Battery Draining Issue

[Einar]

So I got a new battery, charged it and it showed 14.4V
Plugged it in the bike and over 24 hrs went down to 13.9V
Is that normal?

That is not normal.

I went through the initial setup process on a Yuasa yesterday, following their instructions to a "T". Added the electrolyte, gave it 20 minutes to empty, gave it 2 hours to absorb, then charged at 1.8 amps for 7.5 hours (they specify 5 to 10 hours at that amperage if using a constant current charger). After giving it the appropriate minimum time after charging to drop in voltage, its open-circuit rest state is now 12.8 volts. That's an actual 100% charge, despite what certain people looking to argue with everyone on the internet might think.

 

[Mongler07]

Hey, at least it's not a oil thread!!!!

 

[Bedifferent]

That is not normal.

I went through the initial setup process on a Yuasa yesterday, following their instructions to a "T". Added the electrolyte, gave it 20 minutes to empty, gave it 2 hours to absorb, then charged at 1.8 amps for 7.5 hours (they specify 5 to 10 hours at that amperage if using a constant current charger). After giving it the appropriate minimum time after charging to drop in voltage, its open-circuit rest state is now 12.8 volts. That's an actual 100% charge, despite what certain people looking to argue with everyone on the internet might think.

Amen!

 

[Mongler07]

There is a rule that as a tradesman i live by.
Code is superseded by the manufacturers specifications.
in other words for this brand of battery the manufacturer says 12.6 to 12.8 is fully charged, might be something to do with the DIY acid filling of the AGM mat. As you can see by my adamant posts and links SHOWING that i am correct in most cases as well as pictures that im not some BSing no experience hack, BUT the statement that AGM's are fully charged by 12.6 is not correct but i should and will from now on specify that it depends on the manufacture. i personally would stay away from a battery i have to fill myself and that delivers less voltage / amp capacity for the same cost i can get locally with a 3 times warranty!
I also keep forgetting this group is a generation or 2 beyond me and its nearly impossible to teach an old dog a new trick. I do not mean any disrespect!

 

[Bedifferent]

Earlier I made a comment in a post saying.."Realistically 12.8 volt is generally what you will see. As far as I'm concerned 12.6 and up is acceptable for starting my GT." Although acceptable on the low end I should not have meant to imply that is anywhere close to desirable. As already mentioned in this thread, the ECU is fussy about 12.6 volts and starting as well as running will be a crap shoot. A friend of mine recently bought a new Triumph 1250 Tiger. Two weeks later he could barely make it around the block without it quiting. The long and short of it is, his Lithium battery was bad and had to be replaced. The dealer said he had seen about 4 of them so far.
My 24 hour resting battery voltage reads 12.94 volts which is what I typicaly want to see. Any battery that draws down below 9 volts on startup is questionable. 9 to 10 volts is considered the norm. The advice for checking for parasitic drain using a multimeter on the milliamp setting should lead you to the suspect circuit. Current is a through the meter reading while voltage is a measurement across the meter terminals.

As for being a dumb ass for replacing my battery every two or three years, I prefer to be proactive rather than stranded someplace with a bike that won't start. Even the best battery warranty has expired by then. It's not like I'm taking my dog or cat to the shelter because I don't want to be bothered with it anymore. My battery is exposed to a wide variation of temperatures as well as 3 to 4 months in the winter on my Optimate. The cost for battery replacement is minimal compared to all the other expenses we suffer with bike ownership. I'll continue to be "dumb" for doing it.

 

[Einar]

As for being a dumb ass for replacing my battery every two or three years, I prefer to be proactive rather than stranded someplace with a bike that won't start. Even the best battery warranty has expired by then. My battery is exposed to a wide variation of temperatures as well as 3 to 4 months in the winter on my Optimate. The cost for battery replacement is minimal compared to all the other expenses we suffer with bike ownership. I'll continue to be "dumb" for doing it.

As a bonus, proactive replacement means having a known good battery that can be used to test with, if issues crop up with the new one. Just have to store it properly and charge on occasion (due to internal loss). I have a car battery that I replaced early and sits around for this purpose. Years later it still shows good when I put a starting load on it for 10 seconds.

 

[Mongler07]

I'll continue to be "dumb" for doing it.

you could at least have the battery load tested for free each fall, replacing it is not dumb... doing it with no idea if its still good is... sorry if i did not make that clear. it would be the same thing as lighting a $20 bill on fire just because it might not be good in 3 years but you did not try and spend it to find out!

 

[TURBO200R4]

There is a rule that as a tradesman i live by.
Code is superseded by the manufacturers specifications.
in other words for this brand of battery the manufacturer says 12.6 to 12.8 is fully charged, might be something to do with the DIY acid filling of the AGM mat. As you can see by my adamant posts and links SHOWING that i am correct in most cases as well as pictures that im not some BSing no experience hack, BUT the statement that AGM's are fully charged by 12.6 is not correct but i should and will from now on specify that it depends on the manufacture. i personally would stay away from a battery i have to fill myself and that delivers less voltage / amp capacity for the same cost i can get locally with a 3 times warranty!
I also keep forgetting this group is a generation or 2 beyond me and its nearly impossible to teach an old dog a new trick. I do not mean any disrespect!

if someone tells me something that might help then i put it the back of my mine and if i ever need it then up it comes.
teaching an old dog a new trick depends on the teacher the teacher that hammers and yells at the old dog or scolds and belittle and trys to shame the dog is not going to get anywhere in teaching.
jmo
when some one tries to ram info down my throat then i do not give any thought to their opinion
sure you mean to disrespect. or maybe it is just my old school attitude coming out.

 

[Mongler07]

if someone tells me something that might help then i put it the back of my mine and if i ever need it then up it comes.
teaching an old dog a new trick depends on the teacher the teacher that hammers and yells at the old dog or scolds and belittle and trys to shame the dog is not going to get anywhere in teaching.
jmo
when some one tries to ram info down my throat then i do not give any thought to their opinion
sure you mean to disrespect. or maybe it is just my old school attitude coming out.

This is about as cordial as I get, especially when I'm told I'm not credible for the correct things I say with data to back it up
Don't like it... Don't be on a motorcycle forum...
This is not a hippy camp fire where we all sing cumbia.
That being said this is also the Internet were snowflakes and jerks are all that appears to be on the screen.

 

[TURBO200R4]

extremely if not impossible for an old school dog to teach a young dog the old school ways
the old school dog just walks away it is not worth the effort he spends with out success.