dimly' - they are going to be on at normal intensity.

There is nothing you can do at the instrument end to isolate these signals, the ONLY way there is to disconnect them.

Their comment about 'cross-talk' is on older bikes that utilize a single incandescent bulb connected BETWEEN the two sides (no direct ground) - replacing with a single LED or a diode mod will NOT resolve the issue of the indicator lights being on.

If you're going to use the running lights you're pretty much stuck with instrument indicator lights being on.